i sold him the TIC (it's a perfect power product)

if you don't come up with anything and you really need to try another set of injectors,drop me a note and i'l lsend you a set i just flowed and tested that way you'll be 100% sure
once done ship them back to me

 

^^^ Will do, thanks.

 

I've got an update with some good news for a change.

First, changed the advance on the intake cam to 6 degrees, 1 degree of advance on the exhaust side, I might adust it down with the exhaust gear to 5 intake and 0 exhaust.

Second, relocated first o2 sensor, car runs PERFECT at idle now, 14.4-15.2:1.

Third, finally welded in an exhaust hanger for the front of my exhaust system (all of the weight of the front of the exhaust was on the flexpipe, probably why the first on cracked - in addition to being cheap) and used an old rubber mount to ensure no additional vibration.

Fourth and I beleive to be most important: I removed my cam position sensor due to an oil leak at that location (where the drops under my car were coming from). It was leaking because I suppose during the cleaning at the machine shop some material got removed and opened the hole a few thousands of an inch. I noticed that the stud in the cam was actually HITTING the cam sensor for some reason (damn shark racing, lol), it had shaved off a bit of the plastic housing. So I brush it off and get another sensor from the head in the basement. I install it with some RTV to stop the oil leak. I purchased a cheap $70 OBD II code reader from auto zone (works awesome, will definately get my money out of it). Checked the codes and got a cylinder 1 miss, random miss, fuel and air metering (2 codes 1124 and 1128), cam sensor high input voltage, and o2 sensor 1 bank 1 no signal.

The car ran wierd after running perfect all day yesterday, went down to 10-11:1 at idle and cruise, that is when the no o2 sensor signal came up. I figure it was a fluke since it is running so perfect now it must be working, however if the no signal code comes up again I will install the new universal sensor I have.

Anyway, I re-installed the non-damaged sensor and the damn high input voltage code popped up in about 30 seconds of run time. So I instantly figured it would be the stud hitting the sensor causing the higher voltage. So I purchased a couple of o-rings and spaced ANOTHER newer sensor (got a fuel rail, all 4 injectors, 2 cam sensors, and the sensor end of the first o2 sensor to solder to the universal bosch sensor I purchased OEM didn't work, had the same end as the harness, male to male, lol, - all for 10 bucks, is that cheap or what?). So with the o-rings spacing the sensor out about an 1/8", there are NO oil leaks and the CEL is still off after about 2 hours of driving.

So right now the car is running well and seems to pull a bit harder. There is no longer a short miss after shifts and the idle is beautiful. I just love the car right now. I wonder how long it will last.

I will likely install all 4 of the j/y injectors and the fuel rail because it would be easier I think. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to grab some b-12 chemtool.

BTW: I have been thinking about removing my high flow magnaflow cat if my CEL comes back on for the miss's, inevitable due to the lumpy idle (if it doesn't come on, I won't be taking the cat out because I love having no CEL). I wonder if there would be a gain and if the exhaust note would be too significantly changed? The car sounds sooo sweet and sick right now, complements all the time, so I don't want to hurt it and get a raspy buzz, maybe the 28" glasspack would be enough?

I just figure all the metal shards and shit that have gone through that from all my front exhaust work have maybe caused it to become a bit of restriction?? Think it would be worth it to remove? I am leaning towards no but I get bored and might do it for the hell of it.

Damn that was a long post, sorry, lol. cool.gif

 

Damn, no replies? Whatever.

First off, I installed the universal bosch o2 sensor in place of the stock beat to hell and stripped threads (don't ask) sensor. I welded in a new bung and did it right this time. No major changes to the a/f ratios, but they weren't bad before, I just wanted the security of knowing the engine was tuning itself using a NEW sensor you know?

I finally took the whopping 20 minutes to remove my fuel rail and injectors, which were dirty as hell, and install the junkyard parts. First, I cleaned up the junkyard fuel rail with some fine grit sandpaper and polishing compound, it isn't like a mirror or anything, but it is way better than it used to be and good enough for me.

Then I cleaned the oil residue off the tips of the injectors and cleaned the bodies as well, looks damn near brand new now.

Then I removed the stock stuff and installed the cleaned j/y stuff (I put some oil on the o-rings and re-used them, they were in damn good condition so hopefully the oil will rejuvinate them a bit). I also added two bottles of super tech fuel injector cleaner to about 1/6 of a tank. I want some strong shit going through them to make SURE they are clean, lol.

I started the car (only took about 6 seconds, fuel pump filled up the rail quick!) and ran it at idle a bit. Seems the same, maybe a little smoother. Then I took it for a drive to see if I gained any power and how it runs in a variety of throttle and load situations. The damn thing spun nearly half way through second! I got on it in first at 3k and it shot straight up to redline!! That is what I am talking about baby! LOL.

Also, the exhaust barely smells like fuel now, I suppose it has a smell that you would expect to come from an engine with so many modifications, lol. Now I just need to see how the next change of oil smells. I will likely do it at about 1500 or 2000 even with the mobil 1 supersyn. I like to run with clean oil to ensure safe engine operation and minimal tarnishing of engine internals due to dirty oil.

So the car seems to run better on and off the throttle, I just wish I had done this sooner.

It is so nice to finally solve these problems, now I just need to get it back on the dyno and see the TRUE results.

 

Good job fing02.gif

 

^^^Thanks man. smile.gif

 

Glad to hear its running good.

 

Thanks ham.

I dunno what else I can do now other than a standalone.

What do you guys think about the cat removal? I am leaning against it. I don't really want to pollute that much and the sound of my exhaust is so perfect. I was just wondering if you guys think I would gain power by removing it?

Thanks.

 

You might gain like 1-2 WHP if you removed the CAT, not really worth the 100 times more pollutants. LOL

 

^^^ It's also not 100x more pollutants. If it were, then you'd have solid waste in your CAT that would have to be emptied...