My valve cover breather vents into the atmosphere, so no pressure there.

The last time I checked the pcv it was fine, but I'll pull it off anyway since it only takes a few seconds.

Blow by would mean I would be blowing smoke though right? I mean, the car does cosume some oil, but not too much.

I think it is likely blowby, after all I am running somewhere in the neighborhood of 300+ whp on an 80,000 mile engine. Even though there is no smoke at 15 psi, some pressure must be getting past the rings. Which also means after I get the bottom end built the engine should be more efficient other than the loss of a point of compression since there will be minimal/no blowby thus more pressure in the cylinders = more power.

I guess it would be safe to run the boost control soleniod off the injectors switched high? It is a very small load I would imagine so I guess it will be alright.

Can I hook up the boost control vacuum lines without power to it and just run gate pressure or will it overboost?

Also, would I be better off using stock cams instead of the sr 268's? I have always wondered, it would totally smooth the idle down and make low speed driving much easier, but I think I would lose some top end power.

Thanks guys.

I risked it and added another 2 degrees of timing and the boost only gets to 13 psi now! The car is noticably faster as well, got another 20+ hp out of it for sure.

I also made a little metal bracket out of aluminum that slides over the oil dipstick bore and the top of the stick to prevent it from being pushed out, works perfect. PCV was fine, but I swapped it for a spare anyway.

I need to get on a dyno.

I am at 21 degrees at 7500 @ 10.6 PSI and 16 degrees of advance at 7500 @ 15 psi, but since it isn't hitting 15 any more it is about 18-19 at 13 psi at redline.

Is that too much?

I don't hear any ping or detonation, and the car pulls very smoothly in third up to redline, but it is risky. I need to figure out a way to bolt up my stethescope.

 

just add a breather or catch can to the valve cover vent tube,it keeps dirt out
for the pcv valve i don't use the hyundai valve anymore,i use a valve made to be boosted

i guesstimate 15 psi on a 80k mile engine below 300,more in the 250-280hp range (not whp)

blow bye doesn't mean smoke, i means crank case pressure,if very bad then yes you'll have smoke
did you do a leak down test or at least a compression test?

depends some solenoid do pull a couple of amp,i'd look more at the fuse box or use the injector's 12 volt to trigger a relay

depends on how your boost controler works,some need 12 volts to run the base wastegate pressure

for the cams, try to dial them in,it will smooth the engine out and should make power in the low rpm range,i've dialed in my crower with "turbo" specs" idle is much better,vaccum much higher and i still have nice power up to 75000

in those scenario i use a peice of bailing wire or some zip ties to keep the dipstick down ;-)

timing sounds about right

 

Thanks for all the answers Denis, I appreciate it.

The relay idea sounds like a plan.

I acutally made a little clip out of aluminum that is bent into a "U" shape and slides over the shaft of the dipstick tube and over the base of the plastic dipstick handle. Works great and I don't need to waste a zip tie every time I want to check my oil level, lol.

Damn, I will be impressed with the car if it is this quick with only 250 whp! That just gives me more to look forward to when I get the bottom end built!

And actually, it only creeps to 13 psi now with the additional ignition timing I gave it, and vacuum at idle is about 15 in/hg. (I think that is the correct denomination).

My cam timing has been optimized already if you ask me. I just kept retarding the exhaust cam while leaving the intake cam alone until my afr's got richer (meaning the engine is flowing less air), then I advanced the exhaust cam 2 degrees from there and set it. It did help a bit. The intake cam is very advanced right now, but that is where it needs to be for the engine to flow the most air at redline. Even back when it was n/a, my highest airflow percentages were with the intake cam advanced like 6-8 degrees. I think the intake cam might be a little bit off from the factory, it shouldn't require that much advance.

I think with a bit more tuning I can get the creep to nearly disappear.

 

If your PCV valve is ok, then you're getting blow-by and will make it worse by turning up the boost. If you plug the dipstick, then the air has to push itself out the small ventilation hole. But most likely you may blow some other gasket later like the oil pan seal or valve cover gasket.

You might want to make a larger ventilation hole.

 

Yeah, I'd better not even worry about the boost control solenoid yet. I just want to get it working so it is done, but it can wait.

Maybe I could make another valve cover vent port and put an additional hose off it to the atmosphere.

I need to just get the bottom end done and call it a day, but I don't feel like spending another 1500-2000 right now so as long as she holds up (fingers crossed, lol), I will leave it the way it is for now.

 

in response to the whole dipstick thing I was having the same issue at 10 psi. I ended up replacing the dipstick at the grand total of like $6 dollars from the dealer. Thats the way to go. Never blew out after that.

 

Oh cool supercow!! I'll try that too then!

Ran at the track last night, best time was 12.8 @ 112 mph with a 2.17 60'! Could have gone faster but I have a HUGE wheel hop issue with the drag radials on, I need to make traction bars. I couldn't even get them to start smoking they were hopping so bad, even in the water with the rear set full stiff and the front set full soft w/ 18 and then 23 psi in the fronts. I should theoretically be able to get 1.9-1.8 60' times with radials so that is .6-.8 off my total time so with some ice on the IM and a really good launch/pass I might get 11's on a stock bottom end!!!

This is crazy...

 

I posted this in my water/meth thread, but figured I should throw it in here as well:

Speaking of boost control, in the haltech software for boost control properties, I set the ms of the solenoid (33ms for this solenoid), then the only other option is max boost pressure, does the standalone do everything for me to keep boost at the max level I set it to? That seems much simpler than I thought. The thing that is confusing me is the wastegate duty cycle map and what I am supposed to do with that. It is 2D with rpm and duty cycle as each axis.

From what I read in the instructions, I suppose I need to increase the duty cycle steadily with the increase in engine rpm? But that doesn't make sense does it? Once it reaches full boost it should'nt see extra manifold pressure unless it itself is creating it, not like creep. Sorry if I am confusing people here.

 

Hello again to all my supporters!

I have a quite alarming issue that I just discovered today.

At idle after the car is at operating temperature, the cylinder head outlet that I am using as my oil feed reads 0 oil pressure! At 2000 rpm and up, the pressure is at 20. Can this be correct? That would mean the head has no oil pressure in it at idle? That must be false, otherwise the lifters would collapse and the engine would not run. I am even more worried because after that outlet I have the .030" restrictor that would cause even less oil to get to the turbo!

When I first installed everything, I had a friend crank the engine with the plug out of that oil feed hole, and oil sprayed EVERYWHERE! So I know oil comes out of there at pressure, just alarmed that my gauge reads 0!

I just discovered this when I moved the oil pressure sending unit from the front of the block where the oem sensor was, and teed off the feed line going to my turbo.

Also, there is a bit of side AND end play in the turbo, although I think it was that way when I got it (perhaps this is normal for BB turbos? - I hope so at least).

Any info would be greatly appreciated here! Thanks! smile.gif

 

Zero psi cannot be right. What type of gauge?

This is also the reason I dont like the head for oil feed. Its to variable.