Just checked my maps and my timing is at 17 degrees advanced at 15 PSI and 7500 rpm.

Is that a little high for 110 degree intake air temps?

It feels completely fine but I thought about taking a degree or two from it at the load points higher than 10 psi to keep it on the safe side.

I also would like to get an EGT probe and gauge, that is a good idea right?

I figure I should be somewhat safer knowing that my EGT is below 1100 degrees, and if it gets any higher, I can back out of it for a while to cool the internals down a bit right?

Thanks guys. smile.gif

 

If I ever wanted to do a Koyo rad., would the koyos for the 01-03's fit?

I couldn't find any listed to fit the 97-99 tibs, but I figured the RD1's and RD2's are so similar that the radiator would work:

http://www.progressiveautoparts.com/...tail?no=711599

Should be getting my single FAL fan from 2UNIQ tomorrow, hopefully I will be able to run the a/c without the car overheating with that installed.

Also, I think I heard one of you mention if I do an oil cooler, I can't just get a core and run feed/return lines to it that will always circulate the oil? Is that true? I guess maybe it could cool the oil too much or something?

And would a pyrometer that peaks at 1200 degrees farenheight be enough? I was thinking I would need one that goes to 1600 for a boosted car, but the 1200 one matches all my other gauges so...

Thanks.

 

Talk to tibbytib about the Koyo, he should know.

About the cooler, if it's an oil/air cooler and you want to constantly feed oil through, then you will wind up OVER-cooling your oil at light load and cold air temps. This is bad times, as it can cause damage to the turbo in the same way boosting a cold motor can. Plus, your mileage will start to suck!

EGT up to 1600 is preferred. 1200 *F isn't enough. 1200 *C is plenty. Are you sure you aren't talking *C?

I can't definitively advise you on the spark timing. I can, however, advise you to use the map that adjusts spark timing with air temp. Start pulling timing at around 130 or so *F, about a degree or two per 10 *F. Do the same with fuel: add fuel with hot temps. This allows your motor to survive intercooler heat soak, for example.

As far as EGT placement, put it as close to the exhaust valve as possible. At least upstream of the turbine, and preferably right up against the head.

As far as what's safe, I have heard 1600 *F is the absolute limit (which maps to ~870 *C). This is pretty honking hot, and I get nervous when I approach anywhere near this temp. However, for the ultimate say in what this should be, consult the turbo manufacturer.

The other limitation on EGT is your exhaust valve. If the owner put a sodium-filled badass exhaust valve set in the drivetrain, then I don't worry about it nearly as much.

 

PM blacktibs on the Koyo. I paid him for mine and it was here in 5 days. It was a good price to from what I remember.

 

Thanks for the info on the Koyo contacts guys. I only plan on getting one if my car continues to overheat with the air conditioning running after I install this FAL fan.

The pyrometer I was looking at was definately 1200 F.

Oh and thanks so much for the info Enthalpy, I definately need to look at those maps and adjust them accordingly to protect the engine!

Just checked my fuel air correction map and it actually starts PULLING fuel at 140+ degrees. That's really bad!! Good thing you told me this stuff.

My ignition correction doesn't start to pull timing until around 150 F, so I will tweak that as well.

Thanks again for all the input guys!

 

Something to be aware of here. Without knock, you SHOULD be pulling fuel with increasing temps to keep the AFR the same. Air gets less dense with increasing temps. To stave off detonation, pull LESS gas and the AFR will go richer. I usually let it go flat above the critical temp. That is usally good enough.

 

Oh!!! DUH. That makes perfect sense.

So I will simply decrease the amount of fuel it pulls past 130 F. Up at about 160-180 I will have no fuel pulled. I get it now.

Thanks.

I haven't driven the car for a week now, I'll have to do a bit of tuning the next time I drive it.

 

Tuning procedures call for tuning the main fuel map once andthen basically not touching it again unless you mod again. If you get crappy drivability when the weather changes (for example), look to your offset maps, mainly the temp offset fueling maps.

 

I put the stock cams back in yesterday in place of the Shark Racing 268's. Car purrs like a kitten now and feels just as fast. I'll have to put it on a dyno and figure out what the power difference is.

Also there is no loss in spool time and below 2000 rpm operation is a lot less surgy. Maybe Corky Bell was right lol.

 

You know those SR cams are the same thing as cash to you right?