Race Wars This forum is for the members to discuss their races and wins...just remember that you might get called out if you say you beat a Lambo with your stock Hyundai!

Tdonnell's Dyno

Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:11 PM
  #21  
HyundaiKitCoupe's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 11,992
Likes: 0
From: Washington D.C.
Vehicle: Hyundai Tiburon FX
Default

damnit, why do you have to be so far away! lol who knows what's up there! OP you need to drive my car soon! i'll bring it by sometime you're up for hanging out. and t01 you guessed right i'm in south moco right on the edge of D.C. cool.gif .

tdonnell i would have thought you would put down at least 160 with the mods you have now (cam, 65mm and airram, and pulleys) so i'd definitely go for another run when it's colder. otherwise it's the first N/A dyno i've seen in a while. good stuff.

speaking of which, how many miles do you have on your engine?
Reply
Old Nov 6, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #22  
OdessitPashka's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,694
Likes: 0
Default

I'm always down for a hang out on weekends smile.gif Just hit me up man!
Reply
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #23  
tdonnell's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Default

I was treated very respectfully, though I don't know if they would be interested in a FULL ON hyundai project. Like I said, they do ALL german work, lol. Not that they won't do it but, you might want to get it done somewhere else. Also, 122k is pretty damn high to just throw a turbo on, you better rebuild it first.

I beleive it was a dynojet, there were only 2 rollers coming out of the floor, never did ask them.

I have 57800 miles on my engine.

About the 160 whp mark, like I said, I still need to put on the p&p head as well as tune the cam timing and air fuel ratio so... Hopefully next time I run it I can do it with a cold engine and get some tuning in. I am hoping to hit 165 whp and 140 ft. lbs of torque. Pretty modest estimates.

My fastest run with the current modifications is a 14.83 @ 92.71. Check out the 'who's the fastest' thread for more details and a pic of my slip. My highest mph is 93.65 so if I can get one perfect run with a low 60' and high mph, maybe I can get a 14.5 out of it. The above run was done with NO power steering components and an ICE cold intake manifold. Recently (after the intake sprocket install and some adjustments on the butt dyno) I pulled a 14.89 @ 92.71 mph with the same 2.28 60' as the above run. That was WITH ALL power steering components installed and working and a heat soaked intake so that sprocket must have done something. (the weather conditions for both nights were similar). That is why I am saying if I were to run slicks after my head I could get into the 13's with a 2.0 or 1.9 60'. Only thing I am worried about is not burning posi to heat both slicks up. Wouldn't they spin easier in the water though? I have an extra motor/trans/and axles at the house so breaking things isn't a big concern, lol.

Keep the questions coming guys. cool.gif
Reply
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 03:46 PM
  #24  
hamhead's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,722
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Default

With an open diff in the water they both should spin, although one will probably do a little bit more than the other.

Reminds me, you done a leakdown test to see how good your motor is at the moment? Would probably be a good idea.
Reply
Old Nov 7, 2006 | 05:59 PM
  #25  
tdonnell's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Default

Did that at school when I first got the car. Had like 4-5% leakage and around 200 psi of compression. The engine is in good shape, doesn't burn a drop in 3000 miles and there is nothing in my catch can (which is between my PCV and my IM) after 12,000 miles but a couple drops of oil. My old engine used to fill it up half way every 3k (it is one of those small DIY catch cans, nothing huge).
Reply
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 06:35 PM
  #26  
Zman's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,269
Likes: 0
Default

Hey T!
I won't get tired of saying what a good work you have done. Besides, all this experiment of yours has brought life to the site, specially to the N/A bunch of guys, demonstrating that you CAN achieve very respectable gains with N/A power (of course if you aim at 300HP NA is not the way to go...)

Just keep going man, keep going... I was getting a little tired of seeing the forums main activity based on the members selling there Tibs and some newbs with questions that have been answered many times before... this is what this forum is about, THANKS T!
Reply
Old Nov 10, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #27  
Denisst99's Avatar
http://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/images/vendor1.png
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
Default

looks like it liked the rich spot and the lean spot...
how was your sac set-upped?

nice numbers ;-)
Reply
Old Nov 11, 2006 | 09:35 AM
  #28  
tdonnell's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Default

Hello again everyone, I have been pretty sick lately so I haven't been around too much.

