<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (JonGTR @ Oct 3 2006, 07:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>He said the fitting, just like the oil pressure senders heating up and falling off the head.
Never thought that the rail would actually snap in half. It really is a piece of shit. The aluminum is very fragile.</div>

eh, fitting/fuel rail whats the difference? wink1.gif What is that fuel rail made of, it looked like cast aluminum when I took mine off. If your making the new one from a solid block of aluminum it's going to be 100x stronger.

btw, when I said nathan I was talking about myself aka supercow. smile.gif

oh and also very impressive numbers on the stock engine. How long are you planning on running it that way? I'm curious as to how long it'll last with 14 psi. Most people around here have built motors and are running that or only a little more.

edit: lol, I just noticed on that dyno they put 16ish psi...

 

The rail is a solid billet aluminum piece from Accel that you need to drill holes out of and make mounts. It's much heavier, but it's SOLID.

I've been flooring it several times every day, and so far so good. I wouldn't be surprised if it lasted quite a while. Besides, it's a $300 motor. No biggie.

 

I would run a 11.5 AFR from 5000 to redline to help prevent any detination from a variety of different problems and it would help keep egt's a tad bit cooler.

If Jon can stay away from detination and extreme high egt's motor will hold up fine.

Richen up the Mixture JON and see how long this will last.

Unless your plan is just to keep uping the boost until it cracks a piston?

 

yah i think thats what hes doing, Jon just raise it a pound or two a week lol, every 2lbs throw it on the dyno.

that is if youve got advanced moneyoutofass syndrome.

 

I guess that's one way to do it..
you don't know if the turbo or engine is bad, so what do you do? don't get a new turbo, put in a whole new freaking motor! lmao.gif

 

The first thing I'm gonna do is get this spark thing fixed. I think the problem is 95% stock wires, and 5% stock coils. Since the fix will probably gain me another 10-15hp, I'm gonna see where I'm at after that and hold off on raising the boost.

 

I did a test last night on my friends wires vs. my stocker.

His tested at .7 and .9 ohms for the long and short wires.

My long stocker tested at 4 ohms!!!! sad.gif

 

the stock wires th3 suxor lol.

i will have to do a test on my PRD wires and see what they come out at. Are you still going with the individual coil DIS4 setup? i was talking to david about it, and i was pondering the idea of doing it. It should help a good amount, and i need to gap my plugs right, im freaking blowing out spark at ~8psi.

and zoned, why not throw a diff. motor in..

motor: ~300$

t3 60-1 turbo: ~700$ which looking into that turbo more, seems like a nice option, i just got my t3/t4 50trim for really cheap. what A/R is ur turbo jon?

so you can get two motors for the price of one turbo..

 

Bad news:
The new coils came in and DAMN, they're huge!!! They're too big to fit between the motor and hood. The only place I can mount them is by makng brackets to put 2 on each side of the motor, then run the wires inward.
The other option is to wait until I make a short runner manifold, which will drop the plenum 3" lower. Then I can mount the coils on top of the new plenum. But this will take a while to do. 02.gif


Good news:
I just bought a set of Accel 8.8mm wires. They were cheap and figured they'd be a lot better than stockers, so why not.

They cleared up 2-5th gear!! It's completely smooth now and accelerates great. 1st gear and part of 2nd are gonna need the new coils to be completely free of blowout, but I go through those gears in like a second, so its not a big setback. wink1.gif