Naw, just put the filter on the other catch can port instead routing that back to the pre-turbo intake. Fresh fumes will still get into the crankcase because you didn't tee the vacuum port into the breather port.

So the vacuum side goes like this:

manifold PCV port -> PCV valve -> engine block PCV port

and the breather circuit goes like this:

crankcase breather connection (on valve cover) -> catch can -> breather filter (block off the pre-turbo intake designated for PCV breather)

This way, your PCV system can function as it's supposed to. All will be good, trust me!

 

There is no vacuum port and breather port tee'd together!

So now I don't use a catch can between the pcv and the IM?

I got the valve cover vent circuit down, never had a port designated for it on the piping I made. fing02.gif

Wouldn't a catch can between the pcv and the IM be beneficial to help remove oil from the line before getting into the IM?

My question wasn't how to run the lines, it was where to connect the PCV to a vacuum signal using a tee.

It seems like it needs to go directly into the IM with no tees off it, but I don't have an open port, so maybe I will pull off the IM and drill/tap a few extra holes, that is the most optimal solution, but also the most time consuming.

 

Ah, NOW I see the confusion. No, there is no catch can on the vacuum port. It's not necessary.

The catch can isn't used as a separator. With a HEALTHY engine, the PCV system does oil/air separation just fine itself. It has "catch cans" built into the block's PCV system. The catch can is purely a diagnostic device. If your motor is down on power and you suspect the rings, the can on the breather side can give you an immediate confirmation of that issue by being full of oil.

PCV oil going into the IM is in VERY small amounts! It's not a concern in the least. You should periodically change that $5 PCV check valve (every 15,000 miles is sufficient). That's the only concern there is.

 

Ok, so I should have had the catch can in the valve cover vent port instead.

I was wondering why after 20,000 miles there were only a few drips of oil in the catch can lmao.gif .

So all I need to do now is get some IM gaskets and remove that bish, drill/tap some holes, and throw it back on!

Along with my SECOND removal and modification of the turbo/downpipe/manifold. I am running 1 7/8" wastegate piping for the 44mm gate (same inside diameter piping as the gate since the piping has an OD of 1.875 and it is .065" thick).

It is almost 1/2" larger in diameter than what I have running to my 38mm gate. I am going to try to absolutely minimize any bends necessary to make it fit and flow as freely as possible. I DON'T want any problems with boost creep after this!

 

Yeah, and once you correctly set your ignition timing, you REALLY REALLY won't have creep issues. wink1.gif (sorry, couldn't resist)

Under normal circumstances, even the breather line won't have appreciable oil in it. You only really see oil when your motor is hurting. Otherwise, all you get is some combustion byproducts that have condensed out.

 

Yeah, I hope so, I tore everything apart and am taking the turbo to the performance shop I had order all my lines tomorrow; to confirm the 4 an - 7/16 24 inverted flare fitting he ordered is correct and threads into the turbo oil feed port.

What do you guys normally use to seal the NPT coolant lines? I used thread seal tape initially but I think the heat affected it, maybe a light dab of high temp rtv?

I removed the old gate and ported out the hole to a little under 1.75". The hole is FRIGGIN HUGE. There is NO WAY I am going to have boost creep issues once I get this all done, the hole is about 2/3 the size of the turbo inlet.

My RED 44mm gate shipped out today as well, everything is coming together for a change, I can't wait to run 10 psi with NO creep!

Maybe then I can see what she is really capable of, I have a feeling once I tune it on 10 psi I will be putting near 300 whp to the wheels.

I'm getting anxious! LOL.


Edit: I had a thought today, since the BB turbo gets its quicker spool times because of the decrease in friction over journal bearing style centers, the fact that I have a BB turbo probably contributed to my creep issue because it needed that much less exhaust gas to power it from the reduction in friction.

 

You are still getting the same exhaust volume BB or not. All it effects is the speed of your spool not volume change. BB turbo's don't use "less" exhaust gas than journal type center sections but they use it more efficiently to produce quicker spool times. Interesting through anyhow fing02.gif

 

I went with Earl's adapters, but that's probably overkill. Some threadlocker or high-temp RTV should work just fine. I used Tommy's throttle body cooling loop for the turbo. It provides excellent pressure differential to drive the coolant through the turbo. Make sure you burp the air out well!

I would be pretty surprised if you make 300 wheel at 10 psi on a 2.0 liter. Maybe, but don't hold your breath.

Ball bearings aren't the silver bullet people think they are. Ball bearings don't really buy you but a hundred or two RPM boost threashold, if that. The difference in friction there is VERY VERY small compared with the amount of energy being imparted to your turbine, mainly to drive the compressor.

EDIT - I posted without seeing tanc's thread, as he hadn't posted yet.

tanc - I think tdonnell was saying the amount of WASTE flow (not total exhaust flow) will increase because the turbo doesn't require as much energy to be imparted to it. While technically true, it's a drop in the bucket and won't be noticable.

It's somewhat moot anyway. When tdonnell finally properly optimizes his spark timing, cam timing and fueling, I still think he will find that gate excessive. It will probably show up as boost target overshoot or a slight waiver in boost pressure during the dyno runs.

 

Enthalpy, I respectively disagree with your last statement cool.gif

 

You definitely have the right to disagree. wink1.gif