Haltech Plug And Play Harness - Tests Complete!
QUOTE (Enthalpy @ Dec 13 2007, 09:21 AM)
As always, mileage is heavily dependant on what you do with your right foot.
Thats what i meant smile.gif
I agree with you that you can get factory like economy with a standalone, but in the end its so hard not to keep your
foot on the go pedal!
BTW the AU models were MAP from the factory.
I already have the E6 with the harness and a spare oem ecu.
Would it be easier to mount the E6 in the engine bay say on the firewall and just directly connect the inputs/outputs to the components?
For instance, splice in all the oem connectors for every sensor or electrical component onto the existing wire loom harness.
Then all I should need is some assistance tuning it right?
That should work correct? I could just tuck away all of the factory harnesses.
However if you feel confident we could make a p&p work fairly easily, I would rather go that route.
Thanks.
Would it be easier to mount the E6 in the engine bay say on the firewall and just directly connect the inputs/outputs to the components?
For instance, splice in all the oem connectors for every sensor or electrical component onto the existing wire loom harness.
Then all I should need is some assistance tuning it right?
That should work correct? I could just tuck away all of the factory harnesses.
However if you feel confident we could make a p&p work fairly easily, I would rather go that route.
Thanks.
Yeah, I was afraid of that, thanks java.
Is the actual computer board supported by springs inside the metal housing, because if I shake it, I can feel the computer moving a bit inside the housing.
Just wanted to see if that was normal, I hope it is.
Is the actual computer board supported by springs inside the metal housing, because if I shake it, I can feel the computer moving a bit inside the housing.
Just wanted to see if that was normal, I hope it is.
Yeah, me too. I am not too worried.
How is your car running and how do you have it wired up i.e. spliced into the stock harness at the ecu, or with all the connectors directly attached to the E6's harness?
Is there any way you could forward me some startup maps, although I will be na only at first; that would just mean your maps will be very rich above about 3k or so for me, I could adjust that as well as advance the ignition timing. That would be a great help.
Do you have the black housing as well? What software are you running, v 1.1 or 1.26? I downloaded 1.26 from haltech's website.
How is your car running and how do you have it wired up i.e. spliced into the stock harness at the ecu, or with all the connectors directly attached to the E6's harness?
Is there any way you could forward me some startup maps, although I will be na only at first; that would just mean your maps will be very rich above about 3k or so for me, I could adjust that as well as advance the ignition timing. That would be a great help.
Do you have the black housing as well? What software are you running, v 1.1 or 1.26? I downloaded 1.26 from haltech's website.
Sorry, guys. I was kept all day at the dyno tuning a 350 awhp Subaru that was giving me FITS. I finally figured it out come rush hour. I then spent 1.5 hours traveling 20 miles in Denver's crappy traffic. Needless to say, it's been a long day.
That might be easier. Finding those pigtails can sometimes be tough, and then you have to roll your own factory harness, thermal and vibration protection and all. After you solve that, the main issue here is HEAT. I would be surprised if Haltech signed off on using it this way. You would have to talk to them first, though.
The P&P is as easy to install as the factory ECU is to remove. I don't believe you have to take apart the dash. There are 3 bolts at the base of the whole mount. One is tough to get to, but not impossible.
I took the Haltech flying loom, which consists of the E8 plugs with wires haning out. I then remove the PLUG itself from the factory ECU. I solder the wires onto the individual pins of the factory plug, then I mount it up to the ECU's base, which I modify. I then drop a cover I cut in half on top to shield the wires.
I have maps for NA as well as turbo. Because of the fascinating ways turbos screw with VE, you shouldn't use a turbo map for an NA car unless you have it tuned.
The caveat I give you is the NA maps weren't nearly as well-developed since we were immediately going to a turbo. I don't even think we dyno tuned them.
Adjusting the fueling based on engine speed, believe it or not, isn't a primary way to keep you safe. You need to adjust it based on manifold pressure and various temperature curves.
My maps are for the newer firmware on the E8. You will need to upgrade the firmware, then use V1.71 of the tuning software.
Drop me a line and we can discuss getting you maps that will work. I also offer a REMOTE TUNING SERVICE via logs, email and phone. I can run you though some tuning basics that you will need to know to get your car up and running.
