Yeah, no signs of a leak anywhere.

I get 11 psi at 3250 rpm so I think my spool is pretty good right?

I'll have to get a nice sheet of 16 gauge stainless and fab up a heat sheild.

 

Or..........

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/produ...ess+Heat+Sheild

 

Wow, nice find Jon.

 

I have this one and it helps greatly.

http://www.dm-spec.com/turboblanket.html

 

I know people who have used both of these with decent results. The blanket can sometimes trap moisture, but it's not a biggie. The steel one obviously provides more bling!

 

WOW, I can't believe this has turned into such a huge thread.

Thanks to everyone for their continued support and knowledge, great idea to make this a sticky! smile.gif Hopefully this can answer many questions for upcoming boosters, lol.

Thanks for the links guys, I have definately been considering doing a turbo bag. The polished stainless shield looks good and is really cheap compared to my local distributors turbo bag, but on the other hand I think a bag would retain more heat than the stainless. I think I am going to go with a turbo bag. Rust isn't an issue for me as I removed the turbine housing from the turbo, taped off all the inlets/outlets and sprayed and baked VHT to the exterior. smile.gif

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-b...ield-Turbo-Bags

Doesn't that seem a bit pricy?

I think I am better off getting the bag that yamaha posted up.

I have to put the car back to NA status with the factory ECU within the next month and a half (thanks to Enthalpy for the easy plug an play harness - should be a breeze!). During the turbo downtime, I plan on getting the turbine housing, manifold, and downpipe ceramic coated. Will the ceramic coating insulate as much heat as a turbo bag? I wouldn't think so. I will probably do the ceramic coating AND a turbo bag, maybe header wrap as well, depending on the heat levels experienced.

Thanks again for all the help and info. everyone!

 

The primary mode of heat transfer at these elevated temps is radiation. Convection (which is what the bag helps with) is definitely there, but I doubt it's that strong. The bag might trap water and rust the housing, not that it's a huge issue. Plus, IMO, the polished stainless shield is sexy as hell!

You are very welcome for the PnP harness!

 

Hopefully 2UNIQ sells me his FAL fan for my offered price, lol.

I'll still have to buy another single one, but I'm sure 1 FAL in addition to the stocker will help significantly.

Got off my ass and connected the boost control solenoid today.

It was much easier to tune it than I thought. You just set the max boost pressure and then adjust the duty cycle to control how much air is allowed to bypass and vent at what RPM.

Damon, I had to increase the duty cycle a bit at lower RPM to help spool the turbo and hold 15 psi below 4000 RPM. The duty cycle drops about 10% after 4000, and then steadily increases and surpasses that value. Although I don't need any more than about 45% duty cycle to hold 15 psi on a 10 psi gate spring. Is the increase of duty cycle at lower speeds correct? I suppose that means the more duty cycle, the more air is bypassed and vented correct? This is why you can only run roughly twice the boost as the spring with a boost control soleniod isn't it! It's all coming together.

Oh, could I make the duty cycle at lower rpm (until about 3000 rpm) 100% to help get more boost at lower RPM? Then let it fall to hold boost at the level I want it, and raise with engine speed in the farther cells?

I also changed my cooling fan kickon temp to 205, and my temp off to 195. Are those temps too low? I suppose the stock cooling fan may be overworked?

Thanks so much everyone! I look forward to your replies. cool.gif

 

Nice, Ty!
The relationship between duty cycle and boost pressure depends on how you plumbed it in. It sounds like you did a good job. I prefer the setup where lower duty cycle = lower boost pressure. This way, in case I lose my solenoid, I don't overboost.

As the engine speed increases, you have two things going on:
1.) More energy available to drive the turbo (which means the wastegate should open more)
2.) More air the engine is ingesting, requiring a higher shaft speed from the turbo (which means the wastegate should close more)

These are obviously contradicting influences, and the exact behavior is dependant on where in the turbo's operating envelope you are falling. Most setups fall in the range where an increase in engine speed requires a wastegate be open more.

Now, about the blip in early RPM, you are pushing the turbo to spool as fast as you can! Assuming you aren't getting surge, this is okay to do. You have to think about the SPEED with which the spool comes on. If you spool INCREDIBLY quickly, the controller might not be able to "catch" it before you overboost and hit fuel cut.

So during spool, the tradeoff is spool vs. overboost. Increase the spool until you have a TAD overboost before it settles in on the correct target, and call it a day. The slight overboost might become worse as the air temps in your area drop in the winter, so beware of that.

As long as you have the fuel cut set correctly, this tuning technique should produce a safe map.

 

Oh, I do have it setup that way. The lower the duty cycle, the lower the boost.

If I set it to 0% duty cycle, it runs gate spring pressure. Sorry if I explained it incorrectly.

What I was trying to get across is increasing the duty cycle at lower RPM to prevent the gate from opening early since the pressure feed to the gate/solenoid comes right off the turbo boost pipe before the front mount. That sounds right right? LOL.

Anyway, I had already figured up my fuel map all the way to 30 psi, and my timing as well, at 30 I think it might be at 0-5 degrees advanced, haha.

The car feels great, I had to add a bit more fuel (It was running 11.09-10.9, I want it a bit safer in the 10.5-10.75 range) once I actually drove it but other than that the power increase of 3 extra pounds is pretty insane!! I might throw the drag radials on her and go to the track on wednesday if the weather is nice.

I also just realized the end on my stethescope is plastic, and the real PITA about it is the probe end is only about 10" long, then it goes to the box with the power/volume adjustment and the headphone jack. But that box is going to have to be mounted in the engine bay! I won't have instantanious volume control unless I maybe buy an extension with volume control in it from radio shack?

About the two step setup Damon, do I use the spare input function and select AUX RPM limit? I don't see exactly how to set up the parameters for a two step or anti lag. I think I might prefer anti lag, that basically keeps the turbo spooled between shifts correct? It does this with loads of fuel and a timing reduction right? Similar to two step?

Tuning is so much fun, lol. Thanks to everyone for making my journey with this car such an enjoyable experience.

And thanks for the quick reply! smile.gif