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Scanned The Car, Need Help

Old Nov 8, 2007 | 10:02 PM
  #11  
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have you tired using the easy obdII software?...its the one that you dont have to install, just drag it your desktop...when i spoke with Jay-m, he said this is probably the best one to use
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 08:34 PM
  #12  
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^yep EasyOBD is the best of the three.

Oh man, yeah it says the cycle tests have been performed from my last drive and YES there is an Evap code P0455 - Leak in Evap system.

So DTN you're right it does come on and off. And my extension didn't work at all. I'm going to cry.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 08:58 PM
  #13  
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buy a new o2 sensor from autozone $40. you can swap it out with the 2nd one, then wait for it to warm up and watch the graph, if it starts moving you fixed one of the problems. If not, then try swapping the first o2 sensor. If you put the wrong sensor in, it will still fluctuate and work, but it will cause a CEL down the line.

If the sensor is not the problem, take a wire wheel to it to clean it up then put some dialectric grease on the threads and put it back in the box for a new unused return..... Not saying I know of anyone who has done that or anything..... lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif

I'm pretty sure one of your problems is the o2 sensor. Try getting that fixed first because it should be pretty easy. Then work on the TCU issue.

I don't know much about the evap system. You should be an expert by now though. I'm pretty sure you've put alot of thought into it by looking at some of your recent posts.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 09:21 PM
  #14  
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oh no i mean the O2 sensor extension works just fine!! the second sensor did start rotating which was great.

but the evaporation hose extension doesn't work... lol not much you can do from your computer but give me a pat on the back and wish me luck. maybe everything is fine but there's a leak. damnit i hate getting under there again. mad.gif

This is how the canister is:

This is how I extended it:
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 10:03 PM
  #15  
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^^ I hope it works out...

btw.. I have different oppinions on OBD software.
#1.DigiMoto4.03- The gauges are just ricey as hell. I love it. It's great for car shows for "extra gauges". But it cannot read TPS. I use it pretty much only at car shows which gets more use then anything else. I'd like customizable blue gauges though.
#2 Proscan 5.0- Does everything and then some. It's an excellent program. Try it out.
#3.easyOBD- for obvious reasons. it's a great program!
#4.Scantool.net- hard to use, but grouped well for isolating systems and large numbers too. good for driving.
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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #16  
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I just came back from a professional (i mean pro of pros) mechanic and he knew all about this, stole the words right out of my mouth. the computer decides how the solenoid functions, so extending the hoses is perfectly ok so long as all of the tubes are completely sealed and everything extended accordingly.

So i lubricated each hose with industrial strength craft adhesive (tough stuff!). Now there are no air leaks whatsoever. I know all about this now. The first nipple on the canister is for the fuel vapor that comes from the tank so no problem. The second nipple is for the purge which goes into the intake and creates pressure in the tank as well as the canister. third nipple is the air release that over certain periods of time releases leftover vapor into the open. the solenoid is there to hold pressure and release it through the other side. it doesn't constantly work, but only turns on when it needs to.

This diagram shows how it is directly connected to the fuel tank and the parts the vapor goes through:

and another perspective showing it is hooked up to a PCV:

the fuel tank line needs to be pressurized, or else the tank is not pressurized and therefore the computer will get wrong readings, and performance will be altered. It is connected to TCM, fuel tank pressure sensor and MAF sensor, that is why my gears were messing up in my Automatic, so the same goes for 5 speed.

The diagram shows Evap has nothing to do with performance my ass. if you wire everything together or just rip out the canister, you are royally 8888ed one way or another somewhere along the road.


the way i sealed it, i'd be really surprised if this sh(t shows up again. tomorrow i have to go to the exhaust shop and get the catalytic converter moved up front like it should be because i'm also getting a P0441 Catalyst below threshold. Also, the mechanic said to wait usually 3 days - 1 week of driving and the computer will do a perform cycle for the Evap system. He also told me there is an easier way of performing a drive cycle just from standing! it has to do with like I said before, entering a code; running AC, doing some other stuff... I absolutely did not know that! DTN you have helped me like nobody else on this forum.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 04:28 AM
  #17  
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Once I reset my ECU, drove short drives to and from work, a/c on a/c off as was specified in another drive cycle. All tests were not complete within about week. I assumed it would never set the codes. I don't worry about it anymore as it really does not matter. I do not have inspetion and for some reason, once my car learns how to drive itself, it looses power. So I reset the ECU again.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 10:31 AM
  #18  
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i don't know if it takes a lot longer for a drive cycle to complete, it probably takes a lot of long hours of constant driving. i went for a drive to school yesterday and mine wasn't complete at all. no freebies.

that powerloss is what i'm talking about, it seems to just lag like the engine isn't pushing full power. usually if you don't hav a CEL then i think you're ok, but you might also have punctured one of the hoses so check that area. it is held by a bracket so you don't have to take it apart to inspect it. when i connected all the hoses together, the tank was overpressurized it was crazy sometimes for a few moments the car would seem to have a boost of power after driving on the highway. it was sooo crazy, and fast for a few seconds, but definitely not normal.

my powerloss went away after i hooked up the purge and fuel so the tank was pressurized but the code still came up for a leak and i'm certain that it was because i didn't seal off the hoses before.
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Old Nov 17, 2007 | 08:07 AM
  #19  
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found this, thought it would help
Attachment 265

Wish I had found it earlier.
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 09:48 PM
  #20  
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HKC, you're right about evap affecting performance. I've been driving around with an evap leak for hte past month. I don't remember what my car feels like without the ECU in shit-fit mode. C'mon and be right, dealer!
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