tanc

If you decide to extend your manifold use at least 2.5mm wall tubing.

tdonnell

I think that is probably the wall thickness on the stainless pipe I did my exhaust with, it is pretty damn nice piping.

I will check the thickness with a caliper to be sure, but the manifold piping is likely thinner than the exhaust piping, friggin ebay manifolds I swear, lol; j/k.

I don't think I can judge how many psi I can safely run without being on a dyno while listening for knock with electric headphones. Reason being is I have my head ported with larger valves and aggressive cams. Along with a pretty damn big turbo. So what I am saying is if I go to 15 psi I will probably be at around 320-350 whp. I'll have the gate issue fixed by this weekend and setup some tuning time at a local dyno shop.

Anyone know where I can get a chassis ear? Maybe the Mac or Snap-On guys will have one on their trucks, I'll have to check.

Thanks.

Ericy321

Ya, they will or they may have to order it. It is not by any means cheap or even affordable I think. And you dont need the 6 or whatever different mics. Use a stethoscope or something and listen.

Enthalpy

I used a pneumatic stethoscope for awhile, and it worked pretty well. The Chassis Ear works better IMO, but I know tuners who prefer the pneumatic setup.

As for tuners letting you watch, I always let the customers watch, but they have to obey strict safety rules or they are out! There are liability issues there.

I have been in bands performing for some pretty large crowds all my life, so I don't get stage fright, but some tuners might. That can be another possible reason. If the tuner requests this, and he is prone to stage fright, letting him have the car, as painful as that can be, might be a good idea, especially if he seems competent and comes with good references.

As for additional psi/octane increase, there is no rule of thumb like this out there that I know of. Some motors will bottom bearings on pump gas, so race gas obviously buys you nothing. Other cars are heavily knock-prone, so high-octane gas can yield fantastic results!

Don't use leaded fuel with your wideband and cats in place! Lead will kill the cat quickly and the wideband's life will be shortened. I can get my hands on 104 Unleaded Sunoco. That's my fuel of choice on the track.

If you drop your turbo, make sure the oil can still drain out of the turbo well! If the oil gets backed up in the CHRA, it can damage your oil seals, causing oil to seep into the turbine or compressor. Going slightly overkill on the drain line size doesn't hurt a thing. A -12 line is what I use on my car. Overkill? Yeah, but I sleep well at nights. I have about 10,000 miles on my current turbo, and my intake piping is DRY. I quick-pass emissions too. No leaking at all.

tdonnell

I got the manifold extended last night. Extended it 1".

I need to locate the gate today and get everything mocked up.

As for the drain line, it is -10 an. That is the largest the shop I went to for lines was able to get to fit on the drain flange I got from them. I figured it would be plenty.

Although there was a drip of oil on the compressor inlet when I tore it all apart! I think it is from when I tested for oil pressure from the head, that was a messy experience as oil went everywhere! I think the filter got some oil on it and it sucked into the compressor leaving a slight residue. There was no oil residue at all in the outlet piping off the compressor or in the intake piping to the engine.

The center of the pan drain bung is 3/4" from the top of the pan, that was the highest I could get it and be able to weld the top. The top of the bung is about 1/8 - 3/16" from the bottom of the pan sealing area.

I also have to route my drain line around the downpipe which makes it less straight down and more sweeping. It needed to go that way anyway since the turbo is located to the drivers side of where the pan is so...

I will definately keep an eye out for the oil in the compressor inlet though, that is worrying me! Where do you guys all put your bungs for the pan? In a similar location to what I described?

Here is what I have found for listening to knock: http://www.toolgopher.com/engineeariielect...tethescope.aspx

Is that similar to what you have Damon?

Thanks.

SOCKS_old

here is the manifold from my tib.. i had no boost creep issues.

tanc

tdonnell, I can get you an electronic stethascope like that for half that price from work.

It's the same one I use, it's great. LMK.

Enthalpy

Stethoscope -
Mine has a tiny piezoelectric microphone welded to a clip that I clamp onto the block below the head next to the most knock-prone cylinder. What you describe is something similar to a pneumatic stethoscope. Frankly, either will work, and it boils down to preference.

