Low Boost On Stock Compression
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Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
I have been considering that Eric, but I just don't feel like running the wiring/lines through the firewall right now, maybe in the summer or after I have had a few weeks of R&R from working on the car. Plus the smell of 98 octane is sooo sweet smile.gif .
My IM gets hot as hell! It will literally burn your hand if you touch it more than a second or two after I get done letting the car idle for a minute at a stop.
I need to do a few pulls, stop, and instantly pop the hood and see how hot it is. My IAT is about 3 inches from the TB in the boost piping and it reads about 25 degrees cooler than ambient temp on average, unless I let it get heat soaked at idle. When I was at the track the car sat for about 1 hour before I ran it with the hood closed, and my IAT was like 150, lol.
I was going to datalog my second run to see how much the temp goes down among other things, but I did't get to run twice due to the rain.
Ooops, 25 degrees WARMER than ambient temp, my bad.
You all can see pics here:
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=27142
My IM gets hot as hell! It will literally burn your hand if you touch it more than a second or two after I get done letting the car idle for a minute at a stop.
I need to do a few pulls, stop, and instantly pop the hood and see how hot it is. My IAT is about 3 inches from the TB in the boost piping and it reads about 25 degrees cooler than ambient temp on average, unless I let it get heat soaked at idle. When I was at the track the car sat for about 1 hour before I ran it with the hood closed, and my IAT was like 150, lol.
I was going to datalog my second run to see how much the temp goes down among other things, but I did't get to run twice due to the rain.
Ooops, 25 degrees WARMER than ambient temp, my bad.
You all can see pics here:
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=27142
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Hey there again everyone!
DTN brought up a good question, will I have a boost leak because my IAC intake is run to a breather filter?
Should I plumb the line into my boost piping?
Haven't noticed anything leaking but how could I running open gate, lol.
Thanks.
DTN brought up a good question, will I have a boost leak because my IAC intake is run to a breather filter?
Should I plumb the line into my boost piping?
Haven't noticed anything leaking but how could I running open gate, lol.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Yeah, I think I will route it to the boost piping just to be sure though. Just to rule it out and get it right.
Nobody else has done a breather on it before? Always into the boost piping?
Nobody else has done a breather on it before? Always into the boost piping?
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
it depends on how your standalone is operating the idle valve
if you want to be 100% sure hook it up right before the TB
or to d oa quick test, place hose (3/4" diameter) long enough to reach inside the car and do a boosted pull whilea body is holding the hose
if you have a leak you'll find it very quickly lmao.gif
if you want to be 100% sure hook it up right before the TB
or to d oa quick test, place hose (3/4" diameter) long enough to reach inside the car and do a boosted pull whilea body is holding the hose
if you have a leak you'll find it very quickly lmao.gif
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2006
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
So much for the title,
Just ordered a small green 5.8 psi spring to throw in the gate along with the big red 10.15 psi spring. This will put the gate at 16 psi. I just figured if I am creeping to 14 and have hit 16 before why the hell not get RID of that creep and have more power down low! I tried advancing the timing 2 more degrees across the board for 1 pull and it didn't help the creep at all. I also found the cam timing sweet spot so I know that is optimized (I retarded the exhaust cam until I lost a bit of power and my a/f got richer, then advanced it 2 degrees from there) the car feels great! I figure the lowest amount of boost I can run with my current setup without creep is 14 psi and I like to push the limits so why not 16, what the hell right? If it blows up I'll put the stock 2.0 in it to pass emissions then pull it back out and build it.
Only question I have is can the stock head bolts take it? I have the beta 2 head gasket with the head recently milled and combustion chambers worked/smoothed.
I figure it's got to be at least 300 whp at that level of boost right?
Do you guys think it will hold up? I might be getting a little worried 02.gif
Just ordered my drag radials!
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...DR&i1_Qty=2
225/50/15, going to remove the BBK and install all 4 stock wheels with these up front, they are a good 10 lbs lighter than the heavy ass rota's I ran on last time.
Anyone got any info for me on wiring in and setting up the two-step function on the e6x? One wire to power, one to ground, and one to a switch to ground? I'm not sure even though damon has told me about 3 times, lol.
Needless to say I am going to have my friend trailer the car to the track maybe this weekend if I get the WG spring and the tires! I'm shooting for high 12's!!!
Just ordered a small green 5.8 psi spring to throw in the gate along with the big red 10.15 psi spring. This will put the gate at 16 psi. I just figured if I am creeping to 14 and have hit 16 before why the hell not get RID of that creep and have more power down low! I tried advancing the timing 2 more degrees across the board for 1 pull and it didn't help the creep at all. I also found the cam timing sweet spot so I know that is optimized (I retarded the exhaust cam until I lost a bit of power and my a/f got richer, then advanced it 2 degrees from there) the car feels great! I figure the lowest amount of boost I can run with my current setup without creep is 14 psi and I like to push the limits so why not 16, what the hell right? If it blows up I'll put the stock 2.0 in it to pass emissions then pull it back out and build it.
Only question I have is can the stock head bolts take it? I have the beta 2 head gasket with the head recently milled and combustion chambers worked/smoothed.
I figure it's got to be at least 300 whp at that level of boost right?
Do you guys think it will hold up? I might be getting a little worried 02.gif
Just ordered my drag radials!
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...DR&i1_Qty=2
225/50/15, going to remove the BBK and install all 4 stock wheels with these up front, they are a good 10 lbs lighter than the heavy ass rota's I ran on last time.
Anyone got any info for me on wiring in and setting up the two-step function on the e6x? One wire to power, one to ground, and one to a switch to ground? I'm not sure even though damon has told me about 3 times, lol.
Needless to say I am going to have my friend trailer the car to the track maybe this weekend if I get the WG spring and the tires! I'm shooting for high 12's!!!


