i weld a bung in the lower part of the oil pan and put the oil temps sensor there
if you want a oil cooler you'll need a sandwich plate made for that,it wl have one inlet and one outlet usually 3/8 NPT or 1/2 NPT
use good hoses, i prefer braided hoses and a decent sized oil cooler
try getting a long type oil cooler (B&M sells those for cheap)

when using sandwich plate oil cooler,be carefull most of them have a noth for the temp regulator function, and the notch doesn't leave much roam for the oil filter O'ring to seal

 

Im hoping to do an oil coil with temp control (or thermostat) in the future also TD so post what you find. I have found kits for a few hundred that seem really nice but Im not gunna jump on anything to quick.

 

I think I am just going to buy the sandwich plate and get some sort of OEM oil cooler from another car, I don't want anything huge, just a little guy that I can fit in the passenger side fog light area next to the IC piping.

For the lines I can get them locally.

Do you guys think that something in the range of 4x6x1" should be enough? I figure every little bit counts.

BTW: My friends forced me to run at the track again last night, humidity was through the roof and it was about 75-80 F outside. 13.2 @ 111 spinning through second on my 215 azenis. It was a good time though. And my friend got a video of both passes so I can post them up hopefully.

 

I'm not a fan of fixing what isn't broken. Put a temp probe in and see if you need one. If you do need one, make sure it's big enough to avoid restricting the oil flow.

 

Hey there Enthalpy, thanks for stopping by!

My oil temp is normally about 250-300 degrees farenheight. If I was steady on it like at a track or something it would rise to 320+ for sure, especially on a hot day. Granted I AM running Royal Purple 20w50 but isn't that a bit high?

What is the acceptable oil temp range?

And if my oil temp sensor is threaded directly into the block will the reading be high? Its also about 3 inches from the turbo downpipe so maybe it's reading higher than actual temps...? LOL.

What are your opinions on this kit?:

http://www.kspec.com/list.php?ac_id=85&ai_id=1633

 

Very sweet tdonnell!, This post is so damn imformative ,and you guys are all awesome with lending your knowledge and widsome! hail.gif I am still learning ,so I will be needing advice soon I imagine lol.. I've been looking into a oil cooler as well ,since my rods turned blue.
Ps :seems like every time I read,I gotta buy a new part?..gone to order an oil filter.... Then read/learn some more fing02.gif

 

No prob. Regit!! That is what forums are all about! This is like the largest turbo thread I have ever seen on rd, and it contains so much valuable info too. I actually have the stanalone that used to be in your orange tib, LOL. Bought it from Gary before he sold you the car I suppose.

While we are on the topic of cooling, I figured I would mention that the coolant in the lines that feed and return the coolant to the turbo boils. I have always known, but never posted it. During operation and after I shut the car off it is boiling in those lines. Should I increase their size? They are 4 an with 5/16" fuel line hose running to the braided lines that are connected to the turbo. I have them coming from the TB feed/returns. I thought about getting a 1.1 bar radiator cap? Or is boiling coolant ok in those lines? I can't see it being ok, might leave residue or something? Funny thing is the car NEVER overheats. I figure it would be normal for the coolant in those lines to boil since the turbo must be 500-1000 farenheight all the time right?

Thanks again guys!

 

coolant.
when i had this issue, I had the engine temperature measured, extra heat to what was desired and thus affected the performance, mechanic, panel workshop modified.

tuning on the ECU to manage heating cooling, make sure all the sensors work.
if the coolant is running low and boiling to burst, standalone ECU should be programmed to shutdown the engine.

bigger fans, heatshield on the manifold and turbo, protecting the radiator.
bonnect vents directly just over the manifold, turbo.

 

The coolant is ONLY boiling in the small feed/return lines to the turbo, not in the radiator or anywhere else. Maybe I should lower the temp at which the cooling fan kicks on?

 

You tapped the coolant lines for the turbo in such a way as to create a pressure drop across the turbo, right? One tap near the outlet and the other near the inlet of the pump? I think we used the throttle body coolant lines for Tommy's setup.

If you have that in place, then boiling coolant isn't a big deal. Idle it longer if you are worried about it, but as long as you aren't shutting down a recently-run turbo, and as long as you are giving yourself at least a minute if you just got off the freeway, you should be fine. Boiling coolant isn't uncommon.