I think I have made some diagnostic progress guys. I changed my oil for the first time after the head swap, it had only been 1800 miles and it was BLACK and thin (there was oil slightly leaking from the pan (never happened before). Also, like I said before, it smelled very potently of fuel. Almost to the point of making you gag. This can't be good.

The header I have locates the first o2 sensor in the cylinder 4 runner and with the plugs out, only cylinder 4 smells like fuel, and the #4 cylinder spark plug as a bit more carbon on it than the rest.

Here is what I am thinking, the cylinder 4 injector is somehow fvcked up and it dumping in waaay too much fuel, which is unfortunately washing down the cylinder wall and getting into the oil. The ecu sees a rich condition and leans out the engine, decreasing the amount of time ALL the injectors are open, resulting in the lean as all hell idle. At WOT it can't reference the sensor, so the additional fuel from the fvcked up cyl. 4 injector causes the overall mixture to be excessively rich.

This diagnosis seems believable to me, what do you guys think? I suppose the in and out of the injectors could have somehow fvcked them up? I need to get my hands on some, too bad those are about the only damn thing I left in my old tib before they towed it. I will have to check the local junkyards, should be safe buying them from there right? What car's injectors will work? Accents or elantra's? Tibs are very rare in junkyards and they must have crushed my old one.

So tomorrow or tonight I am going to check the resistance of all of the injectors, though they will probably read fine. I am going to replace them anyway. What if it idles smooth and runs faster after this!! I would crap my pants, lol. This has to be it guys wish me luck. smile.gif

 

bets thing to do with the injector is to have them flow tested and cleaned that way you'll be 100% sure

for the front )2 sensor, just relocate it after the flex pipe,that way it will read all 4 cylinders and won't obstruc flow in the #4 exhaust tube,just screw in a wideband plug in it to block the hole (get the short one)

 

^^ I agree.

 

I wont waste my time having them cleaned and flow tested, I could prolly get a set from the local j/y for the same price or less so...

As for the sensor, I will have to do that one day, but you can't solder the o2 sensor wires, I relocated my rear sensor to behind the cat in my catback and I had to use crimp extenders, the solder wouldn't stick to the wires, I think they are made of silver or something.?

Relocating the sensor wont solve the cylinder 4 issue on its own, I still need an injector, but it isn't a bad idea anyway, a good weekend project.

I just need to get some gas for my oxy acetalene tanks now so I can weld in a new bung.

For the injectors, the stock cc is 240 or 245 right?

What would happen if I put 440's in?? Would in run or be rich as all hell?

 

well,if you use a set from a junked car you won't be 100% sure they all flow the same and all of them are in good shape,cheapest/safest way (appart of having a set flowed) would be to borrow a set fro ma good running car

you can solder the wires but here's the trick,don't cut the sensor wires,cut the car harness wires (they,re made from copper) and this will make changing a sensor at a later date much easier

stock injectors flow around 245-255cc/min from what i've tested so far,440 will be WAY overkill for a N/A set-up like yours

 

I am worried about junk injectors too, but don't want to purchase all new ones. I should only need one though, does anyone know how much they cost? I saw them for 88.00 each online.

I am going to start by checking the resistance of the injectors, then I am going to swap injectors from cyl. 1 to cyl. 4 and see if the a/f ratio stabalizes due to a proper reading from the front o2 sensor.

Mother fvker, I wish I was smart enough to yank the damn fuel rail and injectors from the other tib!!!

Thanks for the tips.

So, what do you think, how much power is available from a good tune running 13:1 across the board instead of 10:1 - 12.5:1?? 10, 20 hp?

Is it worth it to spend the grand on a good standalone?? Personal opinions please. Thanks again.

 

worst case, find a buddy with a tib close to you then swap them, it's really not long to do
i'm putting the finishing touch on the accent with the beta2 and TIC standalone, so far runs great,got greta power everywhere,and it seams to pull much harder then my own car with a piggy back (but the other car has much more go fast goodies and work in the engine then mine )
from what i'v seen whit my car, going from around 12:1 A/F versus 13.5:1 A/F i could get a decent feel o nthe street, so i guess there's good power gains to get only by fine tuning it

 

Where did your buddy get the standalone?

LOL, but I have no friends with a tiburon. They are somewhat of a rarity around here and those who do modify them turn them into serious rice burners. 02.gif

Thanks for the posts.

 

lol, if you want to make a trek down to greenbelt sometime after new years i would be up for letting you try out my injectors.

any car with a beta I engine would have what you need.

 

Thanks for the offer tibby, I greatly appreciate your generosity. I did something today that so far seems to make the car faster via the butt dyno, lol.

I adjusted my intake cam sprocket from 10 degrees advanced (crazy advanced huh? orignally the butt dyno said that was best) back to 0. I also took both cams from 5 degrees advanced to 3. I had to advance the sprocket 3 degrees due to the .017" thickness difference between the heads witht the milling and the beta II gasket.

Anyway, the idle is INSANE lumpy now, the tibby sounds MEAN as hell, haha! I love it. The powerband is smoother past 3500 and it seems to be quicker, I can spin in first if I stomp it, and in second for about a second or two on dry pavement in relation to a quick chirp.

I got to 95 mph to my buddy's driveway from the exit from my neighborhood when I usually only get to 85-90, so it seems to be pretty significant difference. Also, the smell of the exhaust at idle was weaker but still slightly apparant.

I think I was getting massive reversion due to the insane overlap and it was burning already burnt exhaust gas. I might actually try retarding the intake cam some one day if I feel like messing with it a bit.

I am more confident of power gains on the dyno and faster 1/4's now, although the track is closed until spring. I have thought about getting one of those G Tech pro's (Rice, or worth it??) I have heard good things.

I tested the injectors for resistance today and came up in spec. I am going to see how the car runs and go from there, I need some more driving time to really review the cam timing change.

I went to purchase an OBD II reader today from wal-mart, (I am a tech for their fleet of trucks so I get 10% off) and they were all sold out of both types WTF? Anyway, I will purchase one as soon as they are available as it will come in handy, if nothing else to erase the codes and get rid of the CEL every couple of days so I don't have to look at it, lol.

Thanks so much again for all of your continued support everyone, I would like to get to the dyno here in the next few months.