tdonnell

Oh, cool, so I am only like 1 hp away from haveing the most powerful proven with evidence NA tib? That is awesome! There have to be more people on this forum that are NA and making more power than me, they just need to get to a dyno.

Jon, got a clear pic of my timeslip up now.

Oh, thanks to JonGTR for the new thread.

JonGTR

No prob. I figured a lot of people would want to comment on it. And its true that there are probably a lot of others around the same power, they just need to stop being lazy and get a dyno. Mine only cost me $20. How much was yours?

You should definately look into the PRS4. You don't need to remove your stock ECU or anything. All of the wires are just tapped into the existing ones except for the injector wires. Those needed to be clipped from the stock ECU to relinquish its control. In that case, you can crimp on some connectors for easy assembly and dis-assembly. When its time for you to get an inspection, it'll only take you 5 minutes to snap the stock injector wires back together.
We got ours through a group buy with Tim (Speed-Factor) for $675. I doubt he could get the same deal again, but it seems that there's a lot more distributors in the US now. Just start calling them all.
You may be able to get away with the PRS2 since you wont need the aditional outputs of the 4. It's at least $100 cheaper.

SOCKS_old

damn, i likey that dyno... really nice numbers.. i would say, depending on drivetrain losses of 15-25% you would be at about 180-200hp at crank.

i heard somewhere, that pulling in 3rd gear is best, but dont quote me on that..

i LOVE the torque to horsepower relationship on the beta... soo much nicer than on a honda with VTAK.. lol or any honda for that matter.

i would do something about that AFR in the 4-4500 range, but i dont think the SAFC will be able to adjust that much.

the emanage ultimate has the option to eliminate the MAF, and is a piggy back system, which isn't THAT bad in cost. i know the PRS2-4 are good and everything for standalones, but the emanage is a great option. i am using the blue emanage with dual fuel rails for boost, and it works GREAT. and the emanage ultimate is 10X more advanced than mine.. with MAF elimination options, and many others.. you can get it, with ALL harnesses and software for like ~600$shipped.

i cant wait to see the new dyno with your P&P head on there.. mm gonna send shivers up my spine, lol

i like what ya did with the strut bar.. i will have an option somewhat soon for the airram. how much did you have to grind off the strut bar? and how thick were the washers, where the cross member was?

i would think you could also add a thick washer on the strut tower bolts, id think.

i need to find a trustworthy dyno around here, and take my car there over the winter. i want my damn ECU 02.gif still not here, guess ill dyno at 10psi.

tdonnell

Mine was pretty expensive, even knowing one of the employees. It was 65 for two pulls with air fuel as well. Normally, it is 65 for two pulls and an additional 20 for air fuel, so my friend got me 20 bucks off.

I would want to do the prs4 if anything, I like having open options when I buy and expensive peice of equipment you know?

BTW: The shop I dyno'ed at has been featured in countless articles in top magazines for their work on german cars (might have noticed from the dyno sheet). I think I am the first hyundai to ever enter their shop, lol. Anyway, my point is that I would think they have an accurate dyno. Worth the extra money to me. Also, their tech that drove my car into the bay and during the pulls was very respectful to the car, didn't rev it up or anything, I like that about a shop.

So Jon, your saying that I can just tap into the harness after the connector? Just like I did with the SAFC II? The stock computer cannot remain connected can it? Wouldn't the car run like crap if I switched it back to the stock compter on a boosted tune? I guess I would have to stay off boost then? They don't run the car on the rollers or anything for emissions, they just check for codes and if you don't have any you pass. Could you give me more details on how to pass emissions with a boosted engine in the car?

Thanks.

SOCKS, I had to grind off about 1/8" from the bottom of the bar and put about 1/4" of washers under the rear mount for the engine crossmember. Any higher and the hood would hit the bar, it barely rubs it now. Could I raise the rev-limiter with the emanage?

JonGTR

It wires up exactly like the SAFC. You just need to disconnect the injector wires from the stock ECU so it won't control them.

$65 actually isn't that bad from a respected dyno shop. Especially if they're always getting business. I definately hope you get some numbers after the P&P head.


Here are the tranny specs:
First 3.462

Second 1.950

Third 1.393

Fourth 1.061

Fifth 0.878

Reverse 3.250

Final 3.650

As you can see, 4th gear is the closest one to a 1 ratio. That is what you always need to dyno in.

OdessitPashka

Great numbers and a nice curve man! Take it to the track!!!!

hamhead

Oh yah, what type of dyno did you run on? Dynojet/Mustang/etc.

HyundaiKitCoupe

tdonnell you're in Maryland? you think that shop can do alpine supercharger and unichip piggyback along with some engine work? though it might be a little expensive... i have N/A but you have some things that i definitely don't have at all.

do they P&P our engines and for what price? i'm kind of clueless because mine is 122k and i don't really want to tamper with it.

i'd love to get my car on the dyno... how were you treated?

OdessitPashka

Adam, I honestly don't think it's worth doing anything to your car unless you plan on rebuilding the engine. 122k mi and boost might lead to a disaster smile.gif If you really love your tib, you should swap a fresh beta in it with a 5 speed conversion or just get a newer tib with less miles on it and work from there!

01tibby

elkton is like 2 hours away from dc hkc.