Went To The Track Yesterday
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
Awesome! fing02.gif
If you plan on getting better tires, then shell out $300 for a pair of slicks on stock rims. And then get the traction bars from Chris. I bet you'd hit 2.0's to put you in the mid 14's.
What exactly are your traction problems? Peeling out, or wheel hop?
If you plan on getting better tires, then shell out $300 for a pair of slicks on stock rims. And then get the traction bars from Chris. I bet you'd hit 2.0's to put you in the mid 14's.
What exactly are your traction problems? Peeling out, or wheel hop?
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Mods (as many as I can remember, lol):
AEM intake
65mm TB
Outlaw phenolic spacers (don't do much)
Airram IM
SR Hi cams - 268 degrees duration IN/EX, 9.2mm of lift (what is stock?) (Need better tuning than SAFC)
HVE stage 1 4-1 header
Custom 2.5" header back exhaust with high flow cat, thrush glasspack, and 3" magnaflow muffler (get compliments all the time on the exhaust NO buzz lol)
SR water and crank pulleys
Removed P/S (not for long, lol)
1 stage colder plugs due to cams
Stage 3 gripforce clutch
Fidanza flywheel
Windo-welded mounts (wheel hop is NO problem at all)
Various weight reduction such as removed spare tire and back seats, etc.
The problem is not wheel hop at all, like I mentioned I windo welded the front, rear and tranny mounts, it definately does not hop.
The main problem is perfecting my launch. I ran 19 PSI in the fronts and the usual say 32 in the rear. I would get to the burnout pit, yank the e-brake, burnout a bit while turning the wheel to ensure posi as best as possible. After a few seconds of that, I would let off the e-brake and continue at WOT till just before the line where I would finish staging. Trust me, I can do all of that quite well.
It is not a problem of only burning one tire, it spins posi. When I launch, I take it to about 4500 and try to feather the clutch just a bit, but it will just spin (both tires). Anyway, when it spins, it goes to about 6000 and I just hold it out until it grips, then shift right before redline (I never hit redline).
I am a good driver except for launching, and I'm not TOO bad at that. I just dont do it that often (I don't beat on the car in 1st gear from a stop).
I think the problem is also the tires, lol.
I tried launching at a lower rpm, but due to the cams it just bogged at about 2500 and I got a 2.4 60' 02.gif
I really think an ecu re-flash and a P&P head would give me an easy extra 15-20 hp. I would take the redline to about 7250?? I'm sure the cams would make power that high, and it should be reliable as long as I don't go up there ALL the time, lol. And the P&P would help it flow better too. What do you think as far as gains regarding this? I really should be mid-low 14's with my mods right?
BTW: I always have misfire codes for every cylinder and a random multiple miss. It came on just a couple days after I did the cams. My only guess is at idle and anything under 2k it misses a bit (gotta love the lumpy idle though tongue.gif !). There is no hesitation or lack of power high end at all. Everyone says to get it taken care of but I am a mechanic and there are no intake leaks, the plugs look perfect (went a stage colder - stays a little richer at idle and light throttle now), and the wires should be fine (changed from nology crapwires to OEM's). The only possible cause would be the fact that my secondary coils are testing about .5 ohms higher than spec, but every tib secondary coil I have tested (about 4) have all came up with that reading. I just think the miss codes are coming up because of the massive jump in duration (from 228 intake and 232 exhaust to 268s)?
Thanks for the comments and help guys.
AEM intake
65mm TB
Outlaw phenolic spacers (don't do much)
Airram IM
SR Hi cams - 268 degrees duration IN/EX, 9.2mm of lift (what is stock?) (Need better tuning than SAFC)
HVE stage 1 4-1 header
Custom 2.5" header back exhaust with high flow cat, thrush glasspack, and 3" magnaflow muffler (get compliments all the time on the exhaust NO buzz lol)
SR water and crank pulleys
Removed P/S (not for long, lol)
1 stage colder plugs due to cams
Stage 3 gripforce clutch
Fidanza flywheel
Windo-welded mounts (wheel hop is NO problem at all)
Various weight reduction such as removed spare tire and back seats, etc.
The problem is not wheel hop at all, like I mentioned I windo welded the front, rear and tranny mounts, it definately does not hop.
