I'm back, with a new Coupe
#12
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Vehicle: F2 Evolution
Yep, as mentioned I'm after OEM16s, have just 1 of them at the moment, it's a good 2kg (4.4lbs) lighter than an OEM 15. Ok so 2kg a corners not much, but as its wheels its 8kg less unsprung weight.
Immaculate example, low miled and kept as they left MSD's factory after the re-fitting are now worth noticeably more than early GKs, and the price of them has gone upwards since I last looked for one. Derinately need to keep it origional. Only cosmetic change I want is remove the orange side repeater and replace with clear ones.
Under the hood is a different matter though. It's getting a workover, nothingh to extreme though, it's a daily driver.
#13
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Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
HKC is gonna have a heart attack when he see's this...
I've watched the UKHCC forum go from 98% RD1 to 98% GK. Screw GK's and (most) GK drivers. YEEEE HAW! WE GOT US AN F2 BOYS!
during the time I owned the Gen3(GK) I realy thought it wasn't as good as my old Gen1(RD).
Owner of 2.0 gen1 and 2.0 Gen3, and I can confirm the Gen3 is a BIG step backwards!
Owner of 2.0 gen1 and 2.0 Gen3, and I can confirm the Gen3 is a BIG step backwards!
Most all 2000-2010 Hyundai models are backwards. I for one cannot bring myself to spend a lot of money and admire something that has many flaws. I don't see how the GK is a better design, with exception of increased proportions (which can be considered good).
The 1996 RD Tiburon (unlike the Celica or Integra for the matter) is a gem of a design that pushed automotive boundaries by making flat, bland, boring surfaces into exciting ones filled with unified thematic shapes and bends. Each panel is an engineering revelation that invented the standard found in today's latest Hyundai's.
The only thing the F2 cheaped out on is the rear wing. They should have made the widebody F2. It wouldn't have cost them much, and would have looked/felt more like the Dodge Stealth or Mitsubishi 30000000000GT.
Tom (if that is your name), you are welcome at hyundaiaftermarket.org! It's a stunning car and I'm glad that you picked a fresh one up, although I am aware that the burgundy one went to the scrap yard?
#14
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
Yep, that is my actual real name given to me by my one and only mother.
I wouldn't say that the new Tib is "fresh" by any stretch, but I am glad to have another one. And the old one was silver not burgundy. See this thread
You were talking to me right?
#15
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My names Tom too, and my old Gen1 was burgundy, which got scrapped. Theres a new race series started in the Uk for Gen1s and 2s, http://www.coupecup.com/ , plan was to use it for that, however between overtime getting taken off me at work, and having a baby, that plan had to change.
The F2 Evos (F2 is an earlier special with normal SE wing) rear wing has beeen designed by a F1 aero guy, and is meant to actually create some downforce at higher speeds, whereas the normal SE wings just cosmetic.
The only things i did prefer from Gen3/GK was cvvt, when it worked, intermittent failure of this caused no end of problems, wrong timings etc that lead to 2 engine rebuilds and has killed the engine again.
The other one was the stock airbox. Bigger inlet and outlet openings, flows in 1 direction, and once resonator's removed, still takes air from behind battery and not next to the headers like the RD does.
So i took that, removed the inside pipe.
before
after
drilled a hole for temp sensor, used some smooth pipe, add a K+N panal filter, and I now have a better flowing airbox without the heatsoak of a cone filter. This re-worked airbox route is becomming popular over here, where modern cars have very crammed engine bays, and theres just nowhere cold to put an open filter. My other cars a 200BHP NA honda, 3 out of the 4 indutcion improvements for it, with proven gains, are airboxes.
Finally, a shot of the dials.
The F2 Evos (F2 is an earlier special with normal SE wing) rear wing has beeen designed by a F1 aero guy, and is meant to actually create some downforce at higher speeds, whereas the normal SE wings just cosmetic.
The only things i did prefer from Gen3/GK was cvvt, when it worked, intermittent failure of this caused no end of problems, wrong timings etc that lead to 2 engine rebuilds and has killed the engine again.
The other one was the stock airbox. Bigger inlet and outlet openings, flows in 1 direction, and once resonator's removed, still takes air from behind battery and not next to the headers like the RD does.
So i took that, removed the inside pipe.
before
after
drilled a hole for temp sensor, used some smooth pipe, add a K+N panal filter, and I now have a better flowing airbox without the heatsoak of a cone filter. This re-worked airbox route is becomming popular over here, where modern cars have very crammed engine bays, and theres just nowhere cold to put an open filter. My other cars a 200BHP NA honda, 3 out of the 4 indutcion improvements for it, with proven gains, are airboxes.
Finally, a shot of the dials.
#16
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Well, that makes a lot of sense
However your post is making me consider swapping my stock air box back in to replace my warm air intake, which is probably only hurting mileage/performance
However your post is making me consider swapping my stock air box back in to replace my warm air intake, which is probably only hurting mileage/performance
#17
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The stock RD airbox is poorly designed, resonator restricts, remove resonator and intake hole is next to the headers, ie hottest place it can possibly be. It then has to change direction twice inside the airbox. With the GK box, it flows straight from bottom-right-front corner to top-left-rear. The intake is also over to the side, so should be cooler air going in.
If you roll up the panal filter, it's not that much smaller than a cone, so surface area pretty good. That inside pipe blocked off half of it, hence getting rid of it.
Proper CAIs work only when you can get them somewhere cold, RD doesn't have anywhere unless you remove the fog lights, or have it so low you risk hydrolocking on a rainy day. At least GK you have the hole into the inner wing where the resonator sat, putting a filter in there gets good bhp gains, at expense of a little thorttle response due to longer pipe.
If you roll up the panal filter, it's not that much smaller than a cone, so surface area pretty good. That inside pipe blocked off half of it, hence getting rid of it.
Proper CAIs work only when you can get them somewhere cold, RD doesn't have anywhere unless you remove the fog lights, or have it so low you risk hydrolocking on a rainy day. At least GK you have the hole into the inner wing where the resonator sat, putting a filter in there gets good bhp gains, at expense of a little thorttle response due to longer pipe.
#19
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best thing is to experiemnt for yourself, theres no definitive best route for air induction, I've tried a few things, and this was my preference.
#20
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If you want to get technical about it, bust out a home made manometer and start checking for pressure drops/voids within the intake tract. Some of the stock stuff flows surprisingly well.
Also those resonators can be there to help power, as they cancel harmful intake reversions at certain RsPM.
Also those resonators can be there to help power, as they cancel harmful intake reversions at certain RsPM.