Nice axles Jon, but I don't know why you invested in them. I've never broken one. Guess it doesn't hurt to be over-prepared.



Rather than hi-jack this build thread, I'm posting updates about my car in my old thread: https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...25#entry701425

 

I planned to compete, and my mentality is to replace anything I feel can be a weak link. The last time I ran this car, I was always chasing down broken items because I thought "It'll hold", or "That'll never break anytime soon". When I'm racing, the last thing I want to do is replace an axle between runs. That's also why I welded up my entire IC piping. Even with t-bolt clamps, I was blowing the pipes off.



There have been a few broken axles around here. Not sure why yours is holding up. Do you have an LSD? Might help with both alxes doing the work rather than one.

 

So the truth is.....



Swapped in the larger injectors and the car wouldn't start. I tried messing around with the map but the difference is too great. I also found that I had a major oil leak. One I know is coming from the oil feed to the turbo. The other, and it's really going to piss me off if it is, may be coming from the oil pan. I have had tons of bad luck with that gasket, no matter how flat I try to get the pan. I use the black permatex, but maybe I should try something else.

To diagnose the oil leak, I need to swap back to the 750cc's and get it started again.





That, got me discouraged again, so I let it all sit, again. I'm trying my best to get back to it.

 

ugh oil pan leaks SUCK. they piss me off every damn time.



almost there brotha. dont give up

 

I understand about the axles, and yes I have an LSD (quaife). I also think I've been lucky not to have broken one...



I've got the ID2000 injectors (rated for 2250cc at 43.5 PSI) and I was able to get the car to run on 93 octane after I had swapped back from the stock ECU and injectors for emissions (have to do that every two years).



Are you trying to run the car on pump gas still? I thought you had injectors of a similar size, like 2500cc or something, if so I could share my fuel map with you to try and help you get her going? I know at idle my injector ms setting is around .700-.750 with 93 octane and .850 with E85 (this is with the ID2000 injectors installed).



I use the extreme high temp permatex (copper). I'm sure you used a thorough amount of brake cleaner on a clean cloth to ensure the block an pan sealing areas were immaculate? Then let it set at least 24 hours after torquing before adding oil?



You'll find the weak link will be the clutch and transmission once you start putting down near 500 whp... I need to find a twin disc, ACT won't make one.



Don't give up!

 

I bought 220lb/2433cc from Southbay. I'm sure if I tinkered with it a bit, I could eventually get them idling, but these days I no longer have that kind of time, or patience. Besides, the guy that I'm gonna use to tune it would rather do it all himself. I've just got to get the car to him without oil leaks. lol



You did the push clutch swap right? I think after switching to an Eclipse style clutch, someone out there would be willing to build a multi-plate custom piece. Probably won't cost more than $2k. I know a Honda friend of mine mentioned a manufacturer that would. I'll try to get that name.



I didn't try the copper Permatex. I looked at it and wondered what the difference was. The packaging didn't say.

Have you heard of Hondabond? That stuff is supposed to be the best gasket sealant out there and may be a bit overkill for the oil pan, but I'll deal with that later. For now, I want the piece of mind that it won't leak.



I really don't want to give up on the car. I still love it, and I'd rather drive it than any other car I've had. It's just taking a lot of work to get her back on the road.

 

you mean like....this?







im sure itll have to be adapted to work but its the same clutch that the push conversion uses. the flywheel would have to be machined to work with ours i bet but hey, its a start

 

I was actually just looking at the potential push style clutches and ACT has a twin disk for the N/A eclipse/talon. It's about a grand though.

 

I could'nt even get an idle with 1000cc's!?.. ..ps..Hondabond is honda's equivelent to the right stuff http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-99070.../dp/B000HBM6PE

 

Good call on the right stuff regit, I was going to mention that!



I had called ACT and spoke with the sales rep. that helped me get my custom pressure plate built. He sent a note to the engineering department and they responded that they had no interest in manufacturing a twin disc for our application. Below is the exact response I received:



Tyler,



I apologize for the delay.



Yes , we have been busy but we try to get answers as quickly as possible.



Unfortunately our engineering department are not developing a twin disc for the Tiburon and at this time, have no plans in developing one. I will keep your request in our folder for future reference if we do decide to pursue a twin disc for your application.



Below is the engineering department response.



โ€œAt this time we are not interested in developing a 7.25โ€ twin disc for Hyundai Tiburon. We also do not sell our 7.25โ€ components in clutch packs the way that Tilton or AP Racing does. Our 7.25โ€ units are meant to be used with our flywheel only; there are just too many factors to have someone else manufacture it including FEA (Finite Element Analysis). Unfortunately we just donโ€™t offer a 7.25โ€ flywheel for the Tiburon.โ€



Thank you,



Dean Williams

Customer Support Supervisor

Advanced Clutch Technology





He also said a custom manufactured twin disc setup would definitely be upwards of $2-3,000...





Good call on the link faith, I'll have to give Clutchmasters a call to get some specs. If all we need is a flywheel, that should be pretty do-able by a machine shop. We could either retrofit our current fidanzas or machine the wheel that comes with the twin disc setup and rob the ring gear from our fidanzas for it (if the diameter, pitch and tooth count are different).



The copper RTV is the crazy high temp stuff, its good to something around 700F. I actually used it to seal the coolant fittings that thread into the center housing of my turbo (years ago, and its still holding up!).