really^^

cuz I was thinking it's either of two things...

1.) Like you said Chris, the electrical problems and all the codes are causing the brake light to come on (cuz Koreans smoke crack when they designed my car....LOL).

OR

2.) The new e-brake cables installed were like an inch shorter than the drum brake cables. When I swapped the brakes I swapped the cables and I loosed the nut 6 turns to get the old lines off and tightened it 6 turns to put the new DISC lines on. Maybe I should have only done 5.....???? (cuz it's like an inch shorter).

^^But if the later were true...I would FEEL the brakes in the rear engaged. I don't, the lag I feel when lauching is from misfires not brakes. Because once a certain rpm is reached the car takes off and stops misfiring.

Thanks for all the help guys. It'll get fixed this weekend hopefully...

 

I just thought of something?

If it IS the o2 sensor then why hasn't the faulty O2 CEL code (Psumthin, 0136 I believe or 0135).

AND...

why would a bad 02 sensor cause my car to start funny right after filling up my car with gasonline.

I'll make this easy:

Let's play I spy;
I SPY something:
~that causes my car to lag when first staring to move
~that causes codes P0301, P0303, P0300, and P0123 to show up
~that elongates the time it takes to start my car right after re-fueling (like too much fuel is spraying in, too rich..that's probably why it's not starting unless I let go of the key)
~that really pisses me off!


I'm leaning toward bad # 1 and 2 injectors. Maybe all four. Does that sound right? I'm trying to make time to check them out tonight, not sure how but webtech owns and will teach me...

 

try repairing the canister purge problems first, maybe the canister is fully saturated and "flooding" the car out a bit, a car can have a bad o2 and not set a code (if the sensor switches at all it won't trigger a light),
try for a short while taking the gas cap off and see how it runs, usually a bad coil pack won't give you a cyl 1-2 usually 2-3 or 1-4 are the teamed up cylinders, also check for a leaking fuel pressure regulator.
if the probs are with filling p of the gas tank start with the evap system.
hope this helps

 

Make sure your alternator isnt over charging...you can get some crazy lights from that such as some of the ones youve listed and airbag etc. It prolly isnt or you would notice your radio screwin up etc unless you have a stock radio. Its a possibility tho, an over charging alternator could be causin some funky lights and possibly burnt up your coil pack causing misfire, or youre wires are burnt up.

 

yeah, good point. evap can could be causing this whole mess. I though that was completely seperate.

Reason I thought this was seperate is cuz this set of codes happened before already (w/o that EVAP one) and they all went away for 1,000miles after I welded the muffler back on.

But you're right, I'll check it out.

I don't really know what could have happened. I removed the cannister and made sure to connect all three left over hoses correctly to ensure a closed circuit (but maybe you need that cannister there). I know sparticus and others have successfully done tis removal without CEl galore...hmmm?

I'll check that purge valve is plugged in, no crack in hoses (cuz they are bent funny under there), and that nuthin looks funny down there. If nothing's wrong with the T-connection I think I'm screwed, cuz I don't know any other way of going around that EVAP cannister problem succesfully. Unles I relocate it to the rear like the RD2's have them. I'm not givin' up my AEM dammit. mad.gif

 

Did you ever run a can of B12 thru there?

 

^^no

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (silvergt @ Sep 29 2005, 01:33 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>try repairing the canister purge problems first, maybe the canister is fully saturated and "flooding" the car out a bit
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
The thing is, I have no cannister. It's been removed. The purge valve is still there and plugged into the system, but it's not connected to the purge valve like it's supposed to be. Instead it's directly connected to the two other hoses that would usually go into the cannister, ...basically I just eliminated the cannister out of the situation *to make room for the AEM).

 

Are you kidding me?

Dude.

Run out to wallyworld and pick up a can of b12 Chemtool. Put it in your tank, NOW>

 

wtf is a wallyworld?

what is the Arizona equivalent of that store? LOL

Hint: Schucks Auto Supply = Checker's Here and I've seen one other.

but, wallyworld....?????????

 

Wallyworld = Wal-mart.

I agree, take care of what you know is wrong (evap) which might reduce where you have to look.