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Lower Compression Head Gasket

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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 08:15 PM
  #41  
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QUOTE (tanc @ Nov 30 2006, 07:29 PM)
It is not a band aid. Stock internals can handle max 350whp with a decomp plate all day long.

please explain how the plate itself will make the motor produce more power? all it does is lower the compression so theres more room for tuning issue's that might otherwise blow the motor. it will in no way make the motor itself support more HP.


also, when u use a thicker (or even thinner) gasket then originally designed, the timing of the motor will be effected also. doesnt mean its a bad thing, but definitly something to consider.
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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 09:02 PM
  #42  
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I never said it will make the motor produce more power.

All I said is that it will hold more horsepower properly tuned. Your very right when you say it makes it more efficient for tuning purposes.
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Old Dec 1, 2006 | 07:37 AM
  #43  
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I just feel you would be better in the long run buying low compression pistons you can get them stock bore then they should drop right in. That would save some money, then just hone the cylinders yourself. To me it just seems more reliable to do it the right way the first time.
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #44  
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QUOTE (Denisst99 @ Nov 30 2006, 03:09 PM)
it's a copper head gasket,
it should be used alone,no other gasket are required
BUT, you need to use some kind of sealer on it or you might get some coolant leaks
(some newer copper gacket has silicone o'rings imbedded in them so no sealer required)

btw, it's also a good idea to o'ring the head when using those


just because im curious, what sealer would you recommend and what is the correct way to go about applying it?
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 03:08 PM
  #45  
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you need some coopper coat,spray 2 thick layers of it,let it become almost dry then install the gasket
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 04:11 PM
  #46  
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something like this?

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-11153-4...sol-401612.aspx

2 coats on each side?
should you make sure not to let it hang over into the water channels and cylinder bores? wouldnt it do that anyway a little bit after being compressed?
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:51 PM
  #47  
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yup,something like that,
nah,worst case the "overspray" will be washed or burned away
but you stil lhave to get the head o'ringed
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #48  
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that seems like a pretty big hassle. bringing the head to a machine shop and all. hrmm...
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 04:16 PM
  #49  
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^^^
yep, there is more work involved with this kind...


http://www.scegaskets.com/techtips/top10.html


QUOTE
SCE always recommends using an O-Ring (SCE part # 31542) and an anaerobic sealer such as Hylomar (SCE part # 81998) or Copper Coat.



http://www.scegaskets.com/techtips/engineprep.html


QUOTE
A. Clean flat surfaces are essential to seal any performance engine. A solvent such as brake cleaner should be used on the block and head prior to assembly.

B. The new SCE TITAN self sealing copper head gasket requires no sealant, however if you are using a conventional copper head gasket we recommend an anaerobic sealer such as Hylomar or copper coat. Always allow the sealant to tack up for 15 to 20 minutes before assembly.

C. O-rings are generally required to make a copper gasket system work to potential. SCE sells stainless steel O-ring wire in a kit to do one V-8 engine or spools for the engine builder. SCE stainless steel O-ring wire is preferred over copper wire that can flatten or dent to form a leak path.

D. O-ring grooves may be cut in either the block or cylinder head. When using copper head gaskets thinner than .050, O-ring height should be no more than 25% of gasket thickness. For instance, the proper dimensions for an .043 thick gasket using .041 wire would be; a .038 to .040 groove width (provides a .001 interference fit), and a .032 groove depth (leaves .008-.010 of the wire protruding above the deck). This machining can be done at most high performance machine shops

E. When receiver grooves are necessary, alignment of O-ring and receiver groove is critical, as is the depth and width of the receiver groove. Generally receiver groove depth should be 75% of the O-ring protrusion and the receiver groove should be 1.5 times the wire width. Example: If the O-ring is .041 wide and .015 above the deck; receiver groove should be .012 deep and .060 wide.

F. While the machining of O-ring and receiver grooves must be done by a machinist, the installation of the O-ring wire can be done by anyone, using common hand tools. When tapping O-ring wire into the groove, use care to avoid denting the wire. SCE provides an O-ring installation kit, (SCE PART #31542) which includes instructions, an installation tool and O-ring wire. When cutting stainless O-ring wire, file the ends square to provide the tightest possible seal.

G. Head gaskets should be re-torqued after initial run-in regardless of type, solid copper or composition. SCE recommends using factory torque specs. Do not over torque. Allow the heads and block to cool for accurate torque readings. Always use a torque wrench and have it calibrated often. Premium grade head bolts or studs, with hardened washers are recommended.

H. SCE copper gaskets can be reused 4 to 5 times simply by cleaning in common solvent. DO NOT use a torch or household oven to re-anneal copper gaskets. The annealing process requires special vacuum ovens to achieve satisfactory results.
These installation tips may seem like a lot of information for head gaskets, however, installing a copper head gasket and O-ring system is really easier than degreeing a cam, and just as important.



now, if someone is thinking just to sandwhich the sce headgasket between two oem ones... well that's another issue and may not work well, overall
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 04:33 PM
  #50  
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well poo.

that almost does away with the cost and ease of this over some nice low comp pistons.

is it just because copper is softer than the usual steel head gasket material?
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