I installed the head yesterday. Boy, what a PITA it was to get running correctly! It wouldn't idle by itself and it sounded like a worked WRX H-series engine, lol. After some careful throttle control and about an hour of running, the ECU seemed to learn the curve ok, and the car does idle now. I have the settings for the cams exactly the same as before the head and the idle is lumpy as HELL now. This thing sounds SICK. I get compliments all the time, it's great. It used to idle smoothly, but I think the opened up bowls and bigger valves have led to the 'cammed up' sound, lol. I and all of my friends love the sound of the idle right now anyway, so I will just have to get used to the clutch chatter and additional interior vibration. sad.gif

The project took me exactly how much time I estimated, 10 hours. I also had to do a timing belt and I window-welded my final engine mount (the passenger side one, I had to take it off to do the belt so I figured I would use up the rest of my leftover window weld). I took a few breaks to eat as well.

The shop didn't port out the gasket edges at all on the exhaust side, and they just smoothed out the intake port about an inch into the port. Most of their time was spend on the combustion chamber and the bowls, as well as the valve job. Here are some pics you are all probably dying to see, lol.:

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead006.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead007.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead024.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead026.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead030.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead028.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead035.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead045.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead037.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead051.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/tdon...nderHead050.jpg

Remember that this was a junkyard head that was solid, dark brown under the valve cover, and the front of it was very corroded. They did a nice job cleaning it up. Their milling machine did a superb job. They said they only had to take off .007", so that makes it .017" closer to the pistons than before, but I think the compression ratio was evened out by them unshrouding the exhaust vavles a bit. You can see in the pics how the combustion chamber edge near the exhaust valves is no longer perfectly straight, they removed some material there. As you can see, they did a damn nice job of working the combustion chamber, you can probably make out the better/straighter flow area toward the intake valves compared to stock. I forgot my USB memory stick so I couldn't download the pics he took of the bowls and valves before assembly. That is where all of the work was done. They told me that it was bad to thin down the split area because it diffuses the air and hurts fuel atomization. Also, they said you get more power per dollar spent for better blending in the valve seat with the combustion chamber and the bowls/ports. They also said the stock ports were nice already and didn't need smoothing, although for the money I paid I was expecting a fully polished head. I wish I had pics of this because it was done beautifully. I will have to run up there and download the pics he took.

I will admit right now, that I desperately need a standalone to better tune this becoming beast. I don't think the stock ECU can handle it for much longer, it's getting too agressive, and I CAN'T REV HIGH ENOUGH. With the head, it seems to pull better in the high rpm range, and I believe that my power curve will be a little more verticle at redline now, meaning I could make more power past say 7000. I would love to have a redline at 7300.

I ran it at the track yesterday night with a full tank of gas (wasn't planning on running when I filled up in the morning, lol - Impulse run). I only ran a 15.077 @ 92.5 mph. WTF? I suppose it was due to the extra 100 lbs. of fuel and the HOT intake. I am taking a bag of ice next time. Usually though, my first run of the night is a 15, I get better with every pass. It was so damn crowded last night that I didn't feel like waiting again (sat in line for 2 hours). The temp was 60 F and humidity was like 76%. My 60' was my standard 2.28 lol.

OT and against the rules, but I got my top speed up to 140 mph last night. My car doesn't cut off at 130. I wonder why. It was at about 6550 rpm in 5th. I had had it to 135 before and figured my speedo could have been off, but it can't be off by 10 mph, and I calculated the gear ratio vs. rpm in 5th and came up with 139.75 mph. Any ideas??

The butt dyno says there wasn't much of a gain either, although my friends tell me it pulls much harder above 5000. I need to get it tuned better to really take advantage of the work, all the more reason to need a standalone. Anyway, please let me know what you think guys!
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #29  
zoned019's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,155
Likes: 0
From: Eau Claire, WI
Vehicle: 97 Tib
Default

gonna get it on a dyno?

it looks nice...wonder why you didn't feel much of a gain though?

tune that beast..
Reply
Old Nov 13, 2006 | 05:06 PM
  #30  
OdessitPashka's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,694
Likes: 0
Default

Your car could be running worse if it's not tuned, that's why you're not feeling any gains and got those shitty ET's. Get a stand alone and get it dyno tuned!
Reply


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:03 AM.