I'll just leave it for now, as long as I am not having problems, it is better to have the longest possible spark to optimize fuel ignition/burn.

 

Damn. You have to post up some videos man.

 

i'd say gap the plugs to about 0,030 - 0.035"
then use about 16° of ignition advance (everything calculated (rpm advance and boost retard)

that should wake it up a bit

 

Ok, will do on the plug gaps.

16 degrees advance at what rpm and boost level?

If I put that much advance into it, it will definately spin through second! Haha.

Edit:

Actually, if I shift medium/hard into second NOW, it just lights up the passenger side tire - damn open diff.

I don't think I want to throw any more timing at it until I get the stethescope and dyno time.

The car is wicked fast already so...

 

Changed the cam timing like Enthalpy suggested. Took the exhaust cam from 0 degrees to 4 degrees retarded, leaving the intake cam in the same place. Also gapped the plugs to .032". Car runs EXCELLENT! Can rev it all the way out to 7500 rpm and holds at 14-15 psi. I might try retarding it a BIT more (maybe 2 more degrees). It's more drivable as well, smoother idle, smoother throttle response, decreasing the overlap definately helps in many respects. At this point I think dialing in the ignition timing will rid me of the rest of the minimal creep I have left.

Every time I get on it through a few gears I start laughing hysterically, I just can't help it, it's so satisfying having all this work pay off!

And NO smoke whatsoever after 10 minutes of idling in my driveway getting the idle right after my cam timing change, the PCV to manifold connection must have fixed the problem.

Just want to say thanks so much to everyone for giving me their opinions and knowledge and helping me out, I greatly appreciate it fellas!

cool.gif

 

it means you have two adjustable cam gears, one on the timing belt and one on the chain right?
BTW wich timing belt gear do you have? i came across some that were WAY WAY off

 

I have the SR GIM power gear, the r-side sprocket on the intake cam.

Ran a 13.75 @ 103 tonight with a 2.23 60'. Can definately get a low 13 out of it, the IM was about 170 degrees when I ran it, lol.

Downside is I just toasted the 3rd gear synchro, grinds every time no matter what I do, so... I guess it's time to put the short ratio 1.8L trans in for a while. Should be a good bit faster going from 68 @ 3k in 5th to 60 @ 3k in 5th. What do you all think?

Is it common to damage the 3rd gear syncrho? I was really tired leaving the parking lot we all hang out at and smashed it; I don't think I even got on the clutch when I went to shift into third, wet foot slipped on the pedal, what a dumbass. Anyway I figure I will build the elantra trans and replace all the synchro's / cryo treat the gears.

Downside is the 1.8 I am going to throw in has 135k on it! I wonder how long it will hold up?

I will easily spin through second with that trans. Although the 225 KDW's grip quite well, pretty impressive.

 

a few places say that turbo engines typically run about 20 degrees timing at full boost, including this one:

http://www.sdsefi.com/techign.htm

running n/a, my car runs 30 degrees timing at 3000+ rpm. at 11 psi boost, theres 10 degrees retard, for 20 degrees net at full boost. the car has 8.8 pistons.

edit: about race gas...corky bell says that, in general, an extra 3 octane points support an extra 2 psi boost, everything else remaining the same (p115). this site says the same thing:
http://www.kennebell.net/faq/faq-answers1.htm

 

Hey there, thanks!

I am actually running about 15 at 10 PSI and 7000, and I think 10 at 15 psi at the same rpm.

So I figure it is rather conservative especially for race fuel (98 octane).

I want it that way for now, until I get my stethascope from tanc to listen for detonation/knock/pre-ignition.

Thanks for the good info on octane and boost!

I don't want to up the boost any more than it is now considering it is a stock bottom end, but I probably could, I could also advance the timing farther as well (more than likely), but like I said it is a street tune and I don't want to blow it up, lol.

Put the 1.8L trans in, MAJOR difference. That gear ratio change made a heck of an acceleration difference. Car breaks loose in second just smashing the throttle from a 30 mph roll, it is such an awesome feeling!

It will be in the 12's once I get my two step wired in and get a good 60', no doubt in my mind. Probably will end up trapping near 110. Next step is to get it on a dyno and get her tuned, then go from there.

As long as I can control detonation I can up the boost as much as I want as long as it stays under 400 hp (rods). Has anyone gone past around 300 whp on a stock bottom end? I know Jon did 300 right? Our pistons shouldn't have any problems at that power level should they? I bet I am at or damn near 300 right NOW.

I am going to run 98 octane all the time, what the hell, its only 7.25 per gallon, and I get better mileage. High octane is 3.50, and I don't drive it too much so..

Thanks again!

 

7.25 a gallon? Damn. Maybe do a meth kit along with some premium? Would be a little cheaper and should stay effective.