Yup, building a 4-link system to handle the 1000tq being applied to my axles. The only way I can climb Colorado terrain to get to you.







I filled the Tib with oil last night and idled it for a bit. No signs of leaks so far.





Time to get tuned, then the real fun begins.

 

Yay! Hopefully your done before I'm done with GK..



Oh, FYI, a buddy of mine with a 92 MR2 Turbo is installing an Elite in his ride. Gonna hopefully play with it soon.. Its flex fuel set up is 2nd only to OE ECUs.

 

Let me know how it goes and how Haltech's support is with it.

 

Glad to hear you are making progress, I look forward to seeing some video soon!



Best of luck getting her tuned!

 

I'm always taking videos/pics.



We'll see how much he likes the E6K. He knows about it, but when you really start the tuning process, the interface becomes a headache. I'm sort of preparing for him to say "get lost and don't come back until you have the Elite."

 

There hasn't been a lot of posting on the forums lately, so I'll just throw in random thoughts and updates.





Mocked up the fuel system under the car and it's not going to be as easy as I thought. There's not really a good place to mount 2 filters and the pump behind the tank, so I'll probably have to mount them all in-line under the driver's seat. Although I bought plenty of -8 hardline, it looks as though I'll only use maybe 4 feet of it. From the second filter to the tank, I'll end up using -10 nylon braided fuel hose with push lock fittings. This enables flexibility of the short distance between the filters and pump.

The pump is rated at 14amps. This means the 12g wire that I just got done tucking through the center console to the factory pump housing, and wrapping up with the rest of the Haltech harness, may need to get changed to 10g!





Speaking of push-lock fittings. I got a bug and started doing extensive research on using them for my vacuum lines. They're much lighter than using metal barb fittings and rubber hoses. However, there was one little catch that doesn't come up too often. Most of the hose that is being sold, is only rated to 140 degrees, and I haven't found any rated higher. Quite a few people have had the lines melt on them, or they had to change the WG tubing back to rubber. As I've said many times, this build is a "do it once build", so I'm going to sacrifice the weight and stick to the old rubber lines, barbs, and fuel clamps. Especially when it comes to boost control.

 

I'd think you'd be OK with 12 gauge wiring for a 14 amp draw. Is that continuous or max? Figure your voltage will be 13.5 or higher with the car running, and that will reduce current draw vs. 12v.



Good call on avoiding the nylon push-in fittings. I'd rather be safe than sorry myself. There is no way those lines would hold up to the temps that the rubber lines that go to my wastegate do.

 

Yes, ampere charts put 15 amps right on the border of needing 10 gauge, however the pump is rated MAX at 14. Oh well, worst case is the wire melts. lol As long as it doesn't catch fire.



There's a Firestone brand airhose out there somewhere rated for higher temps, but I couldn't find it and didn't care to spend that much time in locating it.

 

Just fuse it for 20A. I think the fuse will go before the insulation on the wire melts.

 

I'm not sure yet how I'll be wiring it. I forgot how and where I wired the factory pump to the Haltech. I'm fairly certain I switched the ground, as you should....







I'm preparing for spark blowout one day and wanted to have this all ready to go. I already have the DIS-4, I just didn't want to clutter the engine bay until I needed it. But, I wanted to go back and research the wiring for my own application (COP's) and prepare a wiring diagram. Not sure if anyone else will need it.