Yeah, you're right. I did some test fitting today with all 4 rota's on the car and it was hilarious!



I just ordered the same Volk wheels but in a 17x9.5 size with a +30mm offset (after they contacted their supplier in Japan they realized they don't manufacture a 10" wide wheel in the 4x114.3 bolt pattern). I'll likely be going with the 275/35/17 Hoosier R7 tires (I'll probably be able to get them for $300/ea.). Another option is the R888 that you suggested, but I'll only be able to get a 245/40/17. This will reduce tread width by 0.8-1", I think it would be a better street tire and would probably fit easier due to the stretch that there would be with a 9.5" wheel. But I want to go for maximum traction and road holding ability with this wheel and tire set. I've got two other sets of wheels that I can use for the street. This wheel tire combo vs. the 295 with the 10.0" wheel should be easier to fit, the 295 was



Here are some photos of a 16x8 Rota Grid that has a +10mm offset and a 20mm spacer (effectively making it a -10mm offset):















Keep in mind a 295/35/17 is 25.1" tall, the tires in these photos are only 24.1" tall (that was when they were new, and they are quite worn at this point). The 275/35/17's are only 24.6" tall (which will still be a squeeze but will require a LOT less cutting/rolling etc.). I figure I might end up having to go with fender flares. I'm worried it might look terrible. A good friend of mine is quite good at body work and can help me out with those modifications and maybe paint the whole car after .



In case you were wondering the fenders have already been pulled out at least 1" from stock (probably closer to 1.5"). They did start to wrinkle a bit on the front . I did that years ago...

 

Have you contact Albins about a gearset?

http://www.albinsgear.com.au/





Also try: http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/

 

No need, I've already shipped out my gears to PAR. They've received them and are working on production at this time.

 

Have you considered Federal 595 RS-R tires? They are R compund tires and have good reviews for a relatively cheap tire. This tire runs wider than others.

http://www.onlinetires.com/products/...g+94w+bsw.html

 

I appreciate the suggestion, I've never seen or heard of that tire before. I think 25" is too tall though. Mid 24's are about as high as I can go without major cutting. Though I may need to go that route anyway.

 

So if/when I decide to upgrade the turbo, I think I'm going to go with a manifold similar to (if not the same as) this one:



http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...-radiator.html



Here is a thread that I started years ago:



https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...-similarities/



It appears the ports pretty much line up perfectly. If all that is required is some modification to the mounting holes that is gravy. I'll be on my way to having one of the highest quality exhaust manifolds that is available.



Here is the turbo I'm interested in:



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...de=GRT-TBO-102



With this exhaust housing:



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...de=ATP-HSG-009



Should be good for at least 650whp and still offer decent spool time according to this dyno graph:



http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics...-VEVO-107A.gif



What does everyone think?

 

If you can weld, why not build your own manifold? If not, then I would look around to having someone locally build you one. They should be able to make you something for less. Although, the main reason is that you want to make absolutely sure that the turbo housing will fit where that manifold locates it. My 60-1 sits very close to the block and leaves little room for my radiator. I'm not saying you can't use that manifold, but I would make absolutely sure it'll work for you before making a $1400 mistake. Maybe see what their return policy is. Also, they build custom parts all the time, maybe they can adjust one for you, or leave the mounting holes out so you can drill them yourself?

 

Yes I can weld, in fact I've customized and repaired the OBX manifold I'm still running many times. I've thought about making my own, it would be cheaper and I could get the perfect fitment and wastegate integration. The only issue I'll have is the flange that bolts to the head. I'll have to get one water-jet cut.



I know they make custom stuff, I was thinking of asking if they could use a flange that would have made so it will bolt right up. I was also thinking about clearances. If I go with the GTX turbo I listed, the compressor housing will be larger. My 3071 is about 1/4" from the block but around 1/2 - 3/4" from the Koyo. I'm not sure of the dimensions of the standard housing on a GTX3582, I know I can get the same compressor housing I currently have on it. I just wonder how much efficiency I would lose by going with the smaller compressor housing.



I figure it wouldn't be easy, but if I needed to I could move the radiator out some (to the front of the car) for clearance on a larger turbo.

 

I just went back and read this. Are you saying these are not manufactured gearsets? Is he re-using factory sets and shot-peening, cryo...........?



If the materials and manufacturing they use to produce the NEW gears are of high quality, then there shouldn't be any need to do any of this post-production process. What gives?

 

The better you treat your parts for strength and hardness as desired, the better they will serve - new or used. Seems obvious?