tdonnell

Just ran it at the dyno today, lol.

Car is a 1998 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0L DOHC Naturally Aspirated.

This dyno was done when the engine was heat soaked and the ambient (shop temp, lol) was around 80 degrees F. It was running (and always runs) on 93 octane.

Dyno Pic:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...dQuarter002.jpg

Engine Bay Pic:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...Pictures003.jpg

151.5whp
126.4 ft. lbs. torque

I had my intake cam advanced 13 degrees and my exhaust cam advanced 3, lol. That's hella advanced huh? That is what the butt dyno said was best, but next time I go I am going to bring it down to 6 degrees advanced on the intake and 1 degree retarded on the exhaust.

The pulls were done in 4th gear so maybe if I had done them in 3rd it would be higher?? I will have to try that next time I am there. Any tips as to which gear to pull in would be great.

Power modifications at time of dyno:

AEM CAI
65mm TB
Outlaw Phenolic Spacers (70mm TB)
Airram
SR 268 duration cams @ 9.2mm lift
HVE 4-1 stage 1 header
Custom 2.5" back exhaust w/2.5" magnaflow cat, 28" thrush glasspack, and 3" magnaflow muffler
SR pulleys and cam gear
Kspec intake sprocket
Fidanza flywheel
SAFC II

I'm getting my P&P head with oversized valves this week and will have new numbers when I run it on the dyno again. Hopefully another 10-20 whp if I am lucky with some cam and a/f tuning. As you can see from the a/f on the bottom of the dyno sheet, it needs some work, lol. I leaned it out a bit for the second run and got about 1.4 horsepower. I am going to make more runs and take some time to adjust my cam timing (will have to pull the valve cover off every time but it's not too hard).

Thanks.

REDZMAN

Oh wow, that's before the P&P?

Awesome. Can't wait to see the after.

01tibby

dude, you hit some ridiculously rich points in that afr graph. get something to fix that. not gonna help with power, but will with gas money.

JonGTR

Actually, it looks like the car liked the added fuel at that point. The HP and TQ went up exactly where that AFR hit 11:1.
I absolutely LOVE seeing Beta dyno graphs!!! There's so many Honda graphs out there with horrible TQ curves, and seeing a Beta TQ curve is a nice relief from them. fing02.gif

You want to continue doing your dyno runs in 4th gear. You need to run in the gear that is closest to a 1:1 ratio. Most cars happen to be that in 4th gear.

Thanks for coming through on the dyno and timeslip. Hopefully it will inspire more to do the same since quite a few have your mods. fing02.gif

OzFxCoupe

Very good numbers mate fing02.gif

When I get a few things sorted on my car I'll definitely be getting the thing on the Dyno. I'd be happy with anything over 134.1whp (that's a dead even 100kW over here wink1.gif )

I need to get some extractors too though.

Farken hell! I just realised that your car made maximum power at 6700-6800rpm.

tdonnell

Wow, a magically appearing thread, lol. Thanks for making this up redz (I guess it was you?). YOU can't wait to see the dyno's after the head, damn I am shakin in my boots to figure out what it'll do, LOL!

The car made max power at redline because of the cams mate, lol. I would like to see if I could make even more power up to around 7500, but the only way to raise the redline is to go standalone. I also think that some more ignition timing advance is in order as well, but again I am limited in that respect.

I was sooo happy to get the numbers I did, pretty smooth curves exept for the 4k problem. From what I have seen, betas around 4k have problems with their a/f. I wonder why that is?? I don't think the SAFCII will be enough to correct for that. Maybe the computer messes with the timing a bit at 4k as well, that would help to explain the richness a bit. You would think that it might add hp to richen it, but given the fact that when I leaned it out it gained a hp, that must not be true.

Thanks for all the awesome support guys, it feels really good getting respect like this, lol.

I went in hoping for 130 whp and came out with over 150, so you can imagine how happy I am.

On cold nighs the car feels so much faster, so if I dyno it on a colder day without the heat soak, I would expect the numbers to go even higher.

It seemed like the torque and power curves were just about maxed out at the stock redline, maybe some cam tuning will help that out.

Any guesses as to the power and torque gains from this P&P job with the oversized valves? If I get 15 whp out of it I will be happy (even though it cost me $1300 after the gaskets and fluids). I like to put out modest estimates and hopefully exceed them, that way I cannot be disappointed you know? One of my friends said he saw some of the port/polish work from the shop my head is at and was in awe with the quality of the work, so hopefully it is top of the line. The owner said he wants to put some pics up on their website of this head so it must be done very well.

BTW: I was looking at randoms dyno's, were they naturally aspirated as well? Maybe his numbers were so high because he pulled in 3rd gear?

How much power do you guys think I am making at the crank?

What do you guys think about high 13's on slicks NA after the head install, wouldn't that be SICK!!! I think I would crap myself, lol.

Thanks again for all the enthusiasm guys, any more questions or comments are more than welcome! cool.gif

OzFxCoupe

One more thing... how is it that your SR strut brace fits over the AIRRAM?

hamhead

I like the Honda-ish graph. cool.gif

Pulling in 3rd gear wouldn't make too much difference.

But yeah, the S-AFC II is a lil underpowered for what your trying to do. I hope it'll run decently after the head.

tdonnell

HAHAHA Oz!!!! That's why my friends all call my garage T-Diddy's Customs, lol. I actually modified the strut bar mounting brackets to be a bit higher than normal, then ground off a bit of the aluminum underneath the bar where the top of the airram is, and finally put some washers underneath the crossmember to lower the back of the engine a bit and it fits together PERFECTLY.

I was waiting for someone to ask that, lol. Pretty freaky at first sight huh? lmao.gif

I have always wanted to upgrade to an SMT-6, but I think the next step is going to be a PRS4 instead. Any links or recommendations as to where to get ahold of one? Price?

Only downside to the standalone is having to remove all of my parts and put the stock engine and computer back into the car for emissions.

I think I am going to grab a harness connector from another tib and try to use my 1.8L ECU connector to make a plug and play harness adaptor to make the swap easier.

Thanks.

Oh yeah, tibby 01, the a/f isn't so rich at light throttle, remember the computer goes into open loop under WOT. Although I did recently throw codes for a bank 1 o2 sensor inop. and bank 2 malfunction. My mileage also went down to 22.8 on my last tank from 27 average. There are no connection problems but it seemed weird for both of them to go at once, so I am leary to just replace them as it might not solve the problem. At least I know it is running richer at cruise rather than leaner, no engine damage possible here.

Alex01tib

Random had the alpine turbo kit, obviously not pushing much boost. His n/a dyno was like 116, i think it was just a stock baseline dyno, aka no mods.

I believe JonGTR made the thread since he has your dyno in his quote in the horsepower thread