Stewart Warner.

Could the fact that I installed a beta 2 head gasket on the car cause this problem?

Should I relocate my oil feed to the block?

Thanks.

 

is you fedding line for your gauge is kinked?

 

Lex, I don't think he's using a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

tdonnell what I recommend is picking up a cheap oil filled gauge that you can directly thread to the side of the head. Use that and check at idle what it reads. Your sender might be faulty or the gauge might be junk.

If that oil filled gauge reads 0 as well, than you have a problem. I'm not sure if the head gasket from a beta 2 to a beta 1 will mater at all. You can always pull the sender and put a cloth around the hole and crank the motor again and let it run for a sec or 2. Don't burn your hands tongue.gif

If nothing else, go back to the block as your feed source.

Also, BB turbo's do have a little bit of play in them.

 

indeed, try another gauge to be 100% sure
head gasket doesn't make a difference

btw i never liked to fed the turbo from the head,you'r getting oil from the end of the system and it has to pass trough the restrictor in the block deck,it also "leak" more oil from the calibrated check valve/restrictor

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Nice to know my turbo isn't damaged. Good point about the last stop for the oil Denis. What do you mean about "leak" more oil from the calibrated check valve?

I think I am just going to run the oil feed from the stock oil pressure sending unit threads. That is the kind of pressure the .030" restrictor I bought is meant to work with anyway, and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Only thing I am worried about is if it is going to start smoking again?

I have an 18" SS braided -3 an line that I'm not using, so the plan is to thread my 1/8" NPT to -3 an adapter into the stock oil pressure sender threads, then run it up to a bracket and use my other adapter to connect it to the 1/8" NPT tee, and run my oil feed and pressure gauges off of that. I think that is the safest bet.

More than likely the gauge is just a bit off, but I don' think there is supposed to be much pressure up there anyway.

Does 20 psi max after fully warmed up sound correct to you guys, or should it be higher?

And will the additional length for my feed line cause too much of a flow delay to the turbo? I don't think so but would like some confirmation.

I'm off to get it done, beauty of it is it will be easy and FREE!

 

on most beta i came across i usally see about 30 psi at idle when the engine is hot with 10w40 oil

by leak i mean leak ;-)
in the deck of the beta1 block you have a little check valve and restrictor assembly
this device limits oil flow to the head to keep presure lower for the HLA's and to limit oil volume in the head
(more oil mean more windage means less power,more oil in the head also means more oil that can go by the valves seals
now you're adding a turbo to that "calibrated" valve wich in fact with your restrictor means a 0.030" hole more in the system
so basicly if your splitting a hair in half, you're taking away oil wich is needed for the head

btw the 0.030" is mostly used for full oil pressure application aka oil sender hole or oil filter sandwich

 

You only use the restrictor when pulling oil from the block. You don't need one at all with a journal bearing, pulling from the head. You need a much larger restrictor for BB, from the head.

Yea, confusing, which is why you should just pull it from the block! It's cooler and cleaner at the filter.

Get a standard restrictor, and a sandwich plate. They come with two outputs. One for the turbo feed, one for the oil press. sending unit.


Those sending units go out ALL the time. Mine has been dead, and I haven't bothered replacing it.

 

yeah, i took my sending unit out of the car and plugged it with one of the sandwhich plate plugs.

i would recommend the sandwhich plate/restrictor feed.. easier than tapping the block and you are getting the cleanest oil in the system.

 

Thanks for all the repies yet again everyone! I greatly appreciate your help guys!

I finished moving the oil feed to the stock oil pressure sending unit location. Ran my 3 an line from that location up to a tee and have my oil pressure gauge and oil feed to the turbo on the other outlets of the tee. I fabricated a bracket that bolts on the coil mounting studs to hold the tee in place. It came out great! I'll have to take some pics and post them up. My oil pressure at idle is 15-20 at about 220 degrees farenheight oil temp. The pressure steadily rises up to about 70-80 at redline when the oil is hot (those are good numbers correct?) Those readings are with 5w30 Mobil 1 full synthetic though. I am going to change that to Royal Purple 20w50 that I just bought. That should definately raise my oil pressure a bit, plus it's higher quality so...

I also thought about this, having the oil pressure gauge tee'd off with the oil feed means it isn't really reading the actual block oil pressure, since the oil feed to the turbo would be causing a pressure drop.

I want to do an oil cooler, do the sandwich plates have an input and an output in large sizes (8-10 an) and then two smaller 1/8" NPT outlets? That would be perfect.

Also, where do you guys usually put your oil temp senders? I found a plug in the front of the block behind the alternator, that's where I put mine. Only downside is the downpipe cooks the shit out of the wire. I just need to make a heat sheild I guess (I have been somewhat lazy getting to that, lol).

Anyways, thanks again everyone, more input is always welcome! cool.gif

 

even though im not boosted yet...

i have my oil pressure/temp senders at the sandwhich plate...my sandwhich plate has three 1/8 npt holes