nos4atu has the prefect idea,mI do mine just a hair diffrent though. what you need to do, is buy another kit, I like the felpro kit for the beta, it comes with two tubes of rtv and one gasket, put a decent layer on the PAN, place gasket one top of Rtv, then put another layer one top of the gasket, and this stuff sets fast so no time to f*ck off and make it look like sex. Then toss it one but once you can it on place ALL bolts in proper holes, and snug slowly and evenly, then let sit for about 30 minutes, then come back and finsh the job, but tightening the bolt up about another full turn.

 

A 255lph fuel pump should not generate enough more pressure than a stock pump that it can overwhelm the stock fpr if feeding a stock engine.. Also, if its feeding a stock engine on returnless system it won't flow more fuel than the stock pump, it's just capable of flowing far more if the demand is there. Now if you're trying to feed a boosted engine through the stock fpr it will become difficult because of the additional flow beyond what the stock fpr is designed for.

 

you guys are great, i had a feeling it was supposesed to be like that, but in the haynes manual it says only rtv? so now i gotta scrape all this off and redo it );; bummer, but hey i love my car so its worth it huh, im sure everyone has had to redo something similar, its bummer because its under the car and i only have stands not a lift

 

No biggy and it is fairly simple to do, just time taking, and is easier with an extra hand!



Also for all you fuel pump experts here, So i had a stocker, turbo and stock regulator were out flowed, i put an inline fuel pressure gauge to make sure the pump was actually working in spec, and it was, it was a a pretty constant 36psi, then when i swaped the stock over to a 255 high pressure fuel pump, why the f*ck did my idle pressure ski rocket to 63 psi AT IDLE??? Please explain! Also this completely made me have to retune my vehicle as the flow was not controlable at all. Had to get a Adjustable FPR in order to set a idle pressure. Yea it has the capability your right that is why i have one. Not sure how it would not generate more pressure. You would have to have more pressure to have more flow, as there DIRECTLY RELATED. Not INDIRECTlY. Basically what i am getting is that with the increase of flow you will have less pressure...?? This sounds alot like the civic boys runing 20psi on a t25 turbo and a total of 20lbs minute and trying to dog me cause i am only runngin 19psi on a t3/t4 at 54lbs minute. I am confused.



Also tellign me that this graph is identical to a stock graph....???

255 fuel flow



Why would we need to upgrade pumps then?



Why before when i was running with a stock pump, I got lean anywhere after 4K????



Why after i swaped pumps i got uncontrolably rich???

 

I should explain that I have done a lot of work with municipal piping systems, gravity and pumped, so I am familiar with the math and processes at work here. I'm not just pulling this out of my ass.



To explain the problem you had, your regulator wasn't working. It's that simple. I can't speak to the reliability of the Hyundai fpr's, but that was your problem. Whether that would be a common problem or not, I am not sure. Whether it was from the new fuel pump or not, probably.



Sure, to push more fuel through a pipe of a given size there is only one way to do it, more velocity. You attain this velocity through higher pressure. However, a stock pump should be physically capable of significantly more than 36PSI, as should the high flow pump. In fact, it is possible that a low flow pump could be capable of vastly higher fuel pressure than a high flow pump. pressure and flow are NOT directly related unless you add another piece to that puzzle, pipe size. In a given pipe system, pressure and flow are directly related. However you could have a 1000lph pump that's only capable of 3PSI and a 3lph pump capable of 1000PSI.



Or, you can have 2 fuel pumps, both capable of 75PSI as installed in the same fuel system, but one flows 125lph max and the other flows 255lph. Think of PSI like torque...you can exert both without any motion happening. So at zero flow both pumps exert 75PSI. As flow increases there will be a point where the 125lph pump can no longer maintain 75 PSI. Let's say that's at 30lph. However this theoretical 255lph pump can provide 75PSI until you're demanding 60lph. Beyond where the pumps can maintain their peak PSI, if you have a fpr you will not lose flow until the PSI drops below the regulated PSI level. Once that happens that pump is no longer capable of supporting your needs.



Sure, the 255lph fuel pump might be able to (probably) generate somewhat more peak PSI than the stock pump, and that may be enough to overwhelm the stock fpr. But it's not inherent to the pump's flow rating, even if we are only talking about fuel pumps. I don't know the open max PSI rating on the stock fuel pump. If it is significantly lower than the Walbro the then swapping in the Walbro could cause problems for the FPR at idle.



To provide adequate PSI levels with increased demand.



Because the lower flow pump could not maintain adequate PSI at the flow levels you were demanding.



Because your FPR was broken or incapable of handling excessive PSI from the new pump. But if so, that PSI is just that, excessive. There is no need for a high flow fuel pump to generate more PSI than you will need. It seems more likely to break the FPR under a high flow high pressure condition like a WOT pull, the velocity required to maintain operating PSI with the flow you need carries a lot more energy through that FPR than an idle condition. Once it was broken it would probably just feed straight unregulated pump PSI up the lines all the time.

 

Thanks you Floyd, i appreciate your time, Also I would like to adde, that when i had removed my stock FRP i cut the top off to make sure the regulator was still intake and looked decent, and indeed it did, there was no reason why it shouldnt handle the Psi, just the fact that the factory one wasnt built strong enough, and when the Walbro pushed it open it didnt have enough guts to clamp down to slow the fuel. That is my take. Yet, with a RRFPRP everything is swell now.



Thanks!!!!

 

ok as u guys now, 1st attempt on the ne oil pan leaked, well this time i took Turborob 99s advice, i used rtv, gasket, then rtv again and its was a pain in the A** but i managed to get it in there, snug and what not, im gunna let it cure overnight, then tommorow il clean up the silicon mess on the car lol, then hopefully when i pout oil in its all good, im pretty confident thouh but not knowing before going to bed sucks lol, but hey wish me the best (;; hopefully she will be running soon, tomorow il tighten up the bolts alil more just to ensure a tight fit

 

B)

 

Good luck!

 

ok leaking again, same spot, what am i doing wrong? i give up i dont even feel like working on her anymore, she is pissing me off so bad to the point were shes not gunna be driven (;;;