Try a new one.

 

Cheaper and faster, try scrubbing the hole for the crank sensor. A poor fit in the block can do as bad as prevent the engine starting at all. Also spooge some vaseline in the connectors and plug/unplug the CKP a few times to clean the contacts. If that doesn't get it, you might try to tie a long stick to the crank sensor wire and jiggle the wire with the engine running, to see if it changes anything.

 

superb, thanks Stocker -



just ordered a new OEM crank sensor, so when that arrives I will try your suggestions prior to fitting it -



I noticed that the wiring post the connector was rather cramped, so tried to free that up as much as possible - although the sensor itself didnt look all that old. But i hadnt a tester on hand to see the voltage, so went for the plunge (my betting was i would need a new one at some point anyhow)

 

If the wire got crimped and cut then that would cause major problems. Do a signal trace all the way back to the ECU and make sure you have no breaks in the wiring.

 

Have you check the connection between the harness and the ecu is properly connected? Mine got loose once and made it misfire on cylinder 3 it was just running horrible.

 

yeah i'm hoping to check that tonight via laptop - although, its pretty tight round that general area - ive given it as much room as i can -



After this the only thing left i can think it'll be is that the sports cat is blocked - which means cutting the exhaust right before the cat..... not really looking forward to that as it'll have to be welded back up (the next place up is the downpipe, and im not really keen on running it out straight from the turbo exit)



Also, tonight i will clean out the MAP sensor with some electrical contact cleaner - see if that helps anything.....



IF all of that doesnt work - im stumped. Only thing left (surely?) is the ecu........?

 

Like I said, do a signal trace back from the crank to ECU. You mays well do a trace for the injectors, coil pack, and crank and cam sensors. I bet you have a poor signal some where.

 

well the new crank sensor didnt work.... so on the case tracing all wiring tonight hopefully when a electrician friend is coming over.....



Chapp has also said the crank sensor wiring - post the sensor plug - so that the next point of call......

 

well still no further along the line with this guys



Another observation ive got, is the idle is quite poor. It jitters about a wee bit, and the AFR ranges from 11-18



It'll sit there going 11 - 17 - 12 - 16 (ish) over and over - not sure if this could relate to anything else?



TPS reading on ecu is fine, however i'm just putting this down to poor idle mapping...... but just incase it jumps anyones mind to something else it could relate to my first problem.



Stripped back the harness wiring and inspected, all looks grand there - jiggling, wobbling pushing and pulling the harness at varuious points doesnt seem to do anything either. Checked Crank sensor plug connection also.



Could this be a coilpack issue? It was suggested to me the other day.....

 

ok, so



today my electronics dude came over and checked all the wiring for the crank sensor.



Improved the wiring bodge that was there going into the ecu, cleaned out the contacts from sensor - harness......



SHES ALIVE! Crist, so it was that afterall!



Took her out and around, wheeeeeee right up to redline, ran like a dream



for 10 minutes anyhow.



Then she started again - this time, now she only goes to 6k, instead of the 5k as before..... its amost there lol



The ONLY thing i am thinking now, is that it sat with almost an empty tank for over a year, and then i added a gallon of premium fuel in, and thats mixed with old fuelling.



When the problem(s) come back, the idle goes funny, and wont rev.





Is it a probable that bad fuel could cause these problems? When on its limit, it just goes bang bang bang - like a missfire....



So nearly out fo options now its getting me down After this its off to a tuning shop that want £90 an hour