Yes it has both. Thats what the extra outputs are for. You can also use one to control nitrous.
I have the stock ECU controlling the fans and the idle. There's no reason to do more wiring and programming.

 

It is interesting that this standalone seems to work 'with' the stock ecu instead of independently. I am intrigued. How could it control ignition timing beyond the stock ecu's limits if the wires are only spliced? Any additional info here is greatly appreciated Jon, thanks a lot for your help. Do you think I would be better off with the PRS4? I think it is what I am going to need. How does your car run without the IAC? I remember you mentioned somewhere that it is disconnected, I suppose air can still flow through it somewhat?

Thanks again everyone. cool.gif

 

with the fueling and ignition the wires are spliced near the stock ecu but are cut off.

 

It's running fine without it functioning. I think it's actually partially open when not in use. So that's where the air is bypassing. I'll have to double check later.

What I did with the PRS is I fully cut the injector wires from the stock ECU. Then ran them to the PRS. That way the stock ECU can't access them. The same goes for the coil wires. All the other wires just get tapped (not cut).
The stock ECU still has power and still reads every other sensor (crank, O2, etc.) so that it can operate everything else like the fans, a/c, idle. You just need to cut it off from the injectors and coils.

It's acting like a piggyback in a way.

 

Cool, kind of saves you all the work of independently wiring everything and fine tuning each individual output. Thanks for the info.

I am still curious why my exhaust smells like extra fuel or carbon when idling. And my a/f is around 16:1 average at idle, 12.8:1 at WOT (perfect for na). My plugs looked fine and I swapped the coil packs just in case. I am very puzzled and would appreciate any ideas or suggestions regarding this matter.

Thanks again ericy and jon. smile.gif

 

maybe its not the exhaust and is actually a fuel leak somewhere?

might want to check it out.

 

16:1 is a bit lean at idle,especially fora car with good cams,i'd shoot for around 14.5
at WOT you want to be around 13:1 -13.5:1

what i did with the perfect power TIC instal (can be done with the other stand alones),i used only the connector part of a stock ECU and used it to wire the TIC
this way the wiring of the car remained stock,making it easier to return back to stock or check for problem
that way i have full control of the ignition, and fuel based on RPM,TPS,coolant temp & air temp

BTW,one of the nice touch about the TIC is that it has internal ignitiers making it easier to wire up on our cars
like i wrote earlier,it's a basic stand alone but it has some nice touchs

 

TIC?? Is that a standalone too? Sorry didn't see it earlier.

My muffler tip now has a small 1/16" ring on the outside of the tip of black carbon I suppose? That means it is running rich right? Of course the inside of the tip used to be black, but the OUTSIDE now, it must be running rich as hell right? I don't think it is a fuel leak.

On another note, if I take off the oil cap, I can smell fuel badly(it isn't straight raw fuel, more like poorly burned fuel, for some reason I am thinking the engine isn't getting an effecient burn leaving too much fuel in the exhaust.) I think I am going to decrease the amount of overlap and take the ignition timing back to zero. The car may run slower, but if the smell goes away I will be satisfied. Is the cylinder head cracked or something? I shouldn't smell fuel in the valvetrain area of the cylinder head, WTF? I suppose during the overlap, some of the exhaust gases could be slipping up the valve guides and into the vavle train area?

It would be great if there was some small issue that when I figured it out, the car ran faster and smoother, but I am doubting that possibility. There has to be some type of a leak, whether it be air or fuel. I am still puzzled as to how the smell could get underneath the valve cover, crankcase ventilation??

 

i'd chek the car/engine first before doing other stuff..
on my car with the stock computer it drives fairly well and i get "decent" performance considering whta what done to the engine

don't go by exhaust tip color or stuff like that,especilly on a cammed engine
(at idle the cams makes it run rough wich means it's doesn't burn fuel like it would in stock form)
try getting a wideband,it's gonna be usefull for now and later ;-)

Yup the TIC is one of the newer stand alone from perect power,it's their entry level unit

 

I already have a plx wideband, which reads 16:1 to 19:1 at idle. That is where I have been getting all of the a/f numbers that I have been posting.

Do you guys think it could be the cat? I thought about removing it, it has had a lot crap since I got it 2 or 3 years ago, maybe it is a restriction now? It wouldn't cause the exhaust to smell that way would it?

Thanks.