its cause folks love their stereo junk

 

AJ, I'd seriously recommend another alpine, I'm hooked, if not that, go for one of the Premier Pioneer ones. Fantastic sound.

I miss my old Clarion too, it sounded great.

 

the reason i was looking kenwood was casue i have had good experience with them in the past but i know hands down alpine puts tthem all to shame i will have to see if my budy from on base can get me a good price or not if he can that will be what i go with other wise the kenwood is runner up



those of you who have heard the l7's and also the type r's tell me your opinion on both.

 

The setup is fine. Regardless of my personal feelings on your pick of companies, you NEED to get bigger speakers or a smaller bass amp. By bigger, i mean able to handle more watts. That amp is capable of blowing your subs across the room. turning down your gain does not protect you against static or line noise that will send every bit of RMS wattage through those speakers.

 

That amp is not capable of blowing those subs.

 

i think you need to look at the kicker l7 specs again cause that amp will be running two of them and it maxes out at 2x1000 watts at 2 ohms or 2x1200 watts at 4 ohms. the rms at 4 ohms is 2x600 watts. rms power for these speakers is 600 so it will match just right. if i missed something in my research please inform me cause i would hate to blow these things up.

 

DrivingTibNaked: I would argue the other way. I have always over-powered my subs in every installation I have done, run my sub to their peak performance, and have NEVER blown a sub. What most people do not realize is that distortion and underpowering causes blown speakers and failed audio components. Gettng a small amp say, 500 watt for a sub that is rated at 500 watts is asking for trouble. The amps MAX potential is 500 watts and to get all that power, the amp and the headunit are unually cranked, outputting signals that have much more distortion then if they (the amp and headunit) could be tuned to create the same power and spl at 1/2 to 3/4 volume. In all my experience, you should at least use an amp with 1.5 times the power of the sub. I normally try to double the power. When you do this you allow the amp to run at its optimal level of efficientcy while maintaining peak output to the sub. So, in this hypathetical case, I would use 1000 Watt amp and tune the amp to the subs, aiming for around 400-600 watts. Yes the amp is capabe of 1000 peak which may potentially blow the subs, but its NOT because of the 1000 watts of power, it would be because of the distortion created by pushing the amp beyond its nominal threshold. You buy an amp and tune it to the subs, NOT buy an amp that matchs the subs.

 

never thought of it that way

 

ok so there has been a change in plans with this


head unit alpine cda-9853
same amp as before lanzar vibe276
one 12" l7 in a custom built 3.5 cu ft vented box
dynamat the trunk.


this all should transpire this weekend if everythign goes to plan.

next on the chopping block
0gauge wire to
lanzar opticap50 5 farad cap to a distribution block splitin to two 4 gauge wires on to the vibe276the oth to the lanzar vibe416 which will power the audio bahns (replaced when more funds available)
ALSO second battery setup to keep it all powered up.

 

Not to barge in again but a second battery is a little overkill for that system. I mean its not a bad thing but really not needed. And that cap is 5 farad. which means its capable of handling some where around 5000 watts of power well. You wont be pushing near that. And 0 gauge is a good choice the bigger the better. Make sure not to skimp out on your ground wire use the biggest you can.

Also you need to decide weather you want to bridge the amp or not. Because if you want to you 1 channel to each voice coil on that 12 your gonna need dual 2ohm.
Also notice that AMP according to lanzar is NOT 2ohm stable bridged. So technicly no matter what you need a dual 2 ohm sub if you are switching too 1 12 inch.