Sr20 Tib ?
everyone will have a different opinion on what to do. it all depends on what your goal is, what your budget is, and what you wanna prove.
to run low 13s, which is a pretty respectable time for a turbo 4cyl. for example: srt4s run ~13.8, Evos run ~13.4, Stis run ~13.2.
if you got your car running in the low to mid 13 range in a tib, you will be doing what 35K+ cars like the EVO and STi can do, which is pretty impressive when you look at it that way.
for a setup like that, your looking to spend around 5000k$ to set up a 'conservative' setup with low compression pistons, and some other failsafes.
the only engine/drivetrain swap that i would consider a point to do, is a EVO swap with the AWD drivetrain.
swapping to another 4 cyl motor would just be a complete waste of time..
with the money it would cost to swap another 4cyl, even a FI 4cyl setup into the tib, you could build up the beta, which has been proven to hold power many times.
i would like to comment on the 1.8L piston/rod setup though. i would NEVER recommend this setup, even though its cheap. with that low of compression (7.1:1) you would have to push much more boost to hit good power levels.
would you rather wear out your 1000$ turbo faster? or get appropriate compression pistons (8.5-9.5:1) and run less boost for 100$ more than the 1.8L piston/rod setup.
to run low 13s, which is a pretty respectable time for a turbo 4cyl. for example: srt4s run ~13.8, Evos run ~13.4, Stis run ~13.2.
if you got your car running in the low to mid 13 range in a tib, you will be doing what 35K+ cars like the EVO and STi can do, which is pretty impressive when you look at it that way.
for a setup like that, your looking to spend around 5000k$ to set up a 'conservative' setup with low compression pistons, and some other failsafes.
the only engine/drivetrain swap that i would consider a point to do, is a EVO swap with the AWD drivetrain.
swapping to another 4 cyl motor would just be a complete waste of time..
with the money it would cost to swap another 4cyl, even a FI 4cyl setup into the tib, you could build up the beta, which has been proven to hold power many times.
i would like to comment on the 1.8L piston/rod setup though. i would NEVER recommend this setup, even though its cheap. with that low of compression (7.1:1) you would have to push much more boost to hit good power levels.
would you rather wear out your 1000$ turbo faster? or get appropriate compression pistons (8.5-9.5:1) and run less boost for 100$ more than the 1.8L piston/rod setup.
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,334
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From: Tampa/St Petersburg
Vehicle: Turbocharged 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
QUOTE (caj)
heh, and at the same time a built SR20 could kick the beta's arse any day of the week. What you folks seem to be forgetting is that just hitting the hp mark isn't the point: driveability at the same horsepower is just as big a deal. Ask java just how driveable his super-high hp beta is, then go ask a skyline owner the same question.
first part of that, with price in mind were comparing a stock sr20 swap and a fully & professionally built beta setup; in which case the sr20 doesn't stand a chance.
And the second part, your comparing a modified FF entry-level sporty coupe and a stock twin-turbo FR supercar that costs 10 times as much, of course the skyline is better.
^^ Single turbo
And the sr20 is in a silvia, but the one we would use for a tib would probably be from a pulsar, which is awd.
Skyline is rb20, rb25, or rb26. Which would be insane in our cars but most likely not even come close to fitting.
And the sr20 is in a silvia, but the one we would use for a tib would probably be from a pulsar, which is awd.
Skyline is rb20, rb25, or rb26. Which would be insane in our cars but most likely not even come close to fitting.
All good info guys.
I am actually hoping to get into the 12's on drag radials with a completely stock bottom end with 78,400 miles on it!
Will be going to the track wednesday and saturday, already borrowed a helmet, lol.
I am actually hoping to get into the 12's on drag radials with a completely stock bottom end with 78,400 miles on it!
Will be going to the track wednesday and saturday, already borrowed a helmet, lol.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
I don't think I came close to putting $5k into my kit. Maybe like $3.5-4k.
But I have done a lot of part swapping since I started back in 02.
Tdonnel, I'd like to see a dyno of your car putting down 300whp. I have the MSD DIS4 and have been getting spark blowout starting at 270whp. I may be putting down a bit more with 3psi more, but it's not as smooth.
Try and get a dyno soon. I'd like to know if you're putting down that much and if it really is possible to do that with stock compression.
But I have done a lot of part swapping since I started back in 02.
Tdonnel, I'd like to see a dyno of your car putting down 300whp. I have the MSD DIS4 and have been getting spark blowout starting at 270whp. I may be putting down a bit more with 3psi more, but it's not as smooth.
Try and get a dyno soon. I'd like to know if you're putting down that much and if it really is possible to do that with stock compression.
the price of the kit will depend alot on what parts you get. if you got good deals, found used parts, etc. you could piece a kit together MUCH cheaper.
but without welding or fab. skills, and not finding a deal, the price can get way up there.
and the price of the turbo, depending on what the user wants varies alot. you can go from like 650$ for an internal gated super 60, or 1500$ for a bigger BB turbo with external gate.
and if a user wants to be able to quickly be OBD II compliant, they might go with a dual fuel rail kit which is much more than going with something like the MS kit. i paid 500$ for my dual fuel rail kit, and 600$ for my emanage with pnp harness, map sensor, and harness's.
theres a ton of variables when putting together a kit that could vary the price as much as 1,500$ or so. only reason i stated 5,000$ is to give people a bit of an idea. some people like to buy the bare minimum to reach a certain goal, and some people may want to over compensate for more power in future,etc.
but without welding or fab. skills, and not finding a deal, the price can get way up there.
and the price of the turbo, depending on what the user wants varies alot. you can go from like 650$ for an internal gated super 60, or 1500$ for a bigger BB turbo with external gate.
and if a user wants to be able to quickly be OBD II compliant, they might go with a dual fuel rail kit which is much more than going with something like the MS kit. i paid 500$ for my dual fuel rail kit, and 600$ for my emanage with pnp harness, map sensor, and harness's.
theres a ton of variables when putting together a kit that could vary the price as much as 1,500$ or so. only reason i stated 5,000$ is to give people a bit of an idea. some people like to buy the bare minimum to reach a certain goal, and some people may want to over compensate for more power in future,etc.