QUOTE (tdonnell @ Dec 13 2007, 05:18 PM)
I already have the E6 with the harness and a spare oem ecu.
Would it be easier to mount the E6 in the engine bay say on the firewall and just directly connect the inputs/outputs to the components?
For instance, splice in all the oem connectors for every sensor or electrical component onto the existing wire loom harness.
Then all I should need is some assistance tuning it right?
That should work correct? I could just tuck away all of the factory harnesses.
However if you feel confident we could make a p&p work fairly easily, I would rather go that route.
Thanks.
Would it be easier to mount the E6 in the engine bay say on the firewall and just directly connect the inputs/outputs to the components?
For instance, splice in all the oem connectors for every sensor or electrical component onto the existing wire loom harness.
Then all I should need is some assistance tuning it right?
That should work correct? I could just tuck away all of the factory harnesses.
However if you feel confident we could make a p&p work fairly easily, I would rather go that route.
Thanks.
That might be easier. Finding those pigtails can sometimes be tough, and then you have to roll your own factory harness, thermal and vibration protection and all. After you solve that, the main issue here is HEAT. I would be surprised if Haltech signed off on using it this way. You would have to talk to them first, though.
The P&P is as easy to install as the factory ECU is to remove. I don't believe you have to take apart the dash. There are 3 bolts at the base of the whole mount. One is tough to get to, but not impossible.
QUOTE (tdonnell @ Dec 13 2007, 05:50 PM)
Yeah, me too. I am not too worried.
How is your car running and how do you have it wired up i.e. spliced into the stock harness at the ecu, or with all the connectors directly attached to the E6's harness?
Is there any way you could forward me some startup maps, although I will be na only at first; that would just mean your maps will be very rich above about 3k or so for me, I could adjust that as well as advance the ignition timing. That would be a great help.
Do you have the black housing as well? What software are you running, v 1.1 or 1.26? I downloaded 1.26 from haltech's website.
How is your car running and how do you have it wired up i.e. spliced into the stock harness at the ecu, or with all the connectors directly attached to the E6's harness?
Is there any way you could forward me some startup maps, although I will be na only at first; that would just mean your maps will be very rich above about 3k or so for me, I could adjust that as well as advance the ignition timing. That would be a great help.
Do you have the black housing as well? What software are you running, v 1.1 or 1.26? I downloaded 1.26 from haltech's website.
I took the Haltech flying loom, which consists of the E8 plugs with wires haning out. I then remove the PLUG itself from the factory ECU. I solder the wires onto the individual pins of the factory plug, then I mount it up to the ECU's base, which I modify. I then drop a cover I cut in half on top to shield the wires.
I have maps for NA as well as turbo. Because of the fascinating ways turbos screw with VE, you shouldn't use a turbo map for an NA car unless you have it tuned.
The caveat I give you is the NA maps weren't nearly as well-developed since we were immediately going to a turbo. I don't even think we dyno tuned them.
Adjusting the fueling based on engine speed, believe it or not, isn't a primary way to keep you safe. You need to adjust it based on manifold pressure and various temperature curves.
My maps are for the newer firmware on the E8. You will need to upgrade the firmware, then use V1.71 of the tuning software.
Drop me a line and we can discuss getting you maps that will work. I also offer a REMOTE TUNING SERVICE via logs, email and phone. I can run you though some tuning basics that you will need to know to get your car up and running.
Well first thing is first, can you hook me up with a p&p harness?
PM me with what you need me to send you, how much you estimate it will cost, etc.
After I get it all back from you we can discuss tuning methods in more detail.
Thanks so much.
PM me with what you need me to send you, how much you estimate it will cost, etc.
After I get it all back from you we can discuss tuning methods in more detail.
Thanks so much.
Sounds good, thanks.
Hey, what kind of mpg are you e6 users getting? Of course you are all boosted, but just for the heck of it.
Also, how are we going to do the map conversion, just use the factory's MAF wiring?
Hey, what kind of mpg are you e6 users getting? Of course you are all boosted, but just for the heck of it.
Also, how are we going to do the map conversion, just use the factory's MAF wiring?



