Update: Last year I ran the car at the track in December. Went 12.04 @ 121 mph. Made a dyno pull at 20 PSI and had 315 whp 305 tq with an air fuel ratio below 10:1 (my own fault, didn't have any E85 in the tank & I usually run about 20-30% to lean out the mixture and fend off detonation). I'm now running around 23 PSI and fabricated a side exit exhaust for fun .



Only issue I'm having is some oil in the compressor housing. I think I need to vent the crankcase pressure better. Currently I have the valve cover vent routed to a catch can but that's only 5/16" hose. I'm thinking I need to do at least -10AN, only problem is our valve covers are plastic and I can't weld fittings onto it.



Any suggestions?

 

a smaller restrictor in the turbo feed line should do the trick .? and 12.04 in a beta 1

 

Thanks for the suggestion Regit but I've already got a Forced Performance .030" restrictor in the oil feed line to the turbo. I ran into an oil consumption issue with unrestricted -3 AN line going to the ball bearing Garrett GT3071 (heavy blue smoke after idling for more than a couple of minutes). Apparently you must restrict the oil going to ball bearing turbos or it pushes past the seals. Since the shaft on a BB turbo rides on bearings (not a film of oil like on a journal bearing turbo), it requires substantially less oil. Check out this FAQ section from Garrett: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/faq



I'll get her into the 11's at some point. Pretty amazing the engine hasn't gone yet. No blowby whatsoever, no blue smoke out the exhaust even at 23 PSI! The weak link was the diff, but I've got a Quaife now. Seems like the next weakest point is the clutch now. I'm also astonished I've never broken an axle, of course it probably helps that I've got solid stainless front and rear engine mounts (eliminates wheel hop completely).



The oil in the turbo compressor inlet is extremely likely to be caused by excessive crankcase pressure. I've got to devise a strategy to put some -10 or -12 AN fittings into the plastic valve cover to help bleed off all the additional pressure from the moderate boost. Why couldn't they make the valve cover out of aluminum!?! I could just TIG weld the fittings onto it then!

 

I ran into the same type problem with the valve cover and am currently running two -6an braided lines into a catch can, it does an ok job but this season I too will be making the switch to -10an.



Am headed to poke through the rest of this thread now...if there are no videos I demand some.

 

3rd gear went bye bye about a month ago... I still need to pull the trans and dis-assemble to inspect the damage. Hopefully I can save the case and rebuild. I'm tired of buying transmissions!



I made a -12 AN setup off the valve cover, it came out great. Welded up my own catch can too. Used a 90 degree bulkhead fitting off the valve cover next to the oil fill cap. This way the fitting isn't exposed to oil splash (just above the splash plate under the oil cap area).



I'll try to upload some videos or pictures.



2013-03-08_14-08-20_765.jpg

 

Update:



I got a junkyard trans in the car (swapped the diff over) now, Beta 1. Also picked up the conversion kit from Denis but undecided on a clutch (still using the CM stage 4 pull style). I'm leaning toward a CM stage 5 6 puck unsprung lol.



Finally removed my AC and wired up 2 step!!! Setup the Aux In. on the Haltech (which was used for AC) for anti-lag and wired it to the horn button. Hold the horn button down, hold the pedal to the floor and at 5500 RPM the timing is pulled 35 degrees and more fuel is added (+40%) to equal 15-17 PSI! Then dump the clutch in 2nd, let go of the horn button to stop the anti-lag function and watch the tire smoke lol.



I relocated the alternator to the back of the engine to allow for a smoother downpipe too.



Also finally picked up a rad-cap for the auto trans tiburon (1.1 bar or 16 PSI). This will increase the boiling point of the coolant by 12 degrees Fahrenheit to total roughly 265F.



Really enjoying working on and driving this car!



Next up is a smoother downpipe and larger radiator. I noticed Mishimoto doesn't make rad's for this year Tiburon anymore. I'm hoping I can adapt a 2004-2008 Tib radiator... I'll have to go to a junkyard and take some measurements...

 

so . . . you have no horn now, or you just honk the horn while doing the little go-fast dance?

 

Tdonnell, I can confirm that you an XD radiator will fit in an RD without any issues. I currently have an all aluminum radiator from eBay that was meant for an XD sitting in my engine bay and it works flawlessly. The top may sit a little higher than the RD radiator but it will work. Hope that will help you out a little

 

Thanks for the information SpoolinShark!



I have no horn currently. However I'm considering wiring the right side horn button to operate the horn and isolate the button on the left side of the wheel for two step operation.



But that is a project for another day!

 

I use a aftermarket big mitsubishi rad, just have to relocate bottom rad hose to other side with aluminum welder....