The main problem is perfecting my launch. I ran 19 PSI in the fronts and the usual say 32 in the rear. I would get to the burnout pit, yank the e-brake, burnout a bit while turning the wheel to ensure posi as best as possible. After a few seconds of that, I would let off the e-brake and continue at WOT till just before the line where I would finish staging. Trust me, I can do all of that quite well.
It is not a problem of only burning one tire, it spins posi. When I launch, I take it to about 4500 and try to feather the clutch just a bit, but it will just spin (both tires). Anyway, when it spins, it goes to about 6000 and I just hold it out until it grips, then shift right before redline (I never hit redline).
I am a good driver except for launching, and I'm not TOO bad at that. I just dont do it that often (I don't beat on the car in 1st gear from a stop).
I think the problem is also the tires, lol.
I tried launching at a lower rpm, but due to the cams it just bogged at about 2500 and I got a 2.4 60' 02.gif
I really think an ecu re-flash and a P&P head would give me an easy extra 15-20 hp. I would take the redline to about 7250?? I'm sure the cams would make power that high, and it should be reliable as long as I don't go up there ALL the time, lol. And the P&P would help it flow better too. What do you think as far as gains regarding this? I really should be mid-low 14's with my mods right?
BTW: I always have misfire codes for every cylinder and a random multiple miss. It came on just a couple days after I did the cams. My only guess is at idle and anything under 2k it misses a bit (gotta love the lumpy idle though tongue.gif !). There is no hesitation or lack of power high end at all. Everyone says to get it taken care of but I am a mechanic and there are no intake leaks, the plugs look perfect (went a stage colder - stays a little richer at idle and light throttle now), and the wires should be fine (changed from nology crapwires to OEM's). The only possible cause would be the fact that my secondary coils are testing about .5 ohms higher than spec, but every tib secondary coil I have tested (about 4) have all came up with that reading. I just think the miss codes are coming up because of the massive jump in duration (from 228 intake and 232 exhaust to 268s)?
Thanks for the comments and help guys.
Moderator


Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
nice times!!
but like i said earlier, don't worrytoo much about the missfires codes, they are indeed caused by the cams ;-)
but like i said earlier, don't worrytoo much about the missfires codes, they are indeed caused by the cams ;-)
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
^^Don't have a webhosting account for pics, you need one to do that right??
Yeah denisst99, I am 100% sure the car only misses at idle. You are probably the only one who agrees and knows this as well.
I know this because sometimes the CEL will go off when I start the car. If I don't let it idle at 800 (hold it at about 1500-2000), the light doesn't come back on. But as soon as it sits idling at normal speed for more than a minute, BINGO, lol. Thanks for the info though, kind of reassures me that there is nothing wrong.
Yeah denisst99, I am 100% sure the car only misses at idle. You are probably the only one who agrees and knows this as well.
I know this because sometimes the CEL will go off when I start the car. If I don't let it idle at 800 (hold it at about 1500-2000), the light doesn't come back on. But as soon as it sits idling at normal speed for more than a minute, BINGO, lol. Thanks for the info though, kind of reassures me that there is nothing wrong.
Moderator


Joined: May 2001
Posts: 7,166
Likes: 6
From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,334
Likes: 0
From: Tampa/St Petersburg
Vehicle: Turbocharged 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tdonnell)</div><div class='quotemain'>There is no doubt in my mind that with a little better 60' times and a cool, non-humid day I will be 14.8's or lower.</div>
LOL, finally somebody guestimating times and being right lol.
14.83 is pretty good for N/A eh?
LOL, finally somebody guestimating times and being right lol.
14.83 is pretty good for N/A eh?
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
^^^Yeah, I don't think anyone else here is in the 14's (that has actually run at the track) with just n/a mods - no nitrous. I have been thinking of doing a 60 or 75 shot of NX. What do you guys think? I would say an easy 13 after that. Maybe 13.5's with the 75. Could the engine take it? Of course it would be a wet shot with fuel enrichment as well.
I will check out the imgage hosting sites.
*EDIT* I uploaded a bunch of pics to photobucket, I'll try to post them up in the general showroom.
I will check out the imgage hosting sites.
*EDIT* I uploaded a bunch of pics to photobucket, I'll try to post them up in the general showroom.


