"I recall you having different COP before that needed a plate to secure them, what are the new ones and why the change?"



Before I had used Chrylser 300 coils. The Toyotas are more abundant and newer. They also have built in ignitors which allowed me to also ditch the hard to find Mitsubishi ignitor. The Mitsu ignitor costs $30 alone while I could get these coils for near $30 total.

The Chrysler coils needed an elaborate plate to secure them. These will be secured by one bolt each into the valve cover. Simpler, lighter, smaller, cheaper, newer, internal ignitor. Many reasons to use them.







"Hose coming out of the side of the valve cover? Breather?"



Correct. It goes to the Monster Energy catch can I posted a page or two back.









"Fuel rail. Interchangeable from another vehicle or did you have a piece of rail stock bored to our injector spacing?"



I had it made by a local shop here, Henderson Performance. He did a great job and super cheap. I don't have a Tig to do aluminum.

 

Year and model the coils came out of? Or p/n, can't zoom in far enough to read it clearly.

 

1zz-fe coils

look for 2002 corolla



Here's a bit of info on em



http://m.miataturbo.net/showthread.p...704&styleid=22

 

thanks Faith

 

Yea, theres slight variances in the tubes and lengths in various engine models but they should almost all work. I would pick them up locally so you could just place them in ur engine to try them out.



The o2 is taking its dear sweet time to get here even via priority mail, but once I get it and tweak the map a little, I'll take it to my local tuner for him to work on and dyno.





So how many of you a**holes are shocked that I've stuck with it this many weeks in a row?

 

Something else I'm working on, although not a priority, is a trim ring for the exhaust pipe.





I've come up with 3 pretty basic designs. Shouldn't cost me much to send the file to CNC.













And then the most badass one ever! lol

 

Awesome work Jon! Better start using zip-ties to secure all vacuum lines, especially the one on the wastegate! Once you go over 25 PSI they start popping off lol. I've always wanted to run the exhaust out the bumper, my side exit comes out just behind the front tire - Jealous! My boost piping and oil cooler lines are in the way now so oh well.



Are you running an EGT gauge? How much boost are you planning to run?

 

I've got plenty of fuel hose clamps. They're mini t-bolt clamps. I haven't really gotten around to securing everything yet, but maybe today.



It was quite a pain getting the exhaust to line up in the hole I made in the bumper. Even after test fitting and quick tacks, it's still 1/4" off.



I'm not running an egt. I'm going to let the tuner and car decide where we stop. I'm still on the walbro 255 and 60-1, so I suspect somewhere around 400-450whp. The new fuel system shouldn't be too hard to install, but I'm going to do it right when I get there.

 

I keep pondering about when I want to upgrade my Haltech, but their Platinum has been out for quite some time. Plus, my E6K will only run a 3 bar sensor. Turns out, Haltech is expecting to release the Elite soon:



http://www.haltech.com/new-haltech-elite-series-ecus/



Has all the latest features of modern tuning.

 

Are you sure there is no option to run the 5 bar sensor? I'm running the E6X and have menu options in the drop down box under my fuel setup for a 5 bar sensor. It changes the load cells at the top of my maps and is good for 58 PSI lol.



I've been contemplating purchasing the sensor, but it is $300.00...



At 30 PSI currently...