Scanned The Car, Need Help
11-08-2007, 04:29 PM
#1
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Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
I finally scanned the car! I need your help though.
Full exhaust Maintec GT headers and relocated only my 02 sensor after high flow catalytic converter. I also did the Evaporation Canister relocation by extending all tubes and keeping the solenoid plugged in.
Sensor 1 Voltage: .83, .12, .24, .68, .79 (it keeps rotating)
Sensor 2 Voltage: .46 (constant)
Fuel trim 2.3%, 3.9%, 5.5%, 7%, (Keeps rotating; + Rich)
Calculated load: 2%
Ignition timing: 4ﾃつｰ
MAF (Mass Air Flow) 3.22g/s
Coolant temp. 204.8ﾃつｰ
IAT (Intake Air Temp.) 60.8ﾃつｰ
Error Codes:
P1613 - Subject regarding automatic transaxle diagnostic trouble code p1613/1614. (found these from google, that must be from the auto-manual swap??)
P0134 - Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
the scantool reports ***NO EVAP SYSTEM CODES*** whatsoever:
long story made short. i did my relocation properly on my automatic. everything ran just fine, and so claimed rd1tib that no other evap relocation using tube extension worked but mine! then i had the transmission swap. later worried about water, i cut my first intake to install the bypass valve. bottom half of the intake fell off during driving and with it my doomed black evap filter and tube with it. i had to order a new filter but there's no hose labelled on webtech. so i temporarily put a clear hose in (because it's just a tube) and it kinked. when i took the car to emissions, the kink caused an evap code. i have replaced it with a gas hose and made sure it was straight. no evaporation cannister codes are showing up on my scantool.
Can you help me determine the two codes I have now? I'm not sure what to make of this data and am inexperienced on the readings.
Full exhaust Maintec GT headers and relocated only my 02 sensor after high flow catalytic converter. I also did the Evaporation Canister relocation by extending all tubes and keeping the solenoid plugged in.
Sensor 1 Voltage: .83, .12, .24, .68, .79 (it keeps rotating)
Sensor 2 Voltage: .46 (constant)
Fuel trim 2.3%, 3.9%, 5.5%, 7%, (Keeps rotating; + Rich)
Calculated load: 2%
Ignition timing: 4ﾃつｰ
MAF (Mass Air Flow) 3.22g/s
Coolant temp. 204.8ﾃつｰ
IAT (Intake Air Temp.) 60.8ﾃつｰ
Error Codes:
P1613 - Subject regarding automatic transaxle diagnostic trouble code p1613/1614. (found these from google, that must be from the auto-manual swap??)
P0134 - Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
the scantool reports ***NO EVAP SYSTEM CODES*** whatsoever:
long story made short. i did my relocation properly on my automatic. everything ran just fine, and so claimed rd1tib that no other evap relocation using tube extension worked but mine! then i had the transmission swap. later worried about water, i cut my first intake to install the bypass valve. bottom half of the intake fell off during driving and with it my doomed black evap filter and tube with it. i had to order a new filter but there's no hose labelled on webtech. so i temporarily put a clear hose in (because it's just a tube) and it kinked. when i took the car to emissions, the kink caused an evap code. i have replaced it with a gas hose and made sure it was straight. no evaporation cannister codes are showing up on my scantool.
Can you help me determine the two codes I have now? I'm not sure what to make of this data and am inexperienced on the readings.
11-08-2007, 04:44 PM
#2
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Sensor 1 Voltage: .83, .12, .24, .68, .79 (it keeps rotating) is normal. scan ONLY that and put it on a graph mode. It should switch between rich and lean. that's how our cars maintain stoichometric fuel ratios with a narrow band o2 sensor. look for a steady waveform of up down up down.
Sensor 2 Voltage: .46 (constant) car just started up? it will match the 2nd o2 sensor after it warms up or call a code
Fuel trim 2.3%, 3.9%, 5.5%, 7%, (Keeps rotating; + Rich) about normal... I get 0% after fuel injector cleaner and cleaning my MAF
Calculated load: 2% normal. you had your A/C off. With A/C on it will go to 3%
Ignition timing: 4ﾃつｰ Below 10 is normal
MAF (Mass Air Flow) 3.22g/snormal
Coolant temp. 204.8ﾃつｰnormal. shouldn't exceed 224. coolant boils higher then water
IAT (Intake Air Temp.) 60.8ﾃつｰ cold day eh? it will raise when the car warms up.
