I can't see the IAT throwing a standalone into a limp mode...

 

Sounds like a blocked exhaust. Fastest check is pull the pipes off like you said & run it open. If it will rev with the exhaust disconnected at the head, check for a clogged pipe or cat, or non-spinning turbo?

 

Maybe the fic is diffrent, and I am talking about the IAT not just pulled out of the piping, like seperated, so there is Zero signal.

 

^^^ Yes, I know. I ran NO IAT. There will never be 0 signal, it goes to min or max voltage which is still a temp reading with the sensor disconnected.

 

Sounds likes either the crank sensor is dead or your aemarld standalone is having problems reading the sensor or firing the coil pack. It could also be your TPS sensor. Find out what type of standalone your running and come back. There is no such thing as a aemarld stanalone lol. Its either an AEM EMS or AEM F/IC.

 

Sorry no its an emerald standalone system, (K3 i believe) - my bad.



Ive had another look, and i am really starting to think its the turbo not spinning..... what on earth could cause that? As its 8:30pm here now i cant get the laptop out as the neighbours will complain, i'll come back and look at it. But theres been NO change to the ecu since it got pulled apart, ive just double checked the crank snesor, and its plugged in ok, but will check the voltage.....



But im seriously thinking its the turbo not spinning. It sounds like its blocked rather than an electrical thing.



When the turbo was out i checked all the fins and they spun freely, with no resistance or play



thanks guys

 

Wouldn't the Crank Position Sensor (CKP) keep the car from starting?



turbo not spinning... pipes are all connected? Did you have a cap on the pipes/turbo while they were disconnected to prevent debris from getting inside?

 

Even if the turbo was seized up that would NOT cause enough of a restriction to prevent the engine from revving to redline. Most good standalones have a failsafe that will run the engine off the cam sensor if the crank is dead. To see if the crank sensor is working you need an Oscilloscope to read the wave signals, its not strictly a voltage signal.



You can check to see if the TPS sensor is working with a voltmeter though.



I do see the Emerald K3 has quite a few advanced features. Did you double check that all your sensors are calibrated properly? Do you have a tuned map that you can reload onto the unit? Its also possible one of the 3 internal igniters have gone bad.

 

Yeah the pipes were capped off and i checked the turbo fins right before putting it back in and they were absolutely fine....



Thats the odd thing - the car will start absolutely fine, however it does, to me anyhow, sound like almost a missfire of somekind, and i know thats a typical Crank Sensor failure symptom - before removal it was hard to start when cold, but usually its when hot that they struggle - so im half in doubt it is that, and ive never heard of it forcing a car to physically stop the revs increasing - unless its causing such a bad missfire it wont allow it to?

 

I'm thinking you left something in one of the ports like a rag or something stupid. Cause the turbo will still spin manually but wont spin with exhaust pressure. And it wont let you rev up because there's no where for the exhaust to go. Just a hunch



Seen it done and almost have done it myself...remembered it was in there before i fired it up lol



Either that or your crank sensor or wiring to your standalone. You didn't happen to drop and or throw the sensor while it was out right? lol



Good luck mang