Ahh, your ok. It happens, especially with fuel lines. Why not ditch the factory return tube and weld the hole shut to give you more room to work?



Yeah 4" is overkill, but will be badass . I've scrapped the side exit idea, thank you for the pictures!

 

I did cut off the factory return tube. Then I drilled the hole out wider and placed the fitting on top of the hole. The problem is that it then places the fitting too close to the large FEED fitting that is bulky and part of the housing. That got in the way of my welding and caused me to slip up.



I'm seriously considering buying a $200 SS catback. Then welding up a 3" downpipe that'll connect to it. The V-band should be easy to bolt up and swap out for the dump tube should I want to turn down the boost and drive around town.

Can also get an inspection that way without using a "guy".

 

I had a t3/t4 lying around and decided to make a new custom oil cap:

 

Sweet cap!

 

Thanks, the ricer in me came out last night and wanted to dress up the engine bay a little.





While imagining driving this POS in the near future.....some day....hopefully.....I remember how crappy the shifter was. It was bad 10 years ago and I'm sure it's 10x's worse now. The return spring is shot to hell. I don't want to miss shift my way down the track. So I thought back to when the GK came out and how the shifter base may be a direct swap. The only thread I could find here:

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...-shifter-base/



Anyone done this? The bases aren't too hard to find now. But I want to make sure the cables bolt up correctly.

 

I swapped from the black shifter base to the yellowish shifter base. You NEED GK/XD cables and the linkage that goes on the top of the transmission. If I remember correctly the arm on top of the transmission is at a slightly different angle on Beta1 vs Beta2's. So on my Beta1 tranny it was in a slight bind, and felt mediocre at best. When I swapped to the GK transmission it felt WAY better. I have a DIY posted on another forum with a bunch of pictures and stuff. Might post it here.

 

Fight back against the ricer Jon!!! LOL.



I have no experience swapping shifter bases. I've had the B&M shifter setup for years.



Best of luck with the swap, let me know how it turns out.

 

I had the B&M at first, then sold it to get an R-Side Advanced. Then sold that when I stopped modding the Tib. Then bought some cheap shifter I can't remember a couple years ago. I'm almost tempted to lengthen and bend it cause I'm tall, and with the seat all the way back, I can barely reach the shifter. The whole ergonomics of the Tib sucks.



I could have sworn someone said the shifter base was a direct swap back when the subject first came up. But since it appears it's by FAR not a direct swap, I'm not going to attempt it. Maybe after everything else is settled down.

 

I think I remember now that it was the Meagan shifter.







Finally got the new fitting. After grinding down the old fitting and rewelding the new one, it's leak free.



So, after all the work and minor headaches of installing a bigass pump and sump, I would say DON'T DO IT!!! Hold off as long as possible. Use a drop in Aeromotive 340lph as long as you can.

At least I should never have to touch my fuel system again.

The hose barely fits under the seat's sheet metal. And the rubber cover is pushed up a little, but should be good to go.

 

I put my stock shifter back after getting tired of busting my knuckles all the time with the drink tray. The megan racing short shifter is not the best imo.