Yup, thats the plan now guys. Gonna be out another 1000 bucks though.

I have to take care of some of this credit debt first, before I go and buy the PRS4. I will get some more runs in on it though, before the season is over, just to see if I can get the ET's lower.

 

Do you have a wideband already? If not that's more money.

You could tune everything yourself on the street if you have a wideband and know how to work with stand alone.

 

great numbers tyler!!! keep it up

 

Got the wideband already, with datalogging. Only problem is the datalogging is wireless, and I don't think my laptop is fast enough to work with it properly (It keeps losing the signal). I want to get a wire connection for it and replace the wideband sensor to ensure accuracy.

I wonder if it would be a good idea at this point to get an adjustable FPR? I could up the fuel pressure then, but would the ECU still re-correct the mixture during light throttle and idle conditions? I would like to get my idle out of the 16-17:1 area and back into the 14-15:1 range. Although I don't think any damage will come to the engine by running that lean as long as it is at idle/light throttle conditions. I figure since the car liked the extra fuel on the dyno, might wanna try it out, but it would be completely pointless if the ECU just re-corrects anyway, so some input on this subject would be appreciated.

Well, I dunno how much better my head flows than stock. Considering they didn't really PORT out the gasket or splitter sides of it (just the bowls). I thought they were going to port out the entire thing, especially for the money I paid, but sad.gif .

I can however tell you the increase of my maximum airflow percentage read by my SAFC II did increase about 10%. My previous maximum number was 78%. I have had it up to 90.5% with the new head, in temps that were warmer than when I got the 78% so, when it gets colder, it will go even higher. I however do think that the 90% reading was a fluke. I can however easlily average in the upper 70's during the day. I got my 78% reading previously during a 25 degree night. It has been around 65 recently and I can get the flow up to about 80% at redline. Does anyone else here have an SAFCII on an NA tib? If so, after a very hard few pulls all the way to redline, push the joystick down, and it will give you your max numbers, make sure you have airflow in your view so it saves it. Could you post up what your maximum airflow numbers are at what rpm? Thanks.

It's pretty crazy that I will probably be near maxing out the stock maf completely NA when people boost 10 psi on it.

Thanks for the support everyone! cool.gif

 

Dude... the things you do to your Tib turn me on lmao.gif
Well done, tune it, and take it to the dyno...
For all you have done to your car, I bet you your 2,5" MAF is f***ing you; I remember when everybody here told me 3" CAI was too much, and everybody was right if your are reducing diameter to the MAF, as in my case it's MAP (no MAF or any restrictions by any means in the intake; it's 3" mandrel bent all the way); and it works good in lower range, and works wonderful in the upper range, you should try a 3" CAI with a 3" MAF replacement...
your engine sucks more air than it can pass efficiently through the 2,5" pipe of the MAF, its limiting the head breatthing capacity; as when they apply restrictors to the turbo cars for the rally championship, cars able to make 340+HP only achieve 280-290 HP just because of the restrictor (which is nothing more than a smaller diameter pipe on the intake before the Turbo).

 

You shouldn't be hitting 17:1afr during idle.

Adjusting your fuel pressure will not do anything for you below 70% throttle unless you go from 38psi to ~50psi. The computer will lean it out and keep the afr stable up to a certain point. If you raise the fuel pressure too high, the computer can't compensate for it and throw a cel.
Only during WOT will raising the fuel pressure richen your AFR because the computer doesn't make AFR changes.

 

i might have my old 3" maf housing, i'll take a look ;-)

i also did hit very close to maxing up the stock maf sensor i think i was at around 5.1 volts
(max reading is 5.3 volts) wich translate to 96%


did you check for any vacuum leaks?Dirty MAF element?
is the SAFC set-upped correctly?
did you scan the car to be sure everything is in working order? o2 sensors, IAT,CTS, MAF...
the ecu should be able to get the engine running back to 14.7 at idle.. if it stays at 17 then you really have a problem somewhere,chekc the short and long term fuel trims i prefer to keep them in the + or - 5% range


John,
in fact if he is really running lean from a lack of fue lat idle then more pressure will help him (if fuel trims stay in range)
he needs to chekc is fuel trims, he might be extra lean below 3000 rpm for some reason ,and the ECU is trying to compensate for that,meaning that the long term fuel is sky high (over 15%)
so if the long term is in the positive side it will have an effect at wot also (long term affects fuel supply in every area of the engine, even at wot in open loop)

 

That's what I said. The only way you can run lean or rich on the stock ECU is if the trims are too far in either direction for the ECU to compensate. Also assuming he doesn't have a cel.

 

I can guarantee that I have CEL's for misfires considering my idle is so lumpy now, like when I first installed the cams. Something is definately not right with the car. My idle before used to be hitting about 15:1 at idle, now it is worse.

Previous to the head swap though, I had 02 sensor codes, for bank 1 inop, and bank 2 malfunction. WTF could be causing this?? There is no damage to the sensors or their harnesses? I don't want to just replace them and waste the money. I will have to look into it further.

I am going to head to Auto Zone and get my codes checked out right now.

Thanks for the fuel pressure info, won't waste the money on one.

 

LOL, this thred has been pretty stagnant. Anyway, still haven't gotten my codes read yet, auto zone doesn't read them in the dark (at night)?? Pisses me off.

Well, I tried low octane in the car the other day, ran like crap at first, very slow. But after the ecu learned the curve for the lower octane, the car seemed to take off quite nicely. This tank is mid grade, and the slight lean misfires at cruising speed during slight throttle increases is more apparant (most apparant on high octane).

The car's exhaust smells very rich at idle, it gags you. I am confused seeing that my wideband is reading in the high 15's, to the high 16's at idle. WTF? The car definately did not smell this way before the head swap.

I will most likely wake up early and run at the track tomorrow to see if I can get it into the mid 14's with the colder weather. I have been able to reach 82% airflow on the SAFC II even heat soaked; 86.4% with a cold engine (slightly warmed up). The maximum I ever reached before the head in weather about 10 degrees warmer was 78% so there is a marked improvement in the airflow abilities. The only question now is whether or not the stock ecu can handle the tuning aspect of the modifications. I still believe this is the weak link to my setup.

Anyway, I stiffened up the Ksports all around to prevent the ass end sagging at ALL during launches, and put my other 'drag' tires on, lol. We shall see, but I wouldn't be surprised to turn say a 14.5-6 tomorrow. Wish me luck.