Cel Galore!
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,976
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From: Arizona
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
Haha, my car is skr3wEd!!!!
LOL
let's see here:
P0300 is RAndom Misfire Detected
P0301 and P0302 are misfire at cylinder 1 and 2 (respectively) detected.
P1123 = Fuel trim additive, system too rich
^^ These are the ones I need help with
_____________
This one below, we'll worry about later, it has something to do with the way I inter-connected the Evap cannister hoses.
P0446=Cannister close valve permanently closed...
_____________
Anyway, why is cyclinder 1 and 2 misfiring. The CEL was even flashing at one point, that means misfires detected 2% per 1000rpms. That's bad. The car doesn't run bad though. (sorta lags when launching).
I thought this was the problem: when my muffler fell off my car I had been driving without it. This caused the idle to be really low, like below 800. The P0300-0302 codes will go off if idle is detected to be lower than 800rpms. Also my brake light (e-brake) kept coming on with the CEL's. Weird.
I welded the old muffler back on, no leaks..and voila the CEL's and E-brake light went away. (Car still kinda lagged when launching).
Now after like 1000 miles of driving with no CEL all these codes come back.
I have good spark plugs...gapped correctly and good spark plug wires. Wires are NGk with like 10K miles on them and plugs have less than 5K on them (also NGK).
So what coudl cause mis-fire besides plugs and wires? I have a feeling it is fuel injectors (probably still OEM equipped on my vehicle).
I believe this because EVERY TIME I fill up my tank and go to start the car (w/ full tank) the starter keeps turning and car doesn't start until I let off pressure form key. Usually it should start quicly (within seconds) and I shouldn't have to stop turning the key to get it to start.
^^THIS ONLY HAPPENS right after I fill up my tank, all other start-ups are fine.
What should I do to fix these codes, P0300-0302 and the too rich code, P1123
??????????????????????????????????????????????
And how do you check the fuel injectors properly?
thx guys, sorry for the long ass post, but I have lots of driving ahead of me and don't like to drive when car doesn't want to be driven.
Yeah I know, I'm whipped...the tib definetely wears the pants in this relationship. LMAO lmao.gif
Tib-----> spankme.gif <-------Me
-Patrick
LOL
let's see here:
P0300 is RAndom Misfire Detected
P0301 and P0302 are misfire at cylinder 1 and 2 (respectively) detected.
P1123 = Fuel trim additive, system too rich
^^ These are the ones I need help with
_____________
This one below, we'll worry about later, it has something to do with the way I inter-connected the Evap cannister hoses.
P0446=Cannister close valve permanently closed...
_____________
Anyway, why is cyclinder 1 and 2 misfiring. The CEL was even flashing at one point, that means misfires detected 2% per 1000rpms. That's bad. The car doesn't run bad though. (sorta lags when launching).
I thought this was the problem: when my muffler fell off my car I had been driving without it. This caused the idle to be really low, like below 800. The P0300-0302 codes will go off if idle is detected to be lower than 800rpms. Also my brake light (e-brake) kept coming on with the CEL's. Weird.
I welded the old muffler back on, no leaks..and voila the CEL's and E-brake light went away. (Car still kinda lagged when launching).
Now after like 1000 miles of driving with no CEL all these codes come back.
I have good spark plugs...gapped correctly and good spark plug wires. Wires are NGk with like 10K miles on them and plugs have less than 5K on them (also NGK).
So what coudl cause mis-fire besides plugs and wires? I have a feeling it is fuel injectors (probably still OEM equipped on my vehicle).
I believe this because EVERY TIME I fill up my tank and go to start the car (w/ full tank) the starter keeps turning and car doesn't start until I let off pressure form key. Usually it should start quicly (within seconds) and I shouldn't have to stop turning the key to get it to start.
^^THIS ONLY HAPPENS right after I fill up my tank, all other start-ups are fine.
What should I do to fix these codes, P0300-0302 and the too rich code, P1123
??????????????????????????????????????????????
And how do you check the fuel injectors properly?
thx guys, sorry for the long ass post, but I have lots of driving ahead of me and don't like to drive when car doesn't want to be driven.
Yeah I know, I'm whipped...the tib definetely wears the pants in this relationship. LMAO lmao.gif
Tib-----> spankme.gif <-------Me
-Patrick
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Well, to start, are you sure your getting spark? Take the plug off and set it on the frame. Have someone crank the car and see if there is a spark (try one of the cylinders that wont fire.
Check your coilpacks. It sounds intermittantly, so it could be them.
Check Injectors... If one sticks open, that cylinder wont fire (too much fuel).
Check your coilpacks. It sounds intermittantly, so it could be them.
Check Injectors... If one sticks open, that cylinder wont fire (too much fuel).
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
^^ Ye, just because the plugs are new doesn't mean they are in good shape. Take em out and look. Coilpacks are another thing that could probably cause this.
Run some injector cleaner if you want as well.
Run some injector cleaner if you want as well.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,976
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From: Arizona
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
can anyone explain the brake light? i know very well my brake is not engaged.
it never came on until those CEl lights came on. It never came on for the 1000 miles of driving after my muffler was put back on. Not until the CEl codes popped up. How can either an:
o2 sensor
injectors
or even wires
cause my e-brfake light to come on, constantly.....?
REDZ, see first post for wires. They are NGK with 10K miles on them. I pulled them while the engine was running to see if engine jumps. All wires passed the test, including 1 and 2. i did this test because I do not have voltmeter.
I have no time to work on car before ABQ, so looks like I'm driving like this (not bad...)
But I may have to figure it out there, wutever.
it never came on until those CEl lights came on. It never came on for the 1000 miles of driving after my muffler was put back on. Not until the CEl codes popped up. How can either an:
o2 sensor
injectors
or even wires
cause my e-brfake light to come on, constantly.....?
REDZ, see first post for wires. They are NGK with 10K miles on them. I pulled them while the engine was running to see if engine jumps. All wires passed the test, including 1 and 2. i did this test because I do not have voltmeter.
I have no time to work on car before ABQ, so looks like I'm driving like this (not bad...)
But I may have to figure it out there, wutever.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 34,642
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From: Los Lunas, New Mexico, USA.
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
Your ebrake light may be on because something is in the way down there.
As for the rest. When you get here we'll look at it good. I'd agree with the o2 Sensor deal. One item can cause a lot of trouble.
As for the rest. When you get here we'll look at it good. I'd agree with the o2 Sensor deal. One item can cause a lot of trouble.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 6,976
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From: Arizona
Vehicle: N/A as in Not Applicable, not Naturally Aspirated
K...
cuz if I race like this I'm gonna be getting like 3-4 sec 60ft times, LOL. The lag is horrible, unless I rev to like 4-5K first.
cuz if I race like this I'm gonna be getting like 3-4 sec 60ft times, LOL. The lag is horrible, unless I rev to like 4-5K first.
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Joined: Dec 2002
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My Ebrake light is on almost permanantly now. It has something to do with my alternator. Its like when there are issues with electrical in the car, the ebrake light comes on????