Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

Ericy's Turbo Build Pics

Old Sep 12, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #11  
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Is it me or do the ARP 12mm studs look really loooong? When I used the studs on my beta 2 I had to put shims under the nuts to get it to clamp down properly.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 02:26 PM
  #12  
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Looks awesome!,should be able to hit 400 with that Gt35/meth/nos fing02.gif ,I won't with my Gt30 /meth sigh.gif, no plans on nos for me.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 03:30 PM
  #13  
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if you really want to make POWER. the turbo you should use is

a greddy TD06-25G or a T04S

right now i am wonder witch one i am going to use.

what is you block beta 1.2 XD GK i will get you a head gasket from here..

and yes you need 3 ARP washers on the 12mm studs.. ARP only. if you use any other type they will deform under the load and the stress.. a Korean man here would not listen to me and so he payed the price for thinking this white boy is full of shit..

now if you have access to top head porting shops there. get it done..to copy me even more use msd 1000cc inj and 274 cams and you now have what i call a engine.. this is how it should be made guys follow ericy lead..



ps..


cover that engie in plastic or double bag it with a a large trashbag and seal that puppy while its on that stand..
before i come there and kick you sQuare in the nuts..
and if you are done with the bottom end go ahead install the oil pan asap because
dust is not you friend..

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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #14  
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Haha. I got the pan on and its all wrapped up buddy, no worries.

Its a Beta 2 engine from an Elantra. The ARP studs did need washers and I lost a nut so need a new one. MJ, any translation for those torque numbers?

Head build is in the future on my spare head. 1mm OS valves, titanium retainers and locators, all the good stuff.

What kind of exhaust flange do those Greddys use?

Let me know on a head gasket I suppose also. THanks MJ
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 05:33 PM
  #15  
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I found this online:

1 foot = 12 inches
1 inch = 25.4 mm
1 foot = 12*25.4 mm = 304.8 mm

1 Kg = 2.2 lbs

1 Kg/mm = 2.2 / 304.8 = 0.0072178 lb/ft

In case you wanted Kg/M to lb/ft (more reasonable) this would be

1 Kg/m = 2.2/0.3048 = 7.21785 lb/ft.


So 14KG/mm = 101 lb/ft

7 KG/mm= 50.5 lb/ft
8 KG/mm= 57.7 lb/ft
9 KG/mm= 65 lb/ft
12 KG/mm= 86.6 lb/ft

You might want to wait for verification from Mad John though.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #16  
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OK anyone doing this and following DO NOT use those numbers. I thought they looked a little high for some reason but going through and doing it I actually broke the last stud. Snapped right off. I dont know why this happened but I think it was just to much for the stud. Im going to hope MJ steps in here and has something. I'm not sure if it was a bad stud or if the numbers are just off. I was using the ARP lube and on the sheet they provide they do recommend lower torque with that compared to using oil as a lube. I kinda hope I can just replace the stud and hopefully not take the head off. I dont think it will cause any damage to anything doing this as all other bolts are torqued to the spec MJ gave. BUT, if its actually WAY to tight I have to take them all off and get a new head gasket anyway.

So MJ, whats the word man? I was going to use this head gasket just to keep rolling but now that is kinda shot. So let me know whats up. I want to figure out that manifold to soon. Ill get a measurement on my current one for you tonight some time.
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:06 PM
  #17  
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Yowza! Sorry to hear about that.

Tighten to specs only! Recheck after a few hours/days of running but geez that's why they have a torque spec. (torque +turn +turn for stock, dunno what ARP says about their studs)

Consider installing Singh grooves in the quench pads in the combustion chambers, while the head's off. 2 hours, tops, and you've got a nearly detonation-proof engine. . .
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Old Sep 15, 2008 | 09:12 PM
  #18  
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Its really wierd how it happened. All the other ones got tight and were fine and on the last one at the last torque it snapped. When I went to take the nut off the broken stud, it wasnt even tight. I took it off with my finger. Figured I would need to get it in a vice and really work at it. Damn. Im not sure whats up.

Im strongly thinking its a stud issue and I got a bad one or something. Im emailing around to get a new one. Should be able to get it for nothing Im hoping.
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 07:55 AM
  #19  
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That's freaky. Contact ARP and see if you can swing a new one, free. They might want the old one back. Was this the one that got the replacement nut (you said you lost a nut)?
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Old Sep 16, 2008 | 11:22 AM
  #20  
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No, found the nut and it went on a different one.
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