well, replaced fuel injectors and reset ECU...

car accelerates like she used to..YES!!!!!!!! and no more CEL's. We'll see if they pop up again later on.

Only problem is I think I fvcked sumthin up when I replaced injectors. My car idles really really high right now. Like I'll start the car and it will start up real fast (no more lag with bad injectors) but....

it idle's at 2,000-2,300 for a short period then slowly dies down to 1000. When it gets to 1000 it runs rough and LOUD! My car friggin sounds like a muscle car (at idle), no joke...like deep and grumbly. But I hate it!

I messed up the throttle cable when I was installing injectors but I re-tightened it and started car again. It still idle's high, I don't know what to check now. I'm takin a break..

any ideas.

I also noticed this:

my car won't die!! I could have it in 1st gear and COMPLETELY let go of the clutch pedal, not touch the gas and it would just slowly go down in rpms and then start moving forward...

Could these problems be caused by a throttle cable that's TOO tight. (taught).

 

you can adjust idle with the idle screw. either way, sounds like an easy fix.

 

But wait. It can't sound like a muscle car. It's an import.

 

haha....only at idle REDZ. once I step on the gas my car just screams "I'm an import!!!!!!"

lmao.gif

okay, I need to do all this:

-Check LT (Long Term) fuel trim. If over 10%, check fuel pressure.
-Check AFS calibration against known good value.
-Check for proper operation of EGR and purge control valve.
-Mist spark wires and check for arcing.
-Remove spark plugs and check for evidence of carbon tracking.
-Perform cylinder leakage (leak-down) test.
**If leakage is less than 10%, continue to step 7.
**If leakage is 10% or greater, remove the head to perform valve job. (See specifics in cylinder head section).
-Check fuel sample from the inlet (bottom side) of the filter to check for the presence of water or contamination.
-Check intake air supply for evidence of oil in the air cleaner or on the AFS.


anyone car to translate into understandable newb language? Like 3/4 of those, I have no cluse what to do (what the abbreviations mean).

sad.gif

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Patreezy @ Oct 30 2005, 11:35 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I also noticed this:

my car won't die!! I could have it in 1st gear and COMPLETELY let go of the clutch pedal, not touch the gas and it would just slowly go down in rpms and then start moving forward...

Could these problems be caused by a throttle cable that's TOO tight. (taught).</div>


Um...we can all do this smile.gif

If you let your foot of the clutch slowly you will start to move forward...Is that what you mean?

OR

Do you mean to release fast and it doesn't die? Maybe because your idle is that high that it doesn't do when you remove your foot off the clutch.

 

uh, I know. It's when I release all pedals at once in gear..car doesn't die like it should.

It used to. so, I know I'm not trippin' lmao.gif

thanks for your help anyway tanc.

I'll adjust idle, but I still need to check all those items. Because I know my problems aren't going to go away. I think my engine is just old and I need a new one. mad.gif

 

god, what a nightmare! just in time for halloween!

Patreezy, i hope this sh*t doesn't have anything to do with the evap cannister. i "repaired" mine like you said and it's fine now except the CEL which i hope are 02 wiring related problems...

i have some of the problems listed here. the problem with cars is their symptoms are shared with other problems. i got airbag light, CEL, and radio lights don't work. my car idles below 1000rpm when it's cold out and the injectors make ticking sounds. my sister's tiburon feels way more powerful than my car.

i will get my mechanic to inspect my car in a few weeks and check everything. i'll tell you what i needed changed soon.

 

hkc, you sure its your injectors? could be your valves. i would change your oil with some nice synthetic oil to see if it goes away.

 

HKC, first things first (quit copying my car). lol, well...I supposed I copied your car's problems. then for some reason you decided to copy mine.

Check those codes:

see if any of them are
P0300 - Random Misfire Detected.
P0301 - Misfire cylinder number 1 very likely
P0302 - Misfire cylinder number 2 very likely
P0303 - Misfire cylinder number 3 very likely
P0304 - Misfire cylinder number 4 very likely
and
P0446 - is the EVAP cannister code, it could be anything. purge valve not reading right. cracked vacuum line, could be cuz tank is missing, who knows.

^^These are all related codes!!!
For future reference:

ANY TIME YOU GET A MISFIRE CODE CHECK THESE SYSTEMS:
IGNITION SYSTEM
Check spark plug tubes on four cylinder engines for moisture
Inspect the spark plugs. Are the plugs fouled? Are they the correct specification?
Check spark plug cable resistance (maximum 4000 ohms per foot of cable)
Check for arcing between plug cables (mist the cables with water and look for small sparks)
Check ignition coil. Are codes set for companion cylinders? Check primary and secondary coil resistance as described in the Shop Manual. Use HDS to evaluate the ignition in Signal Wave Forms (see HDS Plot #1). For 2.0L Sonata use the Red lead and back probe the connector at the coil.

