Looks like that would work fine to me java.

As for buying and installing the gate before tuning to find out if it was my spark map or cam timing. I don't have the money to waste on the dyno confirming that it is/could be the gate, buy one, and then solve the issue and have to re-tune. I might as well spend the money I would have used to confirm the problem on the dyno on the larger/easier to work with gate and call it done. I don't really care personally whether I figured out what the exact problem is/was, as long as in the end after I am tuned it runs well and there is no creep. And installing the 44mm gate will make sure of that hopefully. Sorry if that came off the wrong way, it's just my way of thinking.

Let the car idle for 5 minutes today and no smoke!

 

Java, you should grab the same filter from FP performance as tdonnell did. It has the restrictor already built in it. Than you can just pull the filter out rinse it and re-use.

 

tdonnell - No worries, it didn't come across as bad. wink1.gif When I tune a car for customers like you, I offer free re-hookup so we can simply continue the tuning process where we left off and lose no time (and $). Not every tuner does that. In fact, my shop's owner doesn't know I do that. I bring in good business, though, so he's fine with me offering incentives like free hookup.

tanc - GOOD THING you alluded to! This filter can NOT become too dirty! Either clean or replace it regularly or your turbo will obviously suffer an early demise. I wasn't even thinking in those terms. Nice heads up!

 

Hey guys!

I let it idle in the driveway for a good 5-10 minutes today with the .063" restrictor installed, it did start to smoke but very slightly compared to before. As soon as I drive it (after 1st gear) the smoke goes away. Once I change to the .030" restrictor it may go away entirely. Although I think a major contributor is I back into my driveway and it is at about a 20 degree angle from perfectly level, so the oil in the pan likely covers the oil drain completely, causing it to back up.

It only did it in my driveway when parked on the slant, and once I install a restrictor that is half the size I will likely have completely alleviated that problem since this restrictor made a big difference by itself.

Tomorrow I am going to route my pcv to the catch can, and from there tee into an IM vacuum line. I am just going to run the valve cover vent to the breather in my fender.

Do you guys think it would be okay to put the pcv tee in the line that goes to my BOV? I don't like the idea because there is still a chance of oil getting in the line and possibly the BOV (probably couldn't hurt anything right?) and I don't want that. But the only other decent diameter line to tap into is going to the brake booster and I want that to have a CLEAN vacuum signal to the manifold to ensure the best assistance possible - although with the 12" rotors up front I could deal with a little lost assistance. Any opinions on which line to tee into? Or I could make/buy a distribution block maybe - but would like to get it done tomorrow so preferences/opinions on this are welcome.

Thanks again everyone. smile.gif

Oh and as for cleaning the small filter, every oil change or more often? I will change the oil every 2500-3000 miles (running full synthetic amsoil 10-30).

 

If you are running out of vacuum sources, you really should consider this:

Vacuum Maniifold

This is a fancy one. I managed to get one used. Even with the AIRRAM and all the vacuum sources it has, I still had to use a multitude of tee's. Looked like shite and I was always worried about the tee failing or a line getting pinched or stealing vacuum off of something vital. This solved not only my mechanical worries, but I got to add a little more bling to the engine bay, which is always a plus! fing02.gif Seriously, one of the best 40 bucks I spent to round out my turbo project.

 

Thats interesting, I'm looking for something a bit smaller though, I'll find one somewhere. Thanks for the link!

I would need one with 3/16" or ports instead of 1/8" though, and if I mismatched brass fittings with those it would look like crap. All I NEED are two additional 3/16" ports, so if I could find a block with 3 that would be perfect.

I'll have to do some searching.

 

Tommy's idea is a great one. The only thing I would add is don't run PCV gasses through that manifold. PCV gasses can gunk up things like that over time, which is obviously bad.

Teeing the BOV line is okay as long as you aren't attaching a line that requires flow. If your line requires flow (like an idle air line), it "steals" vacuum from the valve, making it less responsive. If you attach a static device (like a boost gauge, which has pratically no flow in/out), it should be okay.

The only line I usually advise against teeing is the MAP sensor line. The reason is this vacuum signal is absolutely MISSION-CRITICAL, as it's what the EMS is using for determining engine load. Tees are naturally unreliable and can leak, crack, or pop off. Keeping the MAP sensor line as short as possible without any tees keeps the MAP sensor's vacuum signal as crisp, clean and responsive as possible.

 

Well I am thinking of teeing the PCV vacuum line into the BOV line.

I will have a catch can but that doesn't catch everything as most people here likely know.

So is it okay to tee into the BOV line with my PCV valve line? I guess I could try it and see if it delays the valves response, it likely will because there will be less vacuum on that line due to the free flowing PCV.

Only other option is to tee into the brake booster line like I mentioned.

Either way is less than optimal, which is why I initially had it run to a breather.

Any additional thoughts?

Thanks.

And as for the MAP sensor line, NO WAY am I teeing into that with ANYTHING. I totally understand the importance of the cleanest/shortest line running to that sensor. I am curious however, why my vac/boost gauge in the car reads 20 in/hg of vacuum when my MAP reads 11-13. It's odd. When at lower vacuum and under boost they match exactly. I figure it is because the line for the gauge is 1/16" ID, whereas the MAP line is 3/16" diameter??

BTW: Just thought I would let everyone know forcedperformance.com (where I ordered my restrictor/filter) has excellent shipping times, ordered it saturday night and it shipped today!

 

No. Three reasons:

1.) The PCV system isn't static. There's constantly air moving through it. This will reduce, or mostly eliminate the vacuum signal the valve needs to respond.

2.) The check valve in the PCV system will prevent the BOV from seeing positive manifold pressures, which will make it leak boost.

3.) The PCV system has entrained oil in its stream. This can gunk up the BOV.

Give up on the idea of teeing the PCV into anything. Run it as factory with a check-type PCV valve in the vacuum line, and put a breather on the catch can instead of re-routing it back to the pre-turbo intake. This WILL catch all oil coming from the breather!

As for the MAP line, it's reading absolute pressure measured in negative psi. Your gauge is measuring inches of Hg gage, which is another scale entirely. Absolute zero pressure is -14.7 psig = 29.92 in Hg. 11 psi roughly equals 22 inches (note the approximate 1:2 relationship). Note barometric pressure and altitude will impact this reading. As altitude increases, the absolute pressure remains the same, but the gauge is measuring gage pressure (note the differences in spelling). Yes, it's confusing as hell. I didn't make up the terms. I would love to find the person who did and kick him in the nuts! He's probably dead by now.

 

My catch can only has one in and one out, so I cannot use the breather filter at all, the line will come from the pcv valve that is screwed into the valve cover, then go to the catch can, and then from there to the IM to help suck fresh air into the crankcase.

I believe that is what you all told me to do, although the way i have it setup right now with the valve cover vent and pcv ran together, both going into the catch can and then to the breather appears to be working perfectly.

The only option to do it right is to drill/tap another hole in the IM.