Error Codes:
P1613 - SBDS (Service Bay Diagnostic System) interactive codes (what the F is that??)
P0134 - Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
the scantool reports ***NO EVAP SYSTEM CODES*** whatsoever: evap codes will only be set after completing 2 hyundai drive cycles. I'm looking up the other codes now.
you have a automatic?
Sensor 2 Voltage: .46 (constant) car just started up? it will match the 2nd o2 sensor after it warms up or call a code
Fuel trim 2.3%, 3.9%, 5.5%, 7%, (Keeps rotating; + Rich) about normal... I get 0% after fuel injector cleaner and cleaning my MAF
Calculated load: 2% normal. you had your A/C off. With A/C on it will go to 3%
Ignition timing: 4ﾃつｰ Below 10 is normal
MAF (Mass Air Flow) 3.22g/snormal
Coolant temp. 204.8ﾃつｰnormal. shouldn't exceed 224. coolant boils higher then water
IAT (Intake Air Temp.) 60.8ﾃつｰ cold day eh? it will raise when the car warms up.
Error Codes:
P1613 - SBDS (Service Bay Diagnostic System) interactive codes (what the F is that??)
P0134 - Oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
the scantool reports ***NO EVAP SYSTEM CODES*** whatsoever: evap codes will only be set after completing 2 hyundai drive cycles. I'm looking up the other codes now.
you have a automatic?
11-08-2007, 04:46 PM
#3
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DTN, prepare yourself for some massive leg humping. Hahaha, yeah it's gotten cold up here so you got another month or so cool.gif
I think P1613 is the automatic transaxle, from the auto-manual swap. My mechanic told me that one of the codes was from that, it must be that. And you got me scared about the evap, do you mean after the car has started the code will only show up after driving twice?
I think P1613 is the automatic transaxle, from the auto-manual swap. My mechanic told me that one of the codes was from that, it must be that. And you got me scared about the evap, do you mean after the car has started the code will only show up after driving twice?
11-08-2007, 04:55 PM
#4
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HMAService says the p0134= bad 2nd o2 sensor, bad wiring or disconnected sensor. If while driving at any time you see it act normally after warming up, it's the front O2 sensor sending the bad data and keeping your car rich or lean.
the P1613 is for auto tranaxels. It says you've got shorted wires.
you probly need to replace your ECM with a manual transmission ECM or remove the TCM to get rid of that code.
Most codes will turn off and turn back on after 2 ignition cycles. A drive cycle is more complicated....
Attachment 253
Basically go on the highway and get off at every exit a couple of times.
the P1613 is for auto tranaxels. It says you've got shorted wires.
you probly need to replace your ECM with a manual transmission ECM or remove the TCM to get rid of that code.
Most codes will turn off and turn back on after 2 ignition cycles. A drive cycle is more complicated....
Attachment 253
Basically go on the highway and get off at every exit a couple of times.
11-08-2007, 05:10 PM
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goodness i did not know any of that. it's like a cheat code to a video game. holy grandma.
i think i can work out a new 5speed computer, or going back and having TCM removed, you think that will just eliminate the code? i can do that after emissions.
shit, so the evaporation code might still be lingering around? it was on when i got my emissions done and i failed because of it but that might have been from the kink. what if it doesn't come on during the next emissions test? i didn't know it was that complicated, thought it went on only when something was wrong.
i think i can work out a new 5speed computer, or going back and having TCM removed, you think that will just eliminate the code? i can do that after emissions.
shit, so the evaporation code might still be lingering around? it was on when i got my emissions done and i failed because of it but that might have been from the kink. what if it doesn't come on during the next emissions test? i didn't know it was that complicated, thought it went on only when something was wrong.
11-08-2007, 05:15 PM
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quick way to check... does your "constant monitoring" report all tests completed or N/A? Those are the drive cycle tests. They require alot of data to be compiled. So if they are all completed, then there's nothing to worry about.
