Perhaps once the gears are made, they'll save the specs and can just ship them out off the shelf rather than having to send in our own gearset.

 

Oh I'm sure they will have all of the data saved in their records. I'm not sure they'll list it on their website, but it would definitely be available...



Got the trans torn down and the Quaife installed. Its ready to go back in the car.



I got the clutch installed and did some test fits, its TIGHT:















Notice how close the cover is to the transmission housing, also the clearance from the clutch fork to the cover:















After some trimming of the radius on the clutch fork:









So there is about 1-2mm of clearance from the clutch cover to the inner face of the trans bell housing (its actually the back side of the casting where the bearing for the pinion gear shaft is installed). I rotated the engine by hand and it doesn't hit, but man it's close. Hopefully when I install the trans that will actually be in the car there will be slightly more clearance (there may be some tolerance between transmissions). Otherwise that nice anodized black cover will get scuffed up!



I'll be installing the trans this upcoming weekend and hopefully driving the car so I can provide feedback.



Oh and the throwout bearing has a good .080"-.100" free play between the trans and pressure plate fingers, perfect. :biggrin:

 

Man that is scary close! There is usually some play in the crank assembly, and maybe some flex of other parts. I hope it's not 1-2mm.... All you can do is keep your ears open and gradually apply the torque.

 

2mm is scary close but should be OK. You'll have to run it up to temperature to know for sure.



2mm crank play is also referred to as crankwalk. Wouldn't THAT be a fun surprise after all the work that's gone on.

 

Gradually apply it, right... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-U4ls6JkLk :biggrin:



Hopefully the holes in the bottom of the bell housing are lined up so I can verify clearance with the trans I'll be running before I start the car. Worst case some of the aluminum gets shaved off. I'd be more concerned about thinning out the trans than the clutch cover, though either would be very disappointing. I suppose I could theoretically have a few thousandths of an inch taken off the mounting flange of the clutch cover where it meets the flywheel to increase the cover to bell-housing clearance. I also figured I could run two of the plates that go between the engine and transmission behind the flywheel. I'll throw it together as is and see if that's something I need to consider.



I can't wait to get it together and do more 4th gear rolling burnouts!

 

As a skeptic I am certain you can and will wait. The French have us beat in this department. Their equivalent expression is "I wait impatiently" which is what we really mean when we state the nearly-universally false "I can't wait".



Pedantry, because I'm just a little tiny bit jealous that you will be doing rolling 4th gear burnouts.

 

 

So I got the transmission installed today and drove the car! I did some additional measurements and test fitting to ensure the input shaft was fully engaged in both discs, it is:











I adjusted the rod on the clutch pedal linkage that comes from the master cylinder to move my engagement point to 2" off the floor (haven't driven it at that adjustment, it was engaging at the mid point earlier today when I was driving it). There is virtually no chatter and engagement is smoother than my single disc ACT. Pedal effort is also reduced with a nice "pop or whoop" feel as you pass the fulcrum point of the pressure plate. I have been driving it as easily as possible to allow for break-in (also shifting a lot). The engine responds to rev-matching a bit better than it used to due to the reduction of rotating mass. I did notice some "squealing" as the clutch engaged earlier today after some moderate use. I'm hoping this is a characteristic of break-in only. I plan to call and speak with Luis at Clutchmasters tomorrow regarding the recommended break-in procedure and whether this is normal or not. Also when I can go WOT :biggrin: .



On a related note, I noticed that the slave cylinder is applying constant pressure to the clutch fork arm. This is causing the TOB to be pressed into the clutch pressure plate fingers all the time (albeit slightly). This must have been what destroyed my old TOB. Is this normal on the push type conversion? I have bled it completely and still have the issue. I plan on making a bracket and installing a spring to pull back the arm and prevent this ASAP (before driving the car again). I certainly don't want the TOB spinning all the time, it will surely fail prematurely if I allow that to happen.



Please post your feedback if you have the push-type conversion.



Thanks.



Side note here is an update on my wheel/tire situation. I'm likely going with these wheels (in bronze): http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/V...-p-156784.html with these tires: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes



Here is a photo of the car with my 16x8 rota grids on it that are a +10 offset:







I also added an additional 20mm spacer to duplicate the maximum amount of stick-out I will experience with the Volk wheels (the spacer is between the wheel and hub in this photo). With these wheels and no spacer there is 1.5" of clearance between the tire and the strut, I plan on reducing that to 0.25" with the correct offset and small spacer if required. This means the new wheel will only stick out about .75" or just under 20mm... I'm going to have to get creative with the fenders (they're already rolled quite a bit) as well as the fender wells. I may need to cut a section of the rear fender well out on the front of the car for turning clearance. I'll obviously weld in a recessed plate to ensure it remains structurally intact and sealed.

 

Spoke to the owner of PAR Engineering a few minutes ago. We had a nice 40 minute conversation. He runs the business himself and seems very legitimate and reliable. It should be a great overall experience. He suggested upgrading the input shaft spline to the new Evo (6-9) 24.9mm 23 tooth vs. using the OEM 22mm 20 tooth shaft. The part of the shaft that goes through the seal is 25mm so it will just fit. I thought it was a great suggestion to increase durability of the input shaft against bending and the clutch splines from stripping out. I'm calling Clutchmasters this morning to see what my options are regarding getting to the larger splines (whether they machine my existing discs or if they can rivet-in new centers).



He will manufacture the gearset and re-use the factory needle roller bearings, shift collars and synchronizers. he will press everything together and ship it back to me ready to install in the transmission case. I'll likely be leaving the individual gear ratios alone and just changing the final drive, however I worry that there may not be substantial room in the trans case for a much larger pinion gear. I'll have to do some measuring.



His gearsets are all shot peened, heat treated, cryo treated and REM finished.



Awesome!

 

If I calculated correctly, that's a 25" tall tire. You're going to have to cut the fenders. I rubbed a little on a 8x22" slick.

If you go with the Toyo R888's, you may find more options. Those Hoosier's are ridiculously overpriced.