Manifold -
That's a fantastic manifold, socks! Nice job! I'm assuming you went with the high-temp (2000 *F) ceramic coating. I did that to my manifold and it looks sharp, plus it's very durable!

Oil in the Compressor -
Something I forgot to mention is I do NOT have my PCV breather routed to the pre-turbo intake. With the PCV breather routed back to the intake, it's actually somewhat normal to get a little oil in the intake on a forced-induction car with the PCV breather routed back to the pre-compressor intake plumbing. I have a catch and breather filter. I recommend doing just this because you can a.) monitor the amount of breather oil coming from your block, and b.) any oil in the intake will be from the TURBO, not the PCV system. It allows differential diagnosis of the turbo apart from the PCV system.

Pan Bung Location -
We put it above the free surface of the oil in the pan such that the turbo oil stream comes in ABOVE the level of oil in the pan. This allows for less "backpressure" for the oil to re-enter the pan. If this isn't possible, don't sweat it that much.

I think Tommy's car used a -10, but I can't remember for sure.

SOCKS_old

yeah it was the 2000 degree coating. that manifold was soo nice.. 8ga. stainless, tig welded.

heres how i did my beta II pan.. the fitting is above the oil level and sticks into the pan about 2.5" so oil can get sucked back up or splash back into the return line. i also did the same type of thing in my beta I pan, just a little bit higher. (cant put fitting as high in beta II pan cuz the thick casting)

tdonnell

Thanks so much for the support, pics, and info guys!

After 15 hours of work, I STILL have the creep issue!! Although now it doesn't begin to creep up until 5000 - 5500 rpm, and it creeps slower/more gradually making it much easier to control with the pedal than before.

My gate location looks almost exactly like SOCKS', except my manifold may be about 1/4-1/2" shorter. It gates off ALL 4 cylinders now. My 70 degree bend is angled so exhaust can flow to it a bit better - probably about 75 degrees in relationship to the front 2 cylinders.

The pipe coming off the gate is a 90 though, I figured that wouldn't affect it that much. I even port matched the piping coming off the manifold, so the hole in the manifold is the exact same inside diameter as the 1.5" pipe.

I think the only solution now is to get a bigger wastegate? Either that or waste money on a $500-$1000 manifold. I am going with a Tial 46mm if I buy a new one, no more screwing around with all this extra work!! I think if I do that and run 1.75" pipe instead of 1.5", my problem will hopefully go away. Opinions?

I think the reason I am running into this issue is because of how much air my engine is flowing compared to you guys? I do have larger valves and substantial headwork along with sr 268's and an airram w/65mm tb. What do you all think about that assumption? It's either that or there is another issue like the gate not opening all the way or something?

Right now I have the boost line about 4" long from the pipe that runs right over top the gate, going to the bottom port of the gate. The top port is completely open, I even removed the barb fitting to be sure.

Anyone know where I can get a switched power from in the engine bay without splicing into the ignition circuit? I need one for my boost control solenoid. (won't be wiring it up until I can figure out this boost creep issue).

I set my fuel cut to 11 psi and started to burn a little oil, so lowered it back down to 8. The smoke went away.

If I eventually up the boost, the gate will have to vent less gas and it will control boost better correct?

My oil drain is maybe even a little higher than yours SOCKS, I feel better now. I was worried if there was oil in the way of the drain in the pan, it wouldn't drain and no oil would circulate through the turbo.

Is it normal to hear the turbo spinning on the bearings for about 20-30 seconds after I shut the car off? It is very faint, you can only hear it if you put your ear pretty much on the air filter, but it is there. Can you guys with journal bearings hear the same thing or no?

God I am sorry for such a long damn post, but I want you all to thoroughly understand my issues, thoughts, to more accurately provide me with information that will hopefully lead to a solution.

Oh and I ran my PCV and valve cover vent together with a tee, then ran that line to a mini catch can (air/water seperator for an air compressor), then from there into the fender area where the aem used to sit with a mini breather filter on it. (with the breather in the engine bay the HVAC system would blow oil/engine smells into the passenger compartment, so I ran it all the way into the fender and no more smell! So I do NOT have any lines from the engine running into my intake piping. So the only way oil could/will get into my piping is if it comes through the turbo, but like I said it was probably from the filter getting oil on it when I tested the oil feed port for pressure.