Androoo

Hi there guys, please help me!



Ive just re-installed the turbo on my tib after having the headers welded for cracks, and now the car wont rev past 1.5-2k - it just has a kinda limit that it wont push through ....









i have checked and re-checked everything, and i just cant seem to work out what it is. The rev limiter goes a wee bit bonkers as it hits this limit, as if it doesnt know what its doing.



Although I installed new gaskets (header and header to turbo, OEM) there sounds like a very slight leak, but no-where near as bad as before, and it drove just fine then.....



Before removal, it had bad lag type effect, poor idle but drove ok - like, it would have been passable (to get to a tuning shop) but now......



PLEASE HELP ME!

tanc

Let's see if we can get this figured out for you.



What are you using as far as tuning goes?



What exactly did you remove and resinstall? Include the SMALLEST DETAIL that may seem irrelevant but may play a part in all this.

Androoo

Great, thanks for your help -



Sorry, just re-edited to give more information



The manifold, turbo and boost pipes connecting were removed. (including 2 waterlines, and 2 oil lines)



Downpipe removed from hot side of turbo, piping from cold side removed (Clip removed so silicone sleeve could be pulled off)



i disconnected the crank sensor.



The other boost pipe from the turbo - intercooler was also removed (the 3 bolt attachment) and that has been double checked



i removed the manifold / Turbo as one unit, and seperated the 2. Replaced old OBX gasket with Metal OEM gasket



the ECU is aemerald Standalone, rather than Hyunsdai piggybacked.



the car is a MAP converted (from MAF)



that was literally all that was taken off ..... really really stuck.



Before removal, it was running ok - there wasnt this block on the revs at all, and revved to redline freely

tanc

Okay. Are you running a MAF system?



Double check the crank sensor wiring/connection and check the sensor for good operational order.



Considering you running a Standalone no one here has ever heard of, we might not be much help in that category. If you've gone through all your options above and everything checks out, take a look at the tune. Are you running a cam sensor? Check your sensors



Are you running a cat?



Make sure all the settings on the standalone are at the correct value. Check with your tuner.

Androoo

it was a MAF system, however this was converted to run remote located MAP setup -



Yes, there is a sports cat in there, i did considor disconnecting the exhaust and trying to rev incase there is a block in there but ran out of daylight today.



is there an easy way without a voltmeter that i can check the operation of the crank sensor? Its definitaly plugged in all correct, its just so odd that all was fine beforehand, but only a few things were removed and now its duff.



Could an air leak pre-turbo cause this possibly?

187sks

My guess is crankshaft position sensor issues. Probably no signal to the standalone so it's in some sort of limp mode that'll let you fire it up but not really drive it beyond a careful cruise.

Androoo

I did wonder, but i didnt think that it would cause it to violently stop the revving as it does - i did hoever notice that it would allo a further 500rpm when actually driving, say WOT rather than in neutral standing still.



It was literally the only sensor removed at the time.... ive not heard to CPS causing that before though? (still learning!)

tanc

Definitely make sure your crank position sensor is working and your standalone is receiving signal from it correctly.



Check hmaservices, there's a sticky with the password and username.

Turboron_99

Also I read above and i saw you had to remove some piping, but didnt mention any IAT sensor, The Iat sensor will make your car go into limp mode, make sure you have the IAT hooked up.

tanc

^^^ Not at all. I ran with no IAT for weeks with no issues other than a CEL. Your timing map and fuel map might alter a bit, but it's minor change.