showing what i know so far...

welp, cruise control is in the way. my power steering hose rubs on the front mount. I can turn the hose out of the way, but then the stop pads on the hose connector and the power steering unit will not hit, i don't like that.

we do have roughly 3/4" of a inch of space from the coolant overflow tank. what I am thinking is I can use that room, get it to within 1/4" of the overflow tank. If I can go that far, I will make sure that we can get a 13mm craftsman socket on the farthest inside bolt on the bottom mount. this we'll give hopefully 1/2" more clearance for everyone that was worried about the timing belt.

bringing in the front mount 1/2" closer to the overflow tank I will also have to redo the strut mount to slide that bolt hole over also. doing this will also make us have plenty of room for the cruise control. if we still have problems with the cruise, a adaptor plate will be needed to slide the cruise control module furthur back towards the firewall. not a big deal really, just a single piece of say 10 gauge with four holes in it to move it back 1/2".

I'm thinking the bottom mount needs to be made out of 3/16" or 7ga. , not 10 gauge. strut mount also. I know 1/16" doesn't sound like much but with this it will be.

strikeeagle, I will get pics with measurements tomorrow for you man showing you angles with digital angle finders and pics with tape measures in them.

FYI, the brackets are on my car right now but the cylinder isn't cause of the cruise.

time for a bath and bed, 12.5 hour shifts in a dirty sauna ima stinky ape right now, haha.

 

My power steering hose had been moved to the side for years now, with how much I take my timing belt cover off.

I agree with everything though, as long as it works well. 1/16 should be plenty thick, if you can't flex it by hand, it should be fine.

As for the cruise control adapter, that will NOT work, I've tried it. The cable will no longer connect correctly, it's wierd, but minen is screwed up and may need replaced now because of it.

Get us some pics for what you are talking about!

 

pics of the problems we are facing so far...













I will get at least the strut mount done tonight.

I know the cylinder is not supposed to be mounted on top of the strut mount, but can't get it bolted on right now cause of cruise.

 

One thing, the engine mount side, put the strut on the OTHER side, or if not that, put the bolt through the other way. Gives you much more room.

 

kk, the pics as of right now were mockups. REDZ, would NRG go with nylon locking nuts or is that something we would have to change on our own?

I prefer to use them on anything that deals with vibration and i got the sources at work to get them for me, but I think this is something we could request them to better the product.

time for work, laters.

 

No, they won't, it's a set kit.

I had it on my car for several months, tuning and lots of high speed driving/hard driving, didn't loosen up at all. No worries my man.

 

You should make one for me really fast because I dont have cruise or PS. nana.gif

Cant wait to see these done.

 

I know this is somewhat screwy to mention now, but has anyone looked at using the rather strong airbox bracket on the other side of the engine? It would free up alot of room for hoses, fluid containers, and not risk damage to the timing belt. Of course, the user would have a CAI and it would also require alot of engineering to get the mounts in the proper places.

 

I did consider it when I did the R&D for it, not going to happen. There is no "risk" to the timing belt as is, it'll have even more space when we are done.

 

well, the new flat plate is a no go. moving 1/2" over to the overflow tank still wasn't enough. 5/8" or 3/4" could work but then we are sitting on the overflow tank then.

so, a question for everyone.

I make a new bracket for the strut mount and front mount. the strut mount will have a step bend to bring the height of the cylinder up 1/2" . that will make the front mount of course have to make it 1/2" taller to mate with the other mount so we can keep the same 0 degree angle the cylnder is supposed to work at.

sure wish we could make a adaptor plate to move the cruise back 1/2", then all we would have to worry about is the power steering hose. let me know what you guys think. the new strut plate with the mounting hole moved 1/2" towards the tank will work then.