I'm not sure what you mean by MAP conversion. With an EMS, you simply get a MAP sensor that's compatible with it. In this case, a 3-bar GM sensor will work just fine and costs something like 40 or 50.

You never use the MAF. You remove that restriction in your intake! Sell it if you want to. Tape off the plug so it doesn't get dirt in it in case you want to swap back to MAF in the future.

 

I already have GM 1 and 3 bar map sensors, I was just curios how I should wire them up because the factory harness doesn't have map connections, only maf. So I was wondering if you want me to just use the existing maf wires and run them to the map sensor. You will just wire the map sensor wires from the e6 into the factory maf wire pins right?

 

Oh, I see what you mean. I just ran new wiring to the sensor mounted on the firewall. If you want me to do the same, specify the length of wire. Otherwise, it's very simple to wire up.

The goal here is swappability. Anything non-stock gets its own wiring and plug. This way, you simply put the MAF back in and use the factory wiring.

One thing to add, guys. I will sell Tommy's harness for 50 bucks off the asking price to anybody who has an E8! Tommy has a harness that has 3 feet of wiring and he wound up mounting it pretty close to the factory ECU, so there's no need for all that wiring.

 

Okay, that makes sense, please make it 7 ft. long so I have enough harness to play with.

Are you going to put the correct connector on it too? It is a GM sensor.

Oh, BTW; I just swapped the 1.8L ECU that I had with the rev-limiter increase on it for the stock 2.0 and holy shyt!
Now I can adjust fuel with the SAFC II perfectly! I got it running 12.5-12.6 at WOT. Only downside is a rev-limit of 6800.
My OBD II port works as well, SWEET!

I am going to get a j/y ecu to send you so I can sell my 1.8 here to someone with a 1.8 so the afr is good.

Sorry for the OT.

I also was wondering what kind of power gains are possible with my NA setup and this unit tuned well?

 

^^ hey tdonnel, so are you saying that with the 1.8 ECU, you have hi and lo settings adjustied on the SAFC2 ?does the ECU have anything done to it? your not on a haltech right ? I think i missed something here.

i have my SAFC2 hooked up with only hi settings adjusted, about 17 percent correction. wideband says my AFR is about 13.6 at wide open throttle, from about 3000 rpms and up, (stock AFR at WOT was like 12.6) on my NA motor.

 

7 feet?!! Wow, I doubt the Haltech flying loom is that long. It will add a fair bit of time to extend it to that length. How long is the E6 loom?

The SAFCII information means you aren't running out of injector, which is good.

Not sure what a j/y ECU is, sorry.

I will get to your PM tomorrow. I don't have any time to check stuff today, I just wanted to check in on the thread. Family stuff, you know...


17 percent MORE or LESS airflow?!! Jeez, that's a lot. If you are reducing the airflow by that much, you are about to hit the big drawback (one of many) of the SAFC II: Your spark timing is WAY advanced!! EESH!

If it's 17% more fuel, then your spark timing is probably too conservative. Sorry, there really isn't much you can do about that with the SAFC II. It's really crude.

 

What I mean is with the 1.8 ECU which I had the rev-limiter flashed and increased to 7800, you cannot adjust the fuel with the SAFC, and the OBD II connection reads NO LINK.

With the non-modified 2.0 ecu, I CAN increase fuel with the SAFC, I had to ADD 25% across the board to get the a/f to 12.6, 13.6 is a little bit on the lean side if you ask me.. There is also no point in adjusting the low throttle setting because the stock o2 sensor will adjust fuel to make a stoichiometric mixture: 14.68:1. Your car goes into open loop at WOT and doesn't reference the o2 signal, just uses pre-programmed maps along with the maf sensor, so when the SAFC modifies the maf to read more or less airflow, you get more or less fuel, and a richer or leaner afr.

The car feels more torquey and powerful with the richer setting.

j/y = junk yard, sorry.

I meant the MAP sensor harness, make it 6-7 ft. so I have enough length to get it through the firewall and to the passenger side of the firewall (that is where the vacuum lines come off the airram intake manifold).

Make the actual haltech harness as long as you can with the existing wire lenght, leave a couple of inches of wire on each connector so they can be used again if necessary.

 

no, im taking away 17 percent ! stock is 12.6, corrected makes it 13.6

 

That 's what I thought.

Means I must be flowing more air than you.

At the stock redline I can get up to 80-85% on the airflow reading of the safc, depending on temperature here in the winter.

What do you get?

 

One of the issues with piggybacks is as you radically change the airflow signal like that, the ECU realizes something is up and throws a fit.

As you add airflow like that, you are reducing spark timing. Additionally, the ECU will only trim so much fuel in or out of the cruising range before it bumps into a limit and throws a code. Typically, this limit is 20% for most factory ECUs.

As for the exact AFR to use, a little tuning tip is AFR is strictly a thermal control mechanism. If you adjust the AFR between 12.5 and 14.0 (or thereabouts), then re-optimize the spark timing for the new AFR (yes, ideal spark timing varies with AFR), you will see negligible differences in engine output!!

As you go rich of the 12.5 or 12.0 mark, you can tend to lose some power, but this is necessary on turbo motors for, once again, thermal control.

So if you are trying to choose an AFR, one trick is to use a load-holding dyno and sit there at medium revs at WOT and see what the motor does after ~30 seconds. I will purposely heat soak the intercooler with turbo motors to make sure my map is safe even if this happens.

7 feet for the MAP harness, gotcha. That makes more sense. Sorry about the confusion.


Beware!! This means you are advancing the spark timing artificially! This is a fantastic way to blow a motor. You need to make sure these settings won't hurt your motor. On a nice, warm day, hit the dyno and do 3 back-to-back pulls with a chassis mic listening for knock. Have a tuner do this if you aren't comfortable with it.


The way the MAF SHOULD BE MAPPED from the factory, it should compensate for the additional airflow to target a certain AFR. The fact that yours isn't makes me wonder what's up.

Sometimes, when a factory ECU sees an across-the-board correction it has to do at part-throttle, it applies the same correction when in open-loop as well, assuming it has a MAF that's out of spec or something. This is part of what makes tuning a piggyback so stinking difficult.

85% airflow is pushing it a little. If you had that reading on a really warm day with a low barometric reading, then you are one cold, high barometer morning away from outpacing the sensor's range and running lean! Yikes! Realize you gain roughly 3.5% mass airflow for every 10 *C air temp drop. Additionally, you gain roughly 3.3% air density for every inch of barometric pressure gain at sea level.