I may have one or two of those. And i get the sarcasm.. lol i can measure it myself. I have a parts list somewhere to make them as i was thinking of making these a while back using left hand and right hand threaded heim joints so they wouldn't need to be disassembled to adjust them. But i wasn't sure of what size to use or what location use to mount them without being too low or interfere with suspension travel.

 

I'm interested to see how those traction bars turn out as well. That's one of the many things on my list to do, but it's a bit further down the list.

 

Guys, it's still in "development". This is basically where I'm at. lol











The rest of the system is easy to do, but the brackets and the precise placement of the support bar under the subframe takes time to locate. While I could easily just drop it 2-3" straight down, that wouldn't be very driveable since it would sit so low to the ground. It also needs to be placed in an optimal front to back location. I've just about got it down though.

Shouldn't take me months to develop as it did with APE and Flyryde.







I'm using my time right now making this since I'm playing keep-away with UPS and my turbo. Majestic shipped it out Friday, with signature confirmation. But, UPS likes to deliver packages when you're at work, so... Gonna pick it up at lunch.

 

Picked up the turbo. Majestic made it nice and shiny with some high temp paint. Got it back on the car, started her up......hooray, no more smokey exhaust!

 

I spoke too soon!!!





There's a reason why I haven't updated in 10 days. When I first started it, it was only for 2 minutes. I went back outside the next day to resume tuning and noticed SMOKE AGAIN!!! Still out the exhaust, and it pours out a steady stream. I started to do a little diagnoses as I blamed my setup. But gave up and called John at Majestic. He asked me a ton of the usual questions....oil pressure, feed lines, restrictor, blow-by, return size and routing, etc. He offered to take the turbo back for inspection, but obviously at my expense if he finds nothing wrong with it. So I need to be absolutely SURE it is not my setup.



Days go by.



Is it the turbo leaking? So I took off the manifold, disconnected the oil line, and started it up. No oil pouring out of the exhaust ports, so valves are sealed. Definitely the turbo. Check!



Day goes by.



I then began checking the oil return. Although it's not the straightest path, it's still 10an and worked for years this way. But, in an effort to eliminate all possibilities, I bought better fittings and cut the line shorter for a straight path to the pan. Check!



More days go by.



I then looked to see if the pan return fitting was anywhere near the oil line. It's at the highest point possible on the pan and I know everyone does the same thing, but again, I had to be sure there was no oil blockage. Check!



More days....



My oil feed is 4an with a .060 restrictor running 80psi oil pressure cold down to 40psi warm. The perfect setup according to Majestic and Garrett, so nothing wrong there. Check!





Next up was blowby. I needed to know if the pressure in the crankcase was blowing oil back up the drain line. I had only 1 10an fitting on the side of the valve cover evacuating pressure. Since I haven't run a Tib motor in so long, I forgot about what kind of pressure should be coming out of a fitting that size. Seemed like a lot. So, I added another 10an port and determined I'm going to have to break down and get a REAL catch can setup. It is a drag car and when I put the motor together, I used Wiseco's widest ring gap recommended for a blown drag setup. That means there should be a little more blowby than stock. But, I then began to doubt myself and whether I put too much gap in the rings. Did I screw up and now am getting too much pressure? In any case, I'm going to need to add a vent down in the block and relieve the pressure where it comes from. This would make sure without a doubt that it's vented and not rely on the oil passages to move the gasses up to the valve cover. So I bought $300 more in fittings, lines, and a catchcan.

Next up, I did a compression test. I have a leakdown tester in the snail mail. So I'll do that when it comes in. But as for the compression test: 187, 185, 186, 185. Check!



Sometime in the last day or so, the thought came to me: Why not just eliminate the bad drain and blowby possibilities in one step? Remove the drain!!!



I bought a syphon pump from harbor freight for $7, 5qts of oil, and a bucket. Unscrewed the oil return line from the pan and directed it into the bucket. Placed bucket under pan return fitting. Filled the motor with oil up to the fitting. Added a quart in the bucket for play. Started it up, began pumping, and looked for the oil stream....



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SBy5wxCmC0





Still leaking!!! So, with all this deduction, I've narrowed it down to a BAD REBUILD! Only took 10 days of wasted time.





I'm going to call John first thing in the morning and send this thing back.

 

before you send it back I'd measure the oil pressure at the turbo. I'm assuming your measuring at the OE location that's why the 80 cold and 40 warm? Only way to really know how much oil the turbo is seeing is measure it at the inlet fitting. Is there oil in the turbine or compressor outlets?

 

I have a brand new Prosport Premium sensor at the end of the head's oil galley. I'm feeding oil to the turbo 6" down from the middle of that galley.



I'm not getting a single drop of oil in the compressor housing/intake system.

 

Did Majestic give you a detailed description of what they did? Like "Replaced compression seals, replaced bearings..etc"? Or was it just the lame "Turbo rebuild $$$$"



Majestic definitely does not have a spotless record that's for sure.



http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252087

 

I talked to one guy initially. Said they would need to machine it and cost $100 more. Then got a call it was done and it cost less. Got the turbo and talked to John. He said they didn't need to machine it and it just got the standard rebuild, but maybe with oversized bearings. Typically leaks like this have to do with oil not returning correctly then pushing its way out the piston ring. They did a pretty good job at cleaning the housings, so I would assume they cleaned the inside and it's not coked up. And since it's such a steady flow of oil pushing past the ring, there's got to be a blockage somewhere inside. Even a bad ring won't leak that much if the oil is returning properly.



I had good service from Majestic before, but after doing some more research in this, I started to see more complaints. I hope John takes care of me. Either way I'm posting my experience across numerous medias. What he does from here on out determines whether it's good or bad publicity.

 

Hmm........they used oversized bearings but didn't machine the shaft? Maybe they just polished out any scratches but that typically won't require an oversized bearing to compensate. Does the shaft spin freely with little to no resistance?