tdonnell

I'm almost boosted!!! Probably by the end of the day tomorrow I will have it running. All that is left is to pull the trans, swap the clutch and friction surface, install the trans, and bolt everything up (manifold, turbo, etc.). Got the bung welded in the pan and bolted back up with a fresh coat of paint on her. I still have to fabricate the rest of the exhaust but that can wait, hehe. Open downpipe and wastegate!

As far as psi numbers go, I have a rather large turbo right? This would mean that 15 psi for you guys might mean I would be flowing the same amount of air at 12? Just a guess, but is there truth to that?

And as far as break in goes, should I boost at all for the first 500 miles? I figure I can go easy on the clutch and barely boost it, but once that 500 mile marker is gone I can hit the full 6 lbs?

Thanks!

Denisst99

larger turbo wil lflow more air for the same psi the na smaller turbo
IE: a t3/t4 like your will let's say flow enough air for 300whp about 16psi while a 13t (alpine kits) willl flow air for about 220whp at the same 16 psi

(those numbers are fictive,just to give you an idea)

also, heads, cam, exhaust,interccooler wil lall play a role in that,remeber,more psi doesn't mean more power

for the break in, is the engine new?
on my car, i ran it quite rought since day one,no problems, no oil consumption,
i even have problem with some customer babying too much their new engine today's rings are quite hard and need soem load to seal

i'd say, bring it up to temp, doi a few easy road test to see that everything is fine,then start doing a few pulls with boost

start at about 10 psi, and work your way up from there,it'S easier to tune a car at 10 psiu then at 20 psi cool.gif

tdonnell

Hey now! I'm still on stock compression! LOL.

I got the turbo installed and everything made except the back section of the exhaust which I will make tomorrow.

Downside is that I have boost creep like a mother f-er because the gate is at a 90 degree angle and it is only really gating off a single cylinder.

I had worries about this, damn.

Sounds legit right, the gate even fully open can't vent enough air to prevent additional boost. The other 3 cylinders just continue to spin the turbo and boost rises further. My fuel cut is at 9 psi with a 5.8 psi spring in the gate and I am hitting fuel cut as early as 4k rpm. I can spool this baby before 3k rpm though!

Sad thing is I can't go above 5k rpm at WOT before boost creeps to 9 psi and fuel cut kicks in. I don't want to set fuel cut to anything higher than say 10 psi for fear of running too much boost and kablamo! Although my fuel and timing are way conservative.

So my wastegate routing issue seems legitimate to you guys right? I need to get a new manifold or try and locate the gate more gradually off the front two cyliders right above the flange for the turbo. I just don't want to go through all the work of moving it to the front of the manifold and then have the same problem because it is only gating off two cylinders.

Is there anything I might be missing that could be causing my boost creep other than poor gate location?

I need to finish the exhaust and see if that slight increase in backpressure will help a bit.

Thanks.

warnarf

Don't know what kind of boost controller you are using but when I lived in Japan my Supra had an older version of this:

http://www.hksusa.com/categories/?id=1085

HKS controllers are designed specifically to help stop boost creep and it worked well on the Supra. I didn't have the creep issues you were having though cause my setup used internal wastegates. That controller is expensive though but worth it. When messing with turbo's I recommend nothing but HKS products.

Denisst99

got a pic of your manifold/wastegate set-up?

on my motoria manifold i added a 90° elbow right in front of the manifold (where all 4 cylinders joins) and on the end of that bend i have the flange for my tial 38mm

no more creep

a boost controler won't stop creep,it might stop creep created by another boost controler, but if it's flow related it won't do a thing

tdonnell

Hey thanks for the reply, as for boost control, it will be a haltech solenoid. I am running an e6x standalone. Right now I just have the boost signal coming from the turbo piping about 1 ft. downstream of the turbo outlet going to the under side of a tial 38mm gate.

Will finishing the exhaust make a big difference? I still have to put on like 8 more feet of piping. I figure the SUPER free flowing exhaust now running open downpipe could be a big contributor to the creep. Downpipe and entire exhaust is/will be 3" mandrel bent.

I am going to finish the exhaust tomorrow and see how it sounds/feels.

Yea denisst. I just don't want to pull the turbo back off, remove all the wrap from the manifold, and then move the flange. I KNEW I should have moved it before the install, my lazyness kicked me in the ass!

