My Very Own Tib Project
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 1
From: Northwest Arkansas, cue the banjos.
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
Alright, things are really starting to come together now. I finished all of the wiring modifications, which really weren't that bad. I'm always antsy about wiring because I don't know enough about it to be that comfortable. This job was nothing compared to all the work I did on the mustang back in the day, but still, I wasn't excited about toying with my ECU's wiring. I followed the instructions on Loneshark's DIY and it all came out okay, though I may have wired the reverse lamp connector backwards...
The interior is all back in, sans the shifter trim that I still don't have.
Here's the bracket I made for the shifter, first off you can see the bolt pattern followed by the assembled bracket I used. About $15 at home depot and some time with a vise, cut-off tool, and a drill were all that was needed to get this set up. To make your own measurements, set the two aluminum strips in place and then bolt the shifter bracket down, then use a thin drill bit to drill through the holes in the bracket and into the aluminum. Trying to get the two long bolts to align with the bracket by drilling them off of the car is impossible, you've gotta line em' up in there otherwise it won't sit flush and you'll have a lot of wiggle room.
Test fitting everything to make sure it was all flush.
And bam! It fits! I used longer versions of the metal inserts in the shifter bracket to ensure a solid connection, there's absolutely zero play in this system.
I'll hopefully be dropping the engine and tranny in today, wish me luck!
The interior is all back in, sans the shifter trim that I still don't have.
Here's the bracket I made for the shifter, first off you can see the bolt pattern followed by the assembled bracket I used. About $15 at home depot and some time with a vise, cut-off tool, and a drill were all that was needed to get this set up. To make your own measurements, set the two aluminum strips in place and then bolt the shifter bracket down, then use a thin drill bit to drill through the holes in the bracket and into the aluminum. Trying to get the two long bolts to align with the bracket by drilling them off of the car is impossible, you've gotta line em' up in there otherwise it won't sit flush and you'll have a lot of wiggle room.
Test fitting everything to make sure it was all flush.
And bam! It fits! I used longer versions of the metal inserts in the shifter bracket to ensure a solid connection, there's absolutely zero play in this system.
I'll hopefully be dropping the engine and tranny in today, wish me luck!
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 1
From: Northwest Arkansas, cue the banjos.
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
If I'd had a tig welder and more patience I would have made a bad-ass bracket, but I had neither. In the future I may make a couple. One for me, a few for our future auto->manual swappers.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 1
From: Northwest Arkansas, cue the banjos.
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
^^ will do, once the pieces are sourced out the bracket shouldn't cost more than $5 to make, especially if you welded on some nuts instead of using bolts like I did.
Well guys, I almost got the motor in. So close I could taste it.
Apparently, the Beta II roll stopper brackets (aka transmission mounts) don't fit our tibs at all. Normally it's not a big deal, just re-use the Beta I brackets you have and you're set. Only I don't have any Beta I brackets (they have to be from a manual). Fortunately, lilo shark came to my rescue and he's mailing me some from his old transmission, here's to hoping they're the right ones.
Turns out the manifold I bought from Bommello had a crack in it along the inside. Without any other good options I JB-Welded it and it'll have to do until I buy a header.
Well, with all this down-time waiting for the brackets, I got bored and started painting stuff. A few bits and pieces are gonna get done up like the oil pan here:
I'll be sure to give you more pics before I drop it in.
Well guys, I almost got the motor in. So close I could taste it.
Apparently, the Beta II roll stopper brackets (aka transmission mounts) don't fit our tibs at all. Normally it's not a big deal, just re-use the Beta I brackets you have and you're set. Only I don't have any Beta I brackets (they have to be from a manual). Fortunately, lilo shark came to my rescue and he's mailing me some from his old transmission, here's to hoping they're the right ones.
Turns out the manifold I bought from Bommello had a crack in it along the inside. Without any other good options I JB-Welded it and it'll have to do until I buy a header.
Well, with all this down-time waiting for the brackets, I got bored and started painting stuff. A few bits and pieces are gonna get done up like the oil pan here:
I'll be sure to give you more pics before I drop it in.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 786
Likes: 0
From: South Dakota
Vehicle: 2000/Hyundai/Tiburon
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BlueRD2 @ May 20 2009, 04:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Looks good, that manifold pic is confusing idk what im looking at....</div>
You're looking at the back side of the manifold from where it would normally sit on the car. If you look in the top right corner you can see the flange where the gasket goes and mates with the engine block.
Just think of it as taking your manifold off and turning it around in your hands and that's what you are looking at.
You're looking at the back side of the manifold from where it would normally sit on the car. If you look in the top right corner you can see the flange where the gasket goes and mates with the engine block.
Just think of it as taking your manifold off and turning it around in your hands and that's what you are looking at.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 267
Likes: 1
From: Northwest Arkansas, cue the banjos.
Vehicle: 2001 Tiburon 5spd
Looking over Stocker's Auto->Manual Swap I found something really interesting:
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Stocker)</div><div class='quotemain'>If your donor car had cruise control your clutch pedal will have 2 switches on it. The one that is depressed when you push the pedal all the way in gets connected to the harness that used to be on the auto transaxle. That is your neutral safety switch.</div>
I cross-referenced this with loneshark's DIY, where he tells you: <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (loneshark)</div><div class='quotemain'>while you are down there, you can cut the range selector switch off and splice the 2 wires together, numbers 7 and 8 go together, to create a short, that tricks the computer into thinking its in drive</div>
So, the sensor on the clutch pedal needs to connect to wires 7 and 8 of the transaxle range control plug, this lets the car start when the clutch is engaged, and keeps it from starting when she's not. Now, if you're like me, you're not dumb enough to start the car when the clutch is engaged. But, if you don't want to risk it (especially if someone else might be driving your car, heresy as it may be) it would be a good idea to do as stocker did and splice these wires.
Yesterday was pretty much a day of sitting around and spinning my wheels, since I don't have the motor mount brackets yet. I got a few things done here and there, things got painted, things got cleaned....
Noteworthy things were: Got my KJB solid shifter base bushing installed:
And got the delrin shifter bushings in too:
I'm sitting here at the apartment, waiting for my shifter brackets to come in, so I can finally drop the motor in. If and when it gets in, you better expect one hell of an excited update. Today may just be the day...
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Stocker)</div><div class='quotemain'>If your donor car had cruise control your clutch pedal will have 2 switches on it. The one that is depressed when you push the pedal all the way in gets connected to the harness that used to be on the auto transaxle. That is your neutral safety switch.</div>
I cross-referenced this with loneshark's DIY, where he tells you: <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (loneshark)</div><div class='quotemain'>while you are down there, you can cut the range selector switch off and splice the 2 wires together, numbers 7 and 8 go together, to create a short, that tricks the computer into thinking its in drive</div>
So, the sensor on the clutch pedal needs to connect to wires 7 and 8 of the transaxle range control plug, this lets the car start when the clutch is engaged, and keeps it from starting when she's not. Now, if you're like me, you're not dumb enough to start the car when the clutch is engaged. But, if you don't want to risk it (especially if someone else might be driving your car, heresy as it may be) it would be a good idea to do as stocker did and splice these wires.
Yesterday was pretty much a day of sitting around and spinning my wheels, since I don't have the motor mount brackets yet. I got a few things done here and there, things got painted, things got cleaned....
Noteworthy things were: Got my KJB solid shifter base bushing installed:
And got the delrin shifter bushings in too:
I'm sitting here at the apartment, waiting for my shifter brackets to come in, so I can finally drop the motor in. If and when it gets in, you better expect one hell of an excited update. Today may just be the day...