It so is like a cheat code in a video game. You can see exactally what the car is thinking.
It so is like a cheat code in a video game. You can see exactally what the car is thinking.
11-08-2007, 05:18 PM
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wow... im just so happy that my OBD-II are being used effectively around here... keep it up fellas!!
oh, on the evap code... sometimes the pressure in the gas tank affects this and just make sure that the gas cap is good and closed properly
oh, on the evap code... sometimes the pressure in the gas tank affects this and just make sure that the gas cap is good and closed properly
11-08-2007, 05:28 PM
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HAHA yeah maybe i should start calling my car Christine instead of Scarlet? lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif
i have to check, but i think it said Constant Monitoring. maybe Jay-M you know if it scans all of the cycle tests?
yeah the OBD to the laptop really helps solve this mystery, and with DTN's help i can just see what's finally going on with the car. Jay-M, i might have to give you a call sometime, Digimoto has the option of reading the evap system. It says it's successfuly connected but all readings are 0%.
fuel pressure used to vaccum up when i had done the hyundaiperformance DIY. it doesn't do that since i tweaked it. if everything else fails, i'm looking forward to just doing SplinterCel's wiring extension but i'll have two solenoids so i'll create a plug for the wire so it's reversable and be done with it. i mean if this works and its fullproof there's no reason to go farther, but if it fails i've got to just buy another complete canister.
i have to check, but i think it said Constant Monitoring. maybe Jay-M you know if it scans all of the cycle tests?
yeah the OBD to the laptop really helps solve this mystery, and with DTN's help i can just see what's finally going on with the car. Jay-M, i might have to give you a call sometime, Digimoto has the option of reading the evap system. It says it's successfuly connected but all readings are 0%.
fuel pressure used to vaccum up when i had done the hyundaiperformance DIY. it doesn't do that since i tweaked it. if everything else fails, i'm looking forward to just doing SplinterCel's wiring extension but i'll have two solenoids so i'll create a plug for the wire so it's reversable and be done with it. i mean if this works and its fullproof there's no reason to go farther, but if it fails i've got to just buy another complete canister.
11-08-2007, 05:33 PM
#9
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Jay-M @ Nov 8 2007, 07:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>wow... im just so happy that my OBD-II are being used effectively around here... keep it up fellas!!
oh, on the evap code... sometimes the pressure in the gas tank affects this and just make sure that the gas cap is good and closed properly</div>
Me too. If anyone needs a link to how you can get all of this information, <a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072" target="_blank">http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072</a></a> It comes with a lifetime supply of burritos. HKC just started his lifetime supply. Because he didn't go to a mechanic, he now can go to taco bell instead.<span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"> </span>
2 things a 0% means... either it is not supported on our cars, or the program cannot support it. Try another program. I think we don't have a sensor for that. All that really matters is the DTCs and the constant monitoring codes.
oh, on the evap code... sometimes the pressure in the gas tank affects this and just make sure that the gas cap is good and closed properly</div>
Me too. If anyone needs a link to how you can get all of this information, <a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072" target="_blank">http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=20072</a></a> It comes with a lifetime supply of burritos. HKC just started his lifetime supply. Because he didn't go to a mechanic, he now can go to taco bell instead.<span style="font-size:10pt;line-height:100%"> </span>
2 things a 0% means... either it is not supported on our cars, or the program cannot support it. Try another program. I think we don't have a sensor for that. All that really matters is the DTCs and the constant monitoring codes.
11-08-2007, 06:06 PM
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ok so the Evap check is framed as Non-Continuous, but all tests say Completed and the only N/A one is for the sensor. also my P0134 is gone but the reading says i'm warming up my car lmao.gif damn smart computers, all know what i'm up to.
all those programs are the same, EasyOBD is the best i think. so according to the Scan tool, and DTN, my MAF is a little dirty laugh.gif good stuff. Burritos on the house if i pass emissions!!
all those programs are the same, EasyOBD is the best i think. so according to the Scan tool, and DTN, my MAF is a little dirty laugh.gif good stuff. Burritos on the house if i pass emissions!!