Glad you got it sorted out for at least 10 min. Now you at least know what your problem was.



GL with the new hick-up.

 

but its all back again.... and I dont know why nothing changed...... maybe just luck

 

Does the car run well at all? Or is it 100% back to the same problem as before? I think you need to recall your electronics buddy and say "you gave me an intermittent good connection somewhere . . . please find it!"

 

I am military and my Tib sits for a year at a time, never started. I do make sure the tank is completely full, and i do use a fuel treatment.. But the fuel still gets seperated, and the car always runs a little rough, but the next tank she is good to go, possible bad fuel. I know just around town sometimes my car will run like a champ off one gas stations gas, and then sputter and back fire off another...



Also just a heads up, the hole stumbly idle, then could be a vacumm leak man. Yet, most vacum leaks will let the car rev, but stumble or die at idle! Just something else to look at!

 

Thanks for the reply guys – I really appreciate all your help with this



This is what we done – literally



Took the readings from sensor, and harness – then from harness to ECU – and he thought that the resistance values were a little out – then found that the loom to the ECU had a horrid twisty type join – so we corrected this with proper crimps and secured them – also disconnected the sensor, sprayed with electrical contact cleaner, and plugged and unplugged a few times – that was it.



The resistance values then appeared to be a bit better



Then started her back up, and wallah! The idle was back up at 1200rpm, stayed nice and steady – which usually happens at cold, but then as it warms up the idle drops and it goes all hectic – usually within about 2-3 mins of startup.



10 mins later it was still all grand, so we took it out – and went up and down a road (once it was fully warmed) giving it the beans –



Then on the third run big misfire/backfire at 6k – like BANG BANG BANG at the 6k mark – which wouldn’t go. Then sure enough, got back home, the cack idle is back, and it wouldn’t rev past 6k. (the guy helping was in the car at the time) – and literally nothing had moved, changed, or anything since he put it all back together



The only reason why I mention petrol, is that it sat on the previous owners drive for a year, near on empty. Then I got it back and it had a fresh gallon of petrol put in (its not road legal at the moment so I cant even fill it up at a petrol station) but that’s all that’s in the tank at the moment.



Im kinda wondering if it was a fluke that it got a good bit of gas, but I guess its more than possible that old degraded fuel or whatever is in there could cause that problem?



Ive also checked all the vacuum lines and they appear to be absolutely fine – but it was so odd that the 2 problems seemed to disappear hand in hand.



If fuel is a likely cause I’ll go fill her up (£70/ $114 to fill up with premium now…. Gulp) but we have a petrol treatment redex – I presume similar to your seafoam – would that be safe to add to the fuel at this point?



Thanks again for your help





EDIT: Another friend who is very familiar with FI cars is coming tonight - he thinks the BOV is broken, causing the boost to spike at 1 bar, and overboost causing the missfire...... fingers crossed

 

A blow off valve does not cause boost spikes because they only open under vac. Pop-Off valves are valves designed to open at a certain boost level. I doubt you have a pop-off valve. I don't think you ever mentioned the car being used and sitting for a year at the previous owner's house. I suspect the previous owner had problems with the car and that's why it sat for a year, and now your having the same problems. My money is on the ECU being bad and failing after driving a while.

 

yes sorry you are correct, he thinks the problems are caused by airleaks, but also suspects a fautly BOV based on what he's seen



The one on there is a standard scooby one

 

I'd sooner vote for getting as much of the old gas as possible OUT of the tank (minor hassle) and filling it with a tank of fresh gasoline. A water removal chemical (I'd use isopropyl alcohol because I've got some) would possibly be a good idea. YES bad gas causes horrible running.



And just because you men didn't change change anything doesn't mean nothing changed. Just engine vibration might be enough to shake loose a dodgy connection.



Keep up hope. These are simple cars and the problem is likely to be something(s) small. Just finding it

 

Thanks dude, its good to see encouraging posts - after several evenings and weekends i'm starting to get a little tired of it - but yeah, youre right dude, its gotta be something simple... i just know it



Cheers - i'll let you know how i get on tonight

 

Well not sure what the weather is like, but From expierence when a car sits for extended amounts of time with a fuel tank that is low or empty, there is room for condensation with in the tank, as it heats up and cools down, you get water in the tank, the lower the level of fuel the worse the results over time, best thing you can do is fill up the tank, also add something to get the water out of the tank that is there, If you have a autozone, or something like that, you can pick up some dry fuel, or a solution to to the fuel to pick up the water as the fuel is consumed.