My manifold:

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x230/Me...rboparts002.jpg

Like I said I need to move the pipe over to the front and put a 90 degree bend over and then the flange for the gate. Then I will have to re-do my gate downpipe as well. I'm sooo tired, I have a good 50+ hours of work in this custom turbo setup.

I will post pics when I get my camera back.

warnarf

oh yeah after seeing that pic of your header that might be an issue. I have never seen one with the feed off of one runner...probably because of the reasons you are having. The ones I've seen have a single pipe coming out from below all of the runners in the collector plenum. You manifold doesn't have a plenum, the flange is just straight welded to the runners. With that manifold I don't see where you are going to put it. I suggest cutting the flange off and making at least some kind of short collector plenum. Your current setup assumes the gas pressure is static in the manifold and will go wherever it can get out, but the exhaust gases are flowing and won't run back up stream from the other pipes so to relieve pressure they must be a collected flow . Unfortunately for you, cutting and lengthening the manifold will probably throw off your custom piping but that may be the only solution. You can see in denis's post that he had his outlet added to his collector area so that fixed it for him. I still like that controller I mentioned though, if nothing else it seemed to regulate the pressure a lot better than the stock controller so much that it could boost almost a full psi higher than stock. I haven't worked with Haltech so hopefully they are super sweet as well. I imagine they are, I hear their name thrown around alot.

Oh and denis may be right about the controller not stopping creep but waaaay back in 1998 that is exactly what HKS advertised it would do. I think mine was version three, I can't remember. I wasn't that car savvy back then regardless so I just took what they said as gospel...god do I know better than that now!

Here is a sample manifold.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Coro...sspagenameZWDVW

I know it is for a toyota but it illustrates my point. See their wastegate outlet comes from the plenum made to the end of the runners. I suspect you need a similar plenum added to yours.

tdonnell

Yeah, sigh, I know; I have read multiple turbocharging books and totally understood the way my gate was located was the absolute worst integration possible. I was just hoping the single runner gate would work. There is nearly no collector whatsoever on this manifold! I think I MIGHT be able to get it off 2 cylinders instead of one, but it is going to be close.

Even the manifold in that ebay link isn't optimal, the gate comes off completely opposed to exhaust gas flow. Unfortunately sometimes that is the only way to do it due to fitment issues, that somewhat relates to my dilemma, but if I come off the front of the manifold and do an instant 90 degree bend then do the flange, I think I will be okay.

Re-working the custom piping is going to take some time, but that is why we all do these things, we like working on our cars.

I really think the best solution might be to either cut the flange off, and weld an extension made out of say 3" pipe in there, or to just get a new manifold all together; I mean, if I have to re-do this, I want it done RIGHT, optimal flow and location. After all, it IS an ebay manifold. The one part I cheaped out on ends up screwing me...

Well, I'm off to make the rest of the exhaust system.

Thanks for everyones input; keep the info flowing.

tibbytib

tdonnell - I was considering this adapter with my stock obx turbo mani before I went with an internal gate. its not the best/optimal, but it sure would be better then what you got now. Might solve your problem until you can make one yourself or have one fabbed. Or, it may just work for ya. Not sure, you might get by for the time being with this adapter and cutting and drilling some plate steel and just cappin that wastegate outlet.

just another option for ya...

Ebay Wastegate Adapter

tdonnell

Hey thanks for the link there tibbytib.

Actually I have my own AC/DC tig welder, a torch, a compressor with air tools, etc. I do all the fabrication myself. I did consider doing that for a second, but if I was going to do that, I could just cut the flange off the existing manifold, and bend/mold a peice of stainless exhaust pipe (3-3.5" likely) to the right size to mate with the runner collector area and the turbo flange. Then I could weld that in place, then cut a hole and weld in the wastegate flange.

I think that is what I am going to attempt to do, it will likely be a real PITA, but it will be better than even that flange you put a link up for.

Don't take this the wrong way though, I do appreciate you taking the time to find something that would work smile.gif . It's just that since I have all the tools necessary to make that myself basically (without the two additional thick peices of iron (more weight on the manifold that could cause it to crack), why not do it right?

All I should need to do is make a pipe about 1.5" long in a rectangular shape exactly the size of the turbo inlet, then when I cut off the flange, it will mate up perfect (theoretically) to the manifold and the flange!