Auto Vs Manual
#11
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
Either way a flat 9 is still like a flat 17 or 17.2 in the quarter. Which is still slow considering I ran 16.0 stock with a manual. tongue.gif And they are going to be slower mod for mod, no matter what you do... the automatics are geared way too weak to get any good track times out of them. And they weigh more than manuals. And they break easier it seems. <_<
#12
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (OdessitPashka @ May 12 2005, 09:26 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Either you got a factory freak or you can't calculate your times right.
Take your car to the track and see what you get for 1/4mi then we'll draw some conclusions about your car smile.gif
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Flat 9s are easy to hit for me. In fact, the route where I test it with my stop watch is slightly uphill.=)
I used to hit 9 1/2-10 second stock, now it's merely a second below that with just CAI.
Rawr.
Take your car to the track and see what you get for 1/4mi then we'll draw some conclusions about your car smile.gif
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Flat 9s are easy to hit for me. In fact, the route where I test it with my stop watch is slightly uphill.=)
I used to hit 9 1/2-10 second stock, now it's merely a second below that with just CAI.
Rawr.
#14
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Stock manual times are everywhere. The 0-60 range is anywhere from 8.0-8.6 and 1/4 times @ 16-16.5.
I'm yet to find an actual official auto RD 0-60 time.
I'm yet to find an actual official auto RD 0-60 time.
#15
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well, i think you and i will agree that a stock auto tib's official 0-60 time should be 9 flat tongue.gif
if it's true that i'll be running high-mid 16s still with i/h/e then i really might have to start some new plans...turbo would be the only way if that's the case. i'm not spending $1000 on N/A and staying in the 16s.
if it's true that i'll be running high-mid 16s still with i/h/e then i really might have to start some new plans...turbo would be the only way if that's the case. i'm not spending $1000 on N/A and staying in the 16s.
#17
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
You have to remember temperature, altitude, humidity, track conditions, etc. come into play. Once again I have to point out my low mileage, with my suspension being relatively new (My Tib had been on jackstands for three years, and the entire right side's spring/strut assembly was changed @ 9000 miles for the rebuild) and freshly alligned, I can pull some wicked 60' numbers for the power I'm putting out. Even if your engine put out exactly the same power as mine, your suspension may be worn down as to weaken your 60' times.
2k, you'll learn once you start adding mods that the numbers aren't as significant as your first mod. Adding an exhaust on a stock car will free up 8whp@6000RPM, and adding a header on a stock car may free up 8whp@6000RPM, but putting the two together doesn't make 16whp@6000RPM out of the exhaust setup. You would be happy with 11whp@6000RPM with the two mods together.
2k, you'll learn once you start adding mods that the numbers aren't as significant as your first mod. Adding an exhaust on a stock car will free up 8whp@6000RPM, and adding a header on a stock car may free up 8whp@6000RPM, but putting the two together doesn't make 16whp@6000RPM out of the exhaust setup. You would be happy with 11whp@6000RPM with the two mods together.
#18
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guesstimate me a time for an auto n/a tibby .. full exhaust, cai, headers, and lets say bbtb. if i got that and can't compete, then i'm getting an exhaust now and saving the rest for turbo. this summer i was planning on going for pure power, but u guys are crushin my dreams. lol. damn autos..
#20
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (hamhead @ May 13 2005, 03:19 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>Adding an exhaust on a stock car will free up 8whp@6000RPM, and adding a header on a stock car may free up 8whp@6000RPM, but putting the two together doesn't make 16whp@6000RPM out of the exhaust setup. You would be happy with 11whp@6000RPM with the two mods together.
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he says it all right there man, same concept.
probably less than 15.
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he says it all right there man, same concept.
probably less than 15.