Ferrea parts alone in the head are $1100. Then there's cams and machine work.



Will probably stick to modifying the suspension and wheels to keep the power down before making more power. No dyno queen here.

 

When I had my oversized Ferrea valves installed the machine shop bored the seat internal diameter to allow for more air passage along with a "mid point" valve job so I didn't break the bank on head work. I still use the Ferrea Springs and locks but with OEM valves, did some mild port and seat blending to remove defects in productions, casting lines were removed but runners remained the same size as I do not possess the tools to calculate flow.



The addition of electronic boost control was the best thing for me being able to plant power to pavement.

 

I don't mind dropping another $400 when building the rest of the head. It's a drop in a larger bucket. I don't want that minor inconvenience to stand in the way of power later down the road.

 

Today, finished wiring cop for a more permanent install. Then finished wiring up gm iat sensor into the intercooler so its hidden. Next will be weld up a dumped exhaust with o2 bungs so I can start tuning. Then tuck away ecu permanently, put the car on a huge diet, and then figure out a wheel/slick combo with traction bars. May start on parachute mount while I'm welding.



I'm hoping to be done by october IFO to debut. If not then, then there's an event here in town in december. Must run mid to high 10's by then.

 

High 10s, that's a lofty goal right off the start.



Power expectations?

 

"Ungodly amount of power" is my expectation. I hit 300whp 10yrs ago, so no sense in hanging around there. I won't put any limits on this car. As I increase boost and either break sh*t or reach some part's limit, it'll get replaced for a better part. I suspect the head to be the first part needing to be upgraded around 450-500hp. Then fuel system behind firewall to tank, then injectors. Then trans/axles.





Tonight's work was removing the Haltech and organizing the harness for permanent mounting under the dash. I also got to work in removing the factory harness.

 

I do not envy your wire adventure but do enjoy watching from the sidelines as this build progresses, it's very educational to see what others add to their build compared to yours.

 

I actually like using the Haltech vs. keeping the factory sensors and harness. The factory ECU uses a lot more safety sensors such as knock, cam, dummy coolant/oil, larger dual coils, etc. All this you don't truly need when using a standalone with gauge outputs built in and newer technology. Once the car is running well and most of the expensive crap is out of the way, I plan to upgrade to the Platinum with a Racepak.

 

Agree. I scrapped my factory harness completely and ran one directly from my standalone, it's cleaner and easier to navigate, I also dropped the knock sensor but kept everything else minus o2 sensors of course as the wide and has replaced it.



A buddy of mine has the Platinum and Racepak and it's a fantastic system, a very good choice for anyone!

 

Over the weekend I was able to yank out the factory harness. I'm not sure it was worth keeping it in tact. Much easier to cut at the firewall and pull both ends. I then fed the haltech harness thru which was easier. However I can't find a path to the spot behind the radio as I had planned to put it. I need to pull out the blower and ducting for this.



I also ordered fittings, a Mac boost control solenoid, and a race seat. I hope to have it all done and ready for tuning by this weekend. At that point, I'll take pics and vids of the finished engine bay with new wiring and cop setup.