MECHANICAL
Check oil level. Is contamination (dirt, sludge, or fuel) present? Is the oil the correct weight?
Perform a cylinder leak down test with the engine cold. Be sure the engine is not fuel flooded. Leakage results should be 10% or less.
On specific cylinder misfire codes, replace intake and exhaust hydraulic lash adjusters for the cylinder that is misfiring. Inspect lash adjuster bore (prior to installation).
Check cylinder head bolt torque using the following procedure:
Set torque wrench to 45 lb-ft (61 Nm, 40.5 Kg.cm).Check each bolt in sequence as described in the Shop Manual (for Elantra refer to TSB# for proper sequence) to determine if they are at a minimum of 45 lb-ft (61 Nm, 40.5Kg.cm). If any of the bolts are not at the minimum torque, loosen all the bolts and retorque in the proper sequence as described in the shop manual or TSB.

SENSOR OPERATION
Check CAS signal using HDS (see HDS Plot #2 and 3). Conduct visual and "wiggle" test of harness wires and connections to CAS and PCM while monitoring the wave form on HDS.
Accent and Elantra system: monitor HDS to check the acceleration sensor (output voltage at idle is 2.3 V - 2.7 V) while applying sharp blows of the rubber mallet to the left hand (LH) shock tower. Look for sharp spikes in signal.
Using the scan tool, check CTS And intake air temperature sensor (ATS) values when vehicle is cold. Values should be close to ambient temperature.

FUEL SYSTEM
Check fuel injector signal(s) using HDS and/or "Noid Light" (Snap-on part number FID8339). Conduct visual and "wiggle" test of wires and connections while monitoring the wave form on HDS (see HDS Plot #4 And 5).
Clean the injectors (perform after hydraulic lash adjuster replacement).
Check fuel pump/tank/filter for contamination (corrosion, debris, and water in fuel).
Swap injectors from cylinder to cylinder to see if the code follows the injector.

__________________________________________________ ______________________________
__________________________________________________ ______________________________

If only one cylinder has a mis-fire:
Mist spark plug wires and check for arcing.
Remove spark plugs and check for evidence of carbon tracking.
Perform cylinder leakage (leak-down) test.
If leakage is less than 10%, continue to step 4.
If leakage is 10% or greater, remove the head to perform valve job. (See specifics in cylinder head section).
Replace spark plugs. Lightly apply dielectric grease to the spark plug wire tip/boot base.
If misfire is in cylinder #4 (P0304) on Elantra or Tiburon, loosen and retorque the M12 cylinder head bolts to 26 ft-lbs + 60° angle + 60° angle.
In the misfiring cylinder, swap injector with another cylinder.

If mis-fires are paired (ex. P0301 and P0304 OR P0302 and P0303)
Mist spark plug wires and check for arcing.
Remove plugs and check for evidence of carbon tracking.
Perform cylinder leakage (leak-down) test.
If leakage is less than 10%, continue to step 4.
If leakage is 10% or greater, remove the head to perform valve job. (See specifics in cylinder head section).
Replace the coil.

If multiple cylinders have misfire codes, and/or there is a random misfire code
Check LT (Long Term) fuel trim. If over 10%, check fuel pressure.
Check AFS calibration against known good value.
Check for proper operation of EGR and purge control valve.
Mist spark wires and check for arcing.
Remove spark plugs and check for evidence of carbon tracking.
Perform cylinder leakage (leak-down) test.
If leakage is less than 10%, continue to step 7.
If leakage is 10% or greater, remove the head to perform valve job. (See specifics in cylinder head section).
Check fuel sample from the inlet (bottom side) of the filter to check for the presence of water or contamination.
Check intake air supply for evidence of oil in the air cleaner or on the AFS.

If mis-fire code only occurs on cold start-ups
Check oil level and viscosity for evidence of "thick" oil.
Check for after market oil filter (no bypass valve).
Mist spark plug wires and check for arcing.
Remove plugs and inspect for carbon tracking.
Perform cylinder leakage (leak-down) test.
If leakage is less than 10%, continue to step 6.
If leakage is 10% or greater, remove the head to perform valve job. (See specifics in cylinder head section).
Check oil pressure against established standards. Service relief valve, orifice plug, or replace case to correct excessive oil pressure situation.
Replace hydraulic lash adjusters.