tdonnell

Gearset has been installed and is functioning flawlessly!

dmg210

Great stuff, glad to hear some positive news



Have you had chance to drive it? How do the longer ratios feel on the road?

JonGTR

Yea, what does that mean? lol Have you ripped through the gears yet?



Good to hear!

tdonnell

LOL I figured there'd be some disappointment with that simple of a post. I was actually surprised to find the gears aren't much longer than stock, maybe 5-10 mph in each gear. It sounds amazing, but just makes you want to drive fast due to the increased "track car" feel.



I'm in the process of converting it back to "emissions ready" status for the last time. Thank god that after a car is 20 years old you no longer have to get emissions testing done in NH. Problem is that since I've got NH tags and no inspection sticker I'm at risk for being pulled over all the time. Police up here just sit around looking for stuff like that and my car isn't exactly a "sleeper" anymore lol. Until I get this done I won't be driving it much.



I dropped the gear oil after 83 miles just to be safe. I purchased 2 gallons of Neo 75w90 RHD gear oil per my contact at PAR. The stuff seems pretty good, there was some metallic residue on the first drain but that's to be expected. Hardly anything on the magnet.

dmg210

Congrats on getting everything back together, I bet it sounds great when you give it the beans. I picked up my gearbox at the weekend, can't wait to get it installed. Just curious to know what you did with the tob / sleeve. The problem I have is the oem sleeve doesn't fit over the larger input shaft splines... I was thinking of going with a hydraulic tob setup but it may be easier to purchase the clutch fork and bearing from a push-style Tiburon like your setup. Are you using a different throw out bearing with a larger ID?

03tibe85

Did you detail what if any 'mods' you had to do to get everything lined up correctly in the case?

tdonnell

Sorry for the delay of my post, I've been very busy at work of late. dmg210 I just have the push style conversion which has a larger diameter TOB and the larger tube that bolts to the interior of the bell housing to match. If you're making enough power to require a straight cut set, odds are you're going to need to upgrade to a push type clutch. I ended up having to go twin disc to hold the torque.



03tibe85, the only thing I had to do was to get custom shims made. I covered how I measured for clearance earlier in the thread (crush method using solder which I found on a DSM forum).



The next step in my build is to upgrade the turbo manifold from the re-welded/customized OBX to a full-race or other comparable manifold. I'll likely be going with a GTX3076 turbo (possibly GENII with v-band turbine as it can make up to 750 with great response so I don't have much lag). I found some threads on this forum years ago that showed we can adapt a 4g63 manifold to our head pretty easily. I'll either do that or have a flange cut and sent to a fabricator. Or I can get off my a** and build my own manifold lol.



I also need to decide if I'm ever going to install the 275/35/17 Hoosiers on the Volk TE37V wheels I bought. Making them fit will entail some moderate body modifications in the fender area, which is why I'm holding off..



The work never ends...

JonGTR

I would give Full-race a call. They may be able to build you one of their manifolds with the proper flange. I recall them doing custom jobs, and maybe even a Tib.

One of the projects on the backburner is creating a flange drawing for both exhaust and IM. I have access to cad. If that's something they need to proceed, then let me know I can put in some work.

03tibe85

The GTX3076R is what we have on the Race Car. Along with a clone of your CM Twin Disc.



And....a modified EVO 9 manifold. Trust me, its not an easy job to get it to fit unless you have a free standing good drill press. The ports themselves line up pretty well but only one bolt hole lines up but needs to be enlarged to fit the Beta studs. Every other bolt hole needs to be enlarged and moved 3-4mm to get things lined up. It took me about 8hrs total to get the manifold on the head and its a TIGHT fit. Oh and the lower right manifold hole doesn't line up to anything. So you either have to cut it off and use a washer with the stock stud to hold it or do what I did and drill and tap a new hole in the head to match the EVO hole. Just don't do what I did and drill 1mm too far into the head coolant jacket.



I'm really hoping so good sealant will seal up against the stud to prevent coolant leaks.



Next manifold will be a stock location EVO manifold with a Hyundai flange welded on. Would have been the easiest method by far!!

JonGTR

BS Dave! Everyone on NewTib says the EVO manifold works like a charm and makes the best budget build ever.

You NEVER hear about your story over there when they recommend that manifold to everyone.



You can also try sending over an exhaust gasket to some machine shops to see if they'll replicate a flange from it.



I wonder if you purchased a long tubed EVO manifold, and cut off the flange, the tubes would have enough play to shift that extra 1/8"-1/4" to match